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Old 12-31-2014, 10:32 PM
 
Location: San Antonio, TX
11,495 posts, read 26,879,364 times
Reputation: 28036

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Quote:
Originally Posted by johngolf View Post
Try www.appliancepartspro.com and snoop around. I did recently and saved a bunch of money repairing a washer (overfilling) myself.
I was going to suggest the same website. I've used their repair videos to fix my fridge, washer, and stove. Their shipping is pretty quick. They also have a repair forum where you can get advice to diagnose the problem.

The only thing that's not simple and easy about fixing the washer is trying to get the cabinet back on. It seemed like it took me forever, and then when I had to move my washer out during home repairs, one corner of the cabinet popped out of place again.
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Old 12-31-2014, 10:42 PM
 
2,645 posts, read 3,331,254 times
Reputation: 7358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Not_liking_FL View Post
I have a whirlpool duet in one of my houses and it works great. You can do bigger loads and save on water and electricity. What exactly is your problem? Sounds like user error to me. Btw, I can stop a load to add a missed sock if I need to.
User error? Please don't insult my intelligence just because I don't like my washing machine. This is hardly complicated machinery we're dealing with here.

Yes, you can stop a load. Then you stand and wait for the water to stop dripping down the door before you open it, unless you don't mind water on your floor. I do.

Mine won't spin the clothes dry if I put too many clothes in it. The salesman at the time said I could put 16 pairs of jeans in the washer at one time. I've never tried more than 5-6 pairs and even that is on the threshold of too many. The clothes won't get clean nor will they spin dry enough if I attempt a load anywhere near the size I used to be able to put in my old top loader.

As for savings, I didn't notice a dime difference on either my water or electric bill. Like I said, abandoning the dryer altogether and drying my clothes on a line is the only real savings I've found.

Other complaints? Mold and grime builds up on the door which has to be cleaned. I never had to clean my top loaders. For a while I had to buy Tide washing machine cleaner (specially formulated for front-loading HE washers) because the machine smelled like a decaying corpse. That improved once I cut the load size down to about half what I used to put in my old machine.

I also end up with clothes on the floor when I try to pull them out of the washer and put them in the dryer. My laundry room is the main walk-through to our garage, a high traffic area where I don't like clean clothes dropping on the floor. It's sometimes hard to avoid when your shirts are twisted together in a giant knot.

You're also forced to have the washer on the left because of the way the doors open. That has not been convenient in the two homes I've had this washer in. In both of them, the plumbing for the washer is on the right, the vent for the dryer on the left so they must criss-cross in the back. And the way the door opens in my laundry room, I would have preferred having the washer on the right (probably why the hook up is on that side as well). With a front-loader you can put it on either side of the dryer.

And then there's the basic quirk issues that are classic Whirlpool. The cycle complete buzzer sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. I've had an occasional error code pop up and I've had to reset the machine. I'll open the door after the load is done only to find my clothes soaking wet. I have to repeat the spin cycle for some inexplicable reason. All random and occasional. Not broken. Just...Whirlpool.

We bought the machines when this was new technology, more than 10 years ago, and at the time, they said top loaders would soon be a thing of the past. Obviously, I'm not alone in my hatred of this style of washer as the top loaders didn't go away. The day this thing dies on me will be a joyous occasion in my household.

But to each his own. I know plenty of people who love their front loaders, and others like me who don't.
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Old 01-01-2015, 09:23 AM
 
9,694 posts, read 7,394,892 times
Reputation: 9931
controller timers are not cheap, couple hundred dollar just for parts, find a used one at washer junkyard
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Old 01-01-2015, 11:01 AM
 
Location: Riverside Ca
22,146 posts, read 33,544,925 times
Reputation: 35437
I would get a opinion on repair. If it's a high end model it may be worth fixing otherwise I would go buy the base washer. the more electronic crap on them it seems the more they break
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Old 01-02-2015, 10:02 AM
 
870 posts, read 2,110,327 times
Reputation: 1080
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pruzhany View Post
How about giving us the model number so that you and us can go the Sears site and see what type of machine it is, pull up the manual and see if its direct drive or belt drive. Too much guessing going on here. If you are not a DIYr then expect around a $200 bill to repair it as long as its not the transmission/gearcase.

To give you an idea of what is involved, the following link may give you an idea:

Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

The model number is 110.16962503, but from the owner's manuals I found online and in my files, I'm not sure if it is direct drive or belt drive.

I can handle some basic repairs, but I am not a major DIY'r and I don't have many specialty tools.

Interestingly enough, the washer seems to be behaving these past few days. However, I need to wash some mattress pad and sheets this weekend, so we will see if that continues.
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Old 01-02-2015, 11:35 AM
 
Location: The Ranch in Olam Haba
23,707 posts, read 30,753,834 times
Reputation: 9985
Its a mechanical direct drive model. So it has nothing to do with the knobs as they are simply egg timers.

KENMORE ELITE Residential Washers Parts | Model 11016962503 | SearsPartsDirect

11016962503 KENMORE ELITE RESIDENTIAL WASHERS Manual | SearsPartsDirect

For what you are describing, I would look at the part as being the culprit:

KENMORE ELITE Residential Washers Brake, clutch, gearcase, ... Parts | Model 11016962503 | SearsPartsDirect


Replacement Coupler #285753A for KENMORE ELITE Laundry Appliances #11016962503 | SearsPartsDirect
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Old 01-02-2015, 01:20 PM
 
Location: Moku Nui, Hawaii
11,053 posts, read 24,035,149 times
Reputation: 10911
My DH has gotten me a "new" washing machine from the dump before. If the machine is at the dump and has water in it, then generally it is a small plastic part between the motor and the tub that has gone out. It's about $15 for the new part unless he harvests one from a different washer at the dump that had timer issues. Usually the machines are fairly new and in really good shape, otherwise he'd not bother with them.

We did just get a new washer/dryer matched set, though, several weeks ago from Craig's List. Someone got a front loader with matching dryer for themselves for Christmas and were selling their old appliances to save having to pay someone to haul them off. $100 for the pair and they were only about two years old.

So, there's lots of ways of getting appliances without putting out a lot of money. If it's a machine you like, then see if it's that little plastic part between the motor and the tub. Shouldn't be too hard to take apart and if it's broken before you start fixing it, then no worries if you end up breaking it, eh? It's always nice to not have to depend on other folks to fix stuff if you can.
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