Is this tub/shower plumbing roughed in correctly? (floor, how much, window)
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A family member helped me on this DIY part of the project and I hate to do this, but I want to get a quick check on the install and make sure we're "okay" before the cement board goes up. There are two valves supplying a tub filler, a traditional shower head and a hand held shower. The lower valve is a Kohler K304KSNA "Rite-temp pressure balancing valve" and the upper valve is a Kohler 728KNA "Master shower 3-way transfer valve."
The hot and cold feed into the rite-temp pressure balancing valve and then the shower head, filler and hand shower run off of the 3-way diverter. In most installations, I see the tub filler coming off of the lower valve (which in my installation is capped), and the 3 way diverter supplies the two shower fixtures.
My question is whether this installation is correct -- or at least acceptable? I don't want to have anything redone, but I will if necessary.
BTW, in order to accommodate the placement of the tub filler line, a single run of copper for the cold supply line was bent instead of using additional connectors to navigate around that pipe.
I don't see any reason why it won't work properly. You have H & C water into a mixing valve, which goes to a diverter to select one of the 3 outlets. The only possible drawback is you can only use 1 at a time.
One thing you might consider before you close it up is to cap all 3 outlets and turn the water valves on to check for leaks.
I don't see any reason why it won't work properly. You have H & C water into a mixing valve, which goes to a diverter to select one of the 3 outlets. The only possible drawback is you can only use 1 at a time.
One thing you might consider before you close it up is to cap all 3 outlets and turn the water valves on to check for leaks.
Thanks for the feedback. I didn't see a reason to feed two fixtures at one time since this is a simple 60x34 alcove tub/shower combo. The system was fully pressure tested yesterday with no leaks. Same for the tub. Now we're ready for tile...if I can only decide on what to order.
This valve is only capable of 5 gallons per minute of flow - if you try to use two outlets at once, the flow will barely keep up and filling the tub will take forever. Also, some pressure balanced valves don't like to work with multiple outlets due to the volume issue - you might get some chattering. I would have gone with a thermostatic valve as they work better with multiple outlets. There is a Kohler 1/2" Tstat that flows 11 gpm.
If I were you, I would figure out a way to connect your finish pieces to the outlets and see how they work. Use a 5 gallon bucket under the tub spout to see how much it fills in a minute.
If you stay with the pressure balanced, I would use the lower outlet on the existing valve to feed the tub with a diverter spout and cap that outlet on the 3 way valve.
I presume the ball valves will be accessible from the outside wall or from under the tub.
You dont have nearly enough framing to support backerboard and there is no blocking at all for attaching the tub to the wall.
How are you going to hook up your drain? I dont see an access door.
I would move the vent line to the opposite side. If you install any sort of door on the tub you are going to need that bay that the vent is in for blocking to support it. Or even a curtain rod.
I really recommend that you rip ia all out and replace it with PEX. It is going to be VERY noisy.
I don't understand the use of the two quarter turn valves that apparently will be covered by drywall/cement board. It looks like there is a commode on the opposite side of the wall. The shower head looks to be pretty high. What is the measurement? The stud on the left side of the hot/cold valves, what is the measurement from the back wall? Is it going to work with the cement board and apparent tile or will you run tile to the corner of the wall? If you plan on using an expanding shower curtain rod, a single stud will flex, I'd double up on it.
The only thing I see "wrong" is the drop ear elbow for the spout. Usually the spout has female threads- you'd use a regular elbow fitting there with a tail piece sticking out. The fitting would be sweated at trim out. Or, the tail piece is cut to length for a compression fitting spout- the more joints, the more likely the leak.
And I don't see a need for burying cut offs (1/4 turn valves) inside the wall- again; the more joints, the more likely the leak!
If it were my installation, there'd be a couple more joints from moving the shower head to the other side of the tub. I prefer to not stand in the water flow while making any adjustments to it and if the knobs are right under the shower head you HAVE to either stand in the water to adjust the temperature (which can be very unpleasant if it's too hot or really cold) or get out of the tub and drip on the floor while adjusting the temperature. Putting the shower head on the other end of the tub from the controls solves that problem.
Otherwise a bit of framing here and there such as for tub supports and for making a door on the other side of the shut off valves.
The only thing I see "wrong" is the drop ear elbow for the spout. Usually the spout has female threads- you'd use a regular elbow fitting there with a tail piece sticking out. The fitting would be sweated at trim out. Or, the tail piece is cut to length for a compression fitting spout- the more joints, the more likely the leak.
And I don't see a need for burying cut offs (1/4 turn valves) inside the wall- again; the more joints, the more likely the leak!
Almost anything will work and can be considered right. But after all the work, you dont want to have tiles falling off the wall when you lean against it after a hard days work and the backerboard flexes.
And you for sure dont want the wife to cut your balls off because she cant sleep thru all the noise of the water rushing thru that copper pipe at 4 AM.
He probably has the cutoffs so He can do the job while still living in the house. Hard to live there if the water is off. Otherwise there would be water pouring out everywhere.
I ve done many (100's)and learned from experience.
But I agree with the threaded drop eared elbows. Most tub spouts these days are the push over copper type and many of them you cant even get on if anything larger than the diameter of the 1/2" copper tube sticks out of the wall.
Another issue seems to be the tub drain itself. It looks to be too far away from the wall for the drain line to attach. I usually do about 1.5 inches or so from stud face. It seems to be much further but it can be a issue with the angle of the photo or they type of tub..
@Everyone. This is a 90 year old home that was flipped by investors in 2008. So of course you always find oddities when you get into these projects.
SHUTOFFS: There was no shutoff for the tub. We installed them and an added an access panel in the the linen closet behind the plumbing wall. You don't see it because it wasn't there yet.
DRAIN: Access had to be cut into the ceiling of the basement bathroom. The drain was adjusted from 1.5" to 2" and fitted with a small amount of inconvenience. The original drain was glued, and guess what...
FRAMING: I'm not sure why all the concern about this, since its an unfinished project. The framing is standard 16CC, likely built in 2008. The alcove is exactly 36D x 61L x 96H, leaving plenty of room for whatever backer installation the tiler wants to install. That will be up to them.
@Robr, we tested the pressure and it was fine. The tub fills a little faster than the old filler.
@Trapper, see above, the access panel was yet to be cut into the closet. The rod will be built-in and mounted into the framing. I may also decide to build an open transom window or arch to frame the alcove and hide the built-in rod. The shower head is at 6'5", which is actually a little low for tall peoples, but dictated by the vent.
@KB, thanks. For the remainder of this job, I'll be bringing in a professional tiler and plumber (subs that a friend uses on his job sites) and any issues with that spout configuration should be fixable. The other issue is that the plumbing is not perfectly centered, so it needs to be shifted 1/4"-1/2" in either direction.
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