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That's not true. Window units sit in a can that is installed first, then the unit is slid into the can. You can pull the unit out of the can any time you want.
The problem is unit life span. If you have to replace it, you will never find another unit to fit the can, so you will have to re-work the opening. Technological progress means making the opening smaller. That means fancy trim work, or an ugly install.
Those are the ones that can go either way and cost much more. He wants to use the $200 window only unit.
They make "through wall" units that Look similar to window units but are different in design (since most windows are only ~2" thick and most exterior walls are 6" on the minimum). So long as you're buying one that's designed for wall installation, you'll be fine. Having lived with one, you'll want to make sure you cover it through the winter, inside and out (I built a foam box from 1" insulation for the outside).
A little more money up front but a LOT less money to run are mini-splits (looking on Amazon, $750 for a mini-split vs $530 for the best selling through-wall with the same BTU rating). There you're only drilling a small hole through the wall (heh, comparative to a through-wall AC unit) and getting twice, or more, the energy efficiency.
Knowing what I now know, I'd pick the mini-split every day of the week, all year long. Not even a hesitation or thought of going for a window or wall unit.
Sorry to sound dumb but what is a mini-split and why would I want one? It's 115 here today and I am having nightmares about my electric bill! Thanks!
We bought a similar one to that to use in a family room and it was so loud that we moved it out to the garage where we used it a couple of times. It is back in its box. Someday, somewhere, we might have a way to use it again, perhaps in an outdoor shed or something, but it is so loud and annoying that it is hardly worth it.
I would never recommend a portable unit. Fans work better, are quieter, don't need venting, cost less to operate, etc.
The wall ones have a frame that keeps water from coming inside when it rains and protects the AC to make it last longer. I had a neighbor who put a small window AC thru the wall and it leaked when it rained so he had to build a wooden frame around it on the outside. That's not good because it will block the vents and cause the AC to fail sooner. Spend the extra money and get a wall AC.
Of course you can use a window AC in a wall installation. They work fine. I have 2 such installations now -- one in our Maine home, and one in our TN home.
The size issue is mostly not an issue. Window units always have to fit windows, so cut a slightly bigger wall opening, and line it well with soft foam, covered with dark plastic (trash bags and duct tape work great for this and really don't show at all). Then removing the unit or replacing it is easy, by adjusting the platic. These other folks are talking about custom installations, which cost $$$.
To those worried about their electric bill when the temperature goes through the roof, I have this advice: don't plug it into the grid power. Seriously. We use a small, quiet generator like a Honda or Yamaha (2-3,000 W is all you need for most AC units) and then you measure your cost in the form of gallons of gas (which you can control) rather than kWh from the electric company (which you can't). I'm a big fan of taking personal control of most things in my life.
BTW, did you know that you do not have to install an AC unit on an exterior wall for it to work? Indeed, there is absolutely NO reason why it has to have one end on the outside. It will work just as well on an interior wall. You just need to provide a method of collecting the condensation water that drips from the side that would project from the window. This is easy to do with a bucket, as long as you empty it regularly. I used to have a setup like this at my workshop.
They're a bit off on pricing in that article (the price gap is much closer currently), but otherwise it's a good primer. Mitsubishi is probably the biggest brand in terms of use, if you want to use your search engine for a little further self education.
Window ac units work perfectly well through a wall.......I've done it 3 times. When we lived in Pennsylvania, I cut a hole in one downstairs outside wall, framed it in, and put a 17,0000 btu ac unit in it. I also installed a 10,000 btu unit upstairs to cool the bedrooms. Worked great and cooled the whole house.
I also have a 5,000 btu unit in the wall of my shop office, venting to the shop (which we keep the garage door open on so the extracted heat escapes.)
Just make sure you mount it on a slight downward angle so the water it generates drains outside, not inside.
Window ac units work perfectly well through a wall.......I've done it 3 times. When we lived in Pennsylvania, I cut a hole in one downstairs outside wall, framed it in, and put a 17,0000 btu ac unit in it. I also installed a 10,000 btu unit upstairs to cool the bedrooms. Worked great and cooled the whole house.
I also have a 5,000 btu unit in the wall of my shop office, venting to the shop (which we keep the garage door open on so the extracted heat escapes.)
Just make sure you mount it on a slight downward angle so the water it generates drains outside, not inside.
Don
That "slight downward angle" should be 3° (degrees)
I'm the OP and I had this typed up.
Low 90’s till Fri. then 100 & sat. & sun. 100
My water cooler only the fan part works anymore and tonight in the cooler evening air it cools enough that I just turned it off. But not anywhere near good in the daytime hot weather.
So next week I’m going to be hot.
So I just ordered a Keystone 12,00 btu through the wall air conditioner good for 550 sq. ft.
My living, dining area, kitchen, and hall, all one room as far as the air conditioner is concerned is 436 sq. ft.
Ordering from Walmart went smooth except for a brief password hassle. It will be here next Tue.
I sort of enjoy researching things like this and I really checked it out, I got the best one for me.
I was thinking of getting a window one but a long time ago I realized not to try to reinvent the wheel, which means just do what everyone has found is the way to do it so this is a correct through the wall unit.
I also ordered with it a sleeve a metal enclosure required for through the wall, so now if there ever is a need to remove it I can easily. With a window one that would be difficult.
It will take me awhile to cut a hole in the wall and frame it in but I shouldn't need any outside help.
Now I’ll never have to go up on the roof again except one more time to drain the old cooler and remove the pads.
Cost 523.33 + 47.28 Calif. Tax man I hate Calif. Government, total 572.61
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