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Looks like regular plywood to me. 1 1/2" screws should be fine, but you can always use 2", but I wouldn't go longer. If you look for deck screws that have little nibs under the screw head, they will self countersink a little better than others. #8 screws should be OK, but #10 will be a little stronger. I wouldn't use smaller than #8.
I prefer to use square drive screws in my stuff, or the star drive screws. You have much fewer stripped heads than with phillips heads.
Just follow the lines of the other fasteners on the floor.
If you put screws every 6" you should have a VERY secure floor.
If you are going to be driving a lot of screws, I suggest you use an impact driver. It will go much faster. If you don't have one, or access to to, a regular screw gun will work OK.
You might need two 5# boxes of screws for 1100 SF, maybe more. I would buy two 5# boxes, and go back if you need more.
Agree completely on the square or star (11) heads. Deck mates are fine for subfloors and an inch 1/2 will suffice
Sheet rock screw with wide thread for grabbing. Any kind of wood screw, really.
Make sure the heads are 1/16" below the surface.
Every 6 inches for tile, every 12-16" for wood. Says my contractor guy.
It's NOT particle board!
There's a huge difference between particle board and OSB- without going into a long dissertation, let's just start with particle board is NOT structural OSB is.
Yes, confirmed today that it is regular plywood. The reason it looked a bit light in the photo is because it had been colored by paint spray from when they painted the walls/trim.
We gave the screws to the installer and he seemed totally comfortable with them and agreed it was a good idea to use them.
Thanks to all -- we had what we needed so he could get started this morning. Can't wait for the new floors!
If your wood installer is going to put wood down over that subfloor ,I would look for another installer. That subfloor is fine for carpet, not so much for hardwood. You need to go over that subfloor and screw down any and all areas that are loose or squeek while walking over the subfloor. If the subfloor is in good shape you can get away with 1/4 inch plywood but more then likely use 3/8" plywood as the underlayment for your engineered wood floor. Install the plywood with ring shank nails every 2" along the edges and 6" in the field of each sheet of underlayment. That floor needs to be smooth and level for your wood. I use an 8' level to check for bad spots on the subfloor so I can sand or level areas before installing my plywood underlayment.
Wood floors are very expensive, so please put in the extra time to make sure you underlayment is the best it can be. After installing wood floors for many a home builder over 25 years. I can say, I never saw a subfloor that I would install wood over without a plywood underlayment.
Oh geez, regarding the photos I cannot say but if it was more the former or the latter. It did look like what I think of as regular plywood but with some lettering on it. He is currently putting in the extra screws. Thanks again for the comments -- I certainly hope all is well without the extra layer of plywood. It seems to have a lot better feel (the prefinished on the subfloor) than the engineered wood on the concrete slab that the builder put in.
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