Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
If you have enough threads on the end of the bolt you can thread two nuts on it and then tighten them together. As long as they are tighter that the original nut you can use wrench on them as your counter rotation.
A dremel which was already mentioned is also really good tool for this, they have little cut off wheels. Lot's of precision and as long as there is washer you should be able to cut it off cleanly.
If you have enough threads on the end of the bolt you can thread two nuts on it and then tighten them together. As long as they are tighter that the original nut you can use wrench on them as your counter rotation.
A dremel which was already mentioned is also really good tool for this, they have little cut off wheels. Lot's of precision and as long as there is washer you should be able to cut it off cleanly.
The two nuts sounded good. But, with the space taken up by the two nuts; would you gain that much since you have to eventually remove them? On the other hand it might be a big enough gain to get the saw, chisel or Dremel blade under the original nut?
The two nuts sounded good. But, with the space taken up by the two nuts; would you gain that much since you have to eventually remove them?
Once you break the original nut free after a few threads you might be able to just turn it off by hand or hold the bolt with some pliers. It's that initial few turns of the nut that is the hard part, it's all gravy after that. A little bit of penetrating oil never hurts either.
Quote:
On the other hand it might be a big enough gain to get the saw, chisel or Dremel blade under the original nut?
One of the issues there is once you loosen the bolt it has a tendency to bounce around especially with Sawzall. Sawzall is not something I'd be using for this job out of concern for damaging the toilet.
Once you break the original nut free after a few threads you might be able to just turn it off by hand or hold the bolt with some pliers. It's that initial few turns of the nut that is the hard part, it's all gravy after that. A little bit of penetrating oil never hurts either.
One of the issues there is once you loosen the bolt it has a tendency to bounce around especially with Sawzall. Sawzall is not something I'd be using for this job out of concern for damaging the toilet.
Actually, if you could get the nut up high enough, you could possibly get a good grip with vice grips on the bolt. So it is a possibility. Many times the corrosion gets in the threads. It might even help to chase the threads with a thread cutting nut and the penetrating oil first; before you try to loosen the nut.
I would think there could be some real bouncing problems with the Sawzall. I would rather try a variable speed jigsaw with the metal cutting blade first; but that could still jump around.
The old toilet I just removed was about 40 years old and is on the back of my pickup for a trip to the dump! Time to embrace the 21 Century on 1.6 gallons!
The old toilet I just removed was about 40 years old and is on the back of my pickup for a trip to the dump! Time to embrace the 21 Century on 1.6 gallons!
If the toilet is going to dump I'd be reaching for the Sawzall right off the bat.
Toilet bolts are brass/bronze- corrosion shouldn't be a problem.
The problem is most likely the flange- it's either broken/cracked or wore out to the point that the bolts won't "lock" when unscrewing them.
Well, they should be. I have seen a few ordinary steel ones in my time.
OP, I think the tool you are looking for is a nut splitter.
The bolts that hold the tank to the bowl should also be brass/bronze or stainless. Most "kits" have ordinary steel bolts. You want to put in good rubber washers so this joint does not leak. I have seen very small leaks that sent a pencil-lead sized stream of water down the back side of the bowl, got the under-flooring wet, not a pretty sight. You might consider applying some of the "leak proof" roofing compound to the bolt on the inside of the bowl, before you finish installation and fill with water.
Yeah, apply some anti-seize to the toilet bolts that hold down to the wax gasket. You will thank yourself years down the road.
Don't use calking around the joint where the toilet bowl sits on the floor. If (when) the wax gasket starts to leak, you want that water to leak out and be seen, not be confined under the loo.
Seriously people; this isn't rocket science! We're talking about TWO BOLTS! Use the best products available. Make sure the flange is in good condition (no cracks)- or replace it with a metal flange (this is all I spec). Make sure the bolts/nuts are brass/bronze and there will be no need for "anti-seize", grease, oil, or nylock nuts. Water, or even "miss-aiming" men will corrode the bolts.
How you get the old ones off is... well, that's up to you. But I certainly wouldn't recommend an air chisel. A small hacksaw will certainly cut the old bolts loose; then you can start over with "proper" hardware.
Well, they should be. I have seen a few ordinary steel ones in my time.
OP, I think the tool you are looking for is a nut splitter.
The bolts that hold the tank to the bowl should also be brass/bronze or stainless. Most "kits" have ordinary steel bolts. You want to put in good rubber washers so this joint does not leak. I have seen very small leaks that sent a pencil-lead sized stream of water down the back side of the bowl, got the under-flooring wet, not a pretty sight. You might consider applying some of the "leak proof" roofing compound to the bolt on the inside of the bowl, before you finish installation and fill with water.
Yeah, apply some anti-seize to the toilet bolts that hold down to the wax gasket. You will thank yourself years down the road.
Don't use calking around the joint where the toilet bowl sits on the floor. If (when) the wax gasket starts to leak, you want that water to leak out and be seen, not be confined under the loo.
I forgot about nut splitters! Thank you. Great information and just in time before I grouted the new toilet to the floor!
Seriously people; this isn't rocket science! We're talking about TWO BOLTS! Use the best products available. Make sure the flange is in good condition (no cracks)- or replace it with a metal flange (this is all I spec). Make sure the bolts/nuts are brass/bronze and there will be no need for "anti-seize", grease, oil, or nylock nuts. Water, or even "miss-aiming" men will corrode the bolts.
How you get the old ones off is... well, that's up to you. But I certainly wouldn't recommend an air chisel. A small hacksaw will certainly cut the old bolts loose; then you can start over with "proper" hardware.
I know it was only TWO NUTS! But look at all the problems two nuts can cause!
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
).
