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Here I found the link I was talking about Save America's Windows - Index page
check out the forums there, John Leeke is an expert in window restoration.
Try typing into google, Saving America's windows. It should bring up a website about restoring and repairing wood windows, it is much better to restore them and add storms than to replace with newer windows which are junk.
That's nonsense. Modern windows are many times better than antiques. They are more energy efficient, more durable, don't freeze up in the inside, can be glazed with low-e glass that prevents sun fading inside, and operate many more years without needing repairs. It's the old windows that are junk.
Try typing into google, Saving America's windows. It should bring up a website about restoring and repairing wood windows, it is much better to restore them and add storms than to replace with newer windows which are junk.
So, I’m kind of desperate here because I don’t know if i’m getting jerked around. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I had some hedges removed and discovered three windows (all wood) with extensive dry rot but only on the bottom of the frame. I had someone dig out the rotted wood and it does basically go all the way to the glass in some places.There is no indication of wood rot on the sides of the frame or on the inside of the house. I’ve only been able to get one person (contractor the painter recommended) to even come out to look. Basically everyone I’ve talked to wants to build a new window rather than repair. I’m wondering why the bottom piece of wood just can’t be removed, treat the area with copper green and replace with a new piece of wood. This seems to be something they do with all-wood windows on historic houses. I’ve been told these are high quality windows and they have a metal grid inside that is no longer available so that complicates things. My googling came across an article that said wood windows can be repaired but the money is in replacing not repairing. Anyone have experience with this?
People who only replace windows will only offer to replace them. I have wooden sash windows in a value house I recently bought, unfortunately most have been painted shut, and the joints in the sash have come loose around a few of the panes (one large pane per sash).
The joints are a finger-locking kind, I imagine glued together when they were crafted. To find someone to "repair" this would require a new piece be cut and finger edge sawn to match. Very tedious work. Since replacement windows can be had for $200, it's no wonder tradesmen want to replace, replace, replace.
This is the one with the most damage. Painter and his contractor said wood sill was fine, just needed a good sanding, etc. that the painter can take care of. Do you think the damaged wood can be removed and a new piece inserted without removing the window?
That looks nasty. But just a quick removal of that piece and disinfectant spray, a new piece and paint------who would need a contractor? Just a small job to keep yourself amused for a short afternoon.
Just a small job to keep yourself amused for a short afternoon.
ahahaaaaa...little carpentry humor there !
Sash is going to have to come out, the glass unit removed, a new bottom rail with mortise on both ends (the square hole for the square tenon to go into), most likely both side stiles (vertical side pieces) will have to be reconstructed as well since rot also shows on that right hand one exposed. And that assumes the side stiles can successfully be removed from the top rail...they were most likely glued in and won't want to come apart......so basically, a whole new sash is probably the job.
GOOD day's work for someone with the skill and tools to do this. Say $40/hr (bare minimum) x 8hrs, plus materials and that sash is going to cost you $350-400 bucks. Might be worth it for a historic 18th century window.
Hey OP - feel free to message me if you'd like. I know a fair number of window restorers. We can find you a person to give you an honest assessment but need to know your general area.
No offense to one of the posters on this thread, but pretty sure I remember one of your posts about your triple paned windows that you never open. You like airtight stuff that doesn't move. Some of us like our original wood windows that open and close.
Windows are pretty simple. Wood, glass, putty and glazing points. I have a friend who's rebuilt windows in your condition.
Sash is going to have to come out, the glass unit removed, a new bottom rail with mortise on both ends (the square hole for the square tenon to go into), most likely both side stiles (vertical side pieces) will have to be reconstructed as well since rot also shows on that right hand one exposed. And that assumes the side stiles can successfully be removed from the top rail...they were most likely glued in and won't want to come apart......so basically, a whole new sash is probably the job.
GOOD day's work for someone with the skill and tools to do this. Say $40/hr (bare minimum) x 8hrs, plus materials and that sash is going to cost you $350-400 bucks. Might be worth it for a historic 18th century window.
Heck, retail grease monkey labor is billed at $100/hour, and I wouldn't expect anyone employed by a contracting service to bill any less.
Like the above guy said... depends on the value of the house.
Hey, these are not historic or even "antique" windows, these are recently manufactured (within the last 40 years or so) double pane windows. (OP, if I am misinterpreting your photo and description, please chime in.) So honestly, if you can find a suitable replacement I would do it, since it sounds like you don't have the skills and tools to do the work, nor do you have someone identified who can do it.
OP, it's not clear - is this a double hung sash window that can be opened, or is it a fixed window? If a fixed window, it would be easier to effect an imperfect but functional repair.
I would NOT support using putty or similar substances. I would use only wood, and preferably pressure treated wood. The various putties and such seem to be a quick and durable solution but in a few years they will invariably fail in one or another way.
If it were my house I would repair that myself. You can do a darn good imitation of the special molding profiles used in mortise and tenon window sash construction with block planes and coping saws, etc., since you are only talking about making one piece (or maybe three). If you are making multiple pieces, or paying someone by the hour to do it, then you're talking about routers and shapers and molding planes and all that.
Wow, can't believe people are still chiming in! I so appreciate all your replies. turf3, these are casement windows that crank open on one side. It appears that the rail on only one side of each window is affected. Two are the fixed side and one is the operable side. The contractor that started the job said he would cut out a couple of inches of the side stiles where he thought the rot may have penetrated and replace all the sills. They are not historic windows (30 years) and I am open to any method of getting them fixed. There is a metal grid inside the dual pane glass that would have to be removed and reused as it was proprietary to the original manufacturer (no longer in business). It would definitely be easier to repair if possible. Other than this issue, these windows have really held up well.
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