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Old 12-05-2008, 08:15 PM
 
Location: On the plateau, TN
15,205 posts, read 12,070,010 times
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Driller, not to hijack the thread, but....

1. Why would one need a new well at 50 years old...

2. How would homeowners insurance pay for a new well...
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Old 12-05-2008, 08:55 PM
 
24,832 posts, read 37,337,915 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
Driller, not to hijack the thread, but....

1. Why would one need a new well at 50 years old...

2. How would homeowners insurance pay for a new well...
Wells drilled 50 years ago are metal. With time, the casing will get holes in it. In my area it is about 30 years. Home owners will pay for many reasons. Lighting hits, or the well head being damaged car hit.

The new PVC well with last a lifetime if property constructed.
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Old 12-05-2008, 09:00 PM
 
Location: On the plateau, TN
15,205 posts, read 12,070,010 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driller1 View Post
Wells drilled 50 years ago are metal. With time, the casing will get holes in it. In my area it is about 30 years. Home owners will pay for many reasons. Lighting hits, or the well head being damaged car hit.

The new PVC well with last a lifetime if property constructed.
Thanks, I thought it had something to do with the well it self and was confused....

My well is in rock and the casing only goes 20 feet....
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Old 12-05-2008, 09:27 PM
 
24,832 posts, read 37,337,915 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
Thanks, I thought it had something to do with the well it self and was confused....

My well is in rock and the casing only goes 20 feet....
The ground changes. In Michigan we have to set 27 foot of casing by law. LOL I have 40 foot screened wells that are 100 foot from 450 foot rock wells.
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:56 AM
 
Location: DC Area, for now
3,517 posts, read 13,259,891 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
Then you have a leak from the pump back and down the well to the foot valve in the well.

You need to find the well and fix the leak before you end up with no water because of a loss of prime and then you won't be able to prime the pump. And since the pump only runs for 30 seconds to build pressure up to 50, it is short cycling and that will kill the pump. You need to check and adjust the air pressure in the tank to 29-28 psi with no water in the tank. When you drain the tank, you may not be able to reprime the pump, so fix this water leak first.

This has nothing to do with the pressure switch.
Now that you mention this, yes, it could well be hole in the pipe. Licensed plumbers do this work in my area and will tell the owner if the well is shot and they need to drill a new well. Short cycling pumps may also be an indication of needing a new pump.
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Old 12-06-2008, 10:30 AM
 
24,832 posts, read 37,337,915 times
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The problem with trying to guess the problem on a forum is we do not know enough. I talk to people on the phone all the time. They generally do not know much about their system. I can check state records while I talk to them. They are VERY surprised. It does not take much know a 50 year old well is on borrowed time. The pipe with a leak could be 200 foot in the well. Or 20. With out the log, how do you know??? That is where a driller can have an educated guess as to what is typical for the area.

Last edited by Driller1; 12-06-2008 at 10:58 AM..
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Old 12-06-2008, 02:40 PM
 
Location: Wherever I park the motorhome
286 posts, read 1,481,417 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tesaje View Post
Now that you mention this, yes, it could well be hole in the pipe. Licensed plumbers do this work in my area and will tell the owner if the well is shot and they need to drill a new well. Short cycling pumps may also be an indication of needing a new pump.
Short cycling is not caused by a pump, it is caused by incorrect air pressure and volume in the pressure tank. That is the only cause of short cycling.

The only cause of a pump running when no water is being used is a water leak.
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Old 12-06-2008, 02:51 PM
 
Location: On the plateau, TN
15,205 posts, read 12,070,010 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
Short cycling is not caused by a pump, it is caused by incorrect air pressure and volume in the pressure tank. That is the only cause of short cycling.

The only cause of a pump running when no water is being used is a water leak.
I had a bad check valve in my submersible pump and it was short cycling. Pulled the pump and installed an external check valve.....
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Old 12-06-2008, 03:28 PM
 
Location: Wherever I park the motorhome
286 posts, read 1,481,417 times
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Driller1, out of 50 states, the odds of this well being in your state of MI is slight at best.

Do you disagree with my troubleshooting saying the person has a water leak in the pipes or foot valve back from the jet pump to the foot valve in the well?

If you do tell us your thoughts of the cause of that recalling that it is impossible to be caused by a hole in the casing or because of the age of the well or by the switch or the pressure tank.

Prices? In 18 years I replaced many drop pipes and submersible pumps and know my costs of materials and the average time it takes etc.. I didn't charge time and materials which I suspect you do. I gave a solid price on the phone and ate any losses; there were very few. I carried all the materials on my pump truck and rarely had to leave a job to go for parts. You too could do it that way if you wanted to.

And I get tired telling you this over and over but, as in the vast majority of states, I was not required to be licensed.
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Old 12-06-2008, 03:33 PM
 
Location: Wherever I park the motorhome
286 posts, read 1,481,417 times
Reputation: 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bones View Post
I had a bad check valve in my submersible pump and it was short cycling. Pulled the pump and installed an external check valve.....
The pump was coming on because the check valve in the pump's outlet was seriously leaking.

The length of time between pump runs had nothing to do with it. You had a no water leak caused cycling.
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