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When my washing machine is draining, water keeps coming out around the drain hose.
The way it's installed is the drain hose is basically shoved into the drain pipe that is at the back of the machine. If you take the cold water hose for the washing machine and shove that into the drain pipe and run it, it never overflows. But it does if you put the washing machine's drain hose in there.
What gives??? I am running out of clothes and hoping I will not have to call a plumber! Thanks!
2. Drain line height is too low. Should be say 1 foot higher that washer back
3. Combo of 1 & 2 coupled with higher volume than your facuet can deliver.
Try this solution first, wrap the top of the drain line with duct tape to seal the connection with your drain line from the washer. This does have a negative in it removes the vent aspect of the open drain connection but in many cases will work until / if the conditions of 1 or 2 are eliminated.
Ideally you should have something along the line of 1 & 2 as the working conditions. The drain must be able to accomodate a bunch of gallons pretty quick. The larger size line is critical. Also a factor is how long that drain line is until it reaches a main drain, especially in the horizontal part of the run or increases in size. As a general rule you can only go 48 diameters horizontal. Lines smaller than 2" have very poor "Drainability". Increasing a 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" to 2" increases the drainability of the system 16 times. It is a gravity drain system.
As a standard rule I never run small lines (1-1/4" or 1-1/2") any distance. Like under sinks, etc, only in the vertical, immediately increase to 2" on the change to the horizontal even tho it is permitted to continue in the horizontal.
The tape duct fix can work in many situations. It causes the drain line to be pressurized via pump pressure in a sort of modified non-gravity drain mode. Works a lot better if built as I described above, all parts of the drain line 2" with less than 8 feet of horizontal run to the main line.
Hmm...my contractor thinks he can fix it by seeing if the vent is clogged. I already put half a bottle of very serious drain opener down there and it has been "blown" out with an air compressor and a shop vac.
The contractor says if he cannot get it working right by unclogging the vent then he will have to tear into the wall to see what the problem is, and/or go under the house. This house sat unoccupied for months after the previous owner moved into a nursing home then died shortly thereafter. It's been unoccupied since at least January or February of this year. So far this is the only major plumbing issue. I am kind of pissed that the home inspection did not find it. The dishwasher runs fine, the kitchen sink drains fine, the toilets work, the bathroom sinks work, but the master bath does drain slowly. Some liquid plumber should take care of that I would think. Always worked at the old place!
I will pass your suggestions on to the contractor; if he cannot get it working tomorrow then I will have to use my home warranty and go to mom and dad's to do laundry. This stinks!
That duct tape fix works even where there is zero vent line. Tons of installations have zero vent connected into the washer drain. Common in older houses it is hack and smash. Usually I assume there is none.
Just try it yourself. Wrap that connection in duct tape, give it a try.
What size is the drain line?
Standard fix in lots of old rentals. Done it many times. Never had it really fail. Hate to tell you the number of jury rigs you see in that application. Basically if it will take a lil pressure it sort of gets the job done.
Nothing like taking the problem in your own hands. Don't over engineer any jury rig. Don't be too limp wristed. Might even blow out an plug. Nothing like adventure.
That duct tape fix works even where there is zero vent line. Tons of installations have zero vent connected into the washer drain. Common in older houses it is hack and smash. Usually I assume there is none.
Just try it yourself. Wrap that connection in duct tape, give it a try.
What size is the drain line?
Standard fix in lots of old rentals. Done it many times. Never had it really fail. Hate to tell you the number of jury rigs you see in that application. Basically if it will take a lil pressure it sort of gets the job done.
Nothing like taking the problem in your own hands. Don't over engineer any jury rig. Don't be too limp wristed. Might even blow out an plug. Nothing like adventure.
I do not have any duct tape, just electrical tape and painter's tape that is not very sticky. Will either of those work?
But any store, even corner 7 - 11 sells cheap garbarge duct tape. America can't work without it.
Anything that seals it. Strips of rubber, whatever, it is the joy of the jury rig. Strips of shelf paper wrapped many times. Wrapped over with electrical tape.
Whoever you should quickly know if it works. Can then go get $2.99 duct tape.
Somethings you always have plenty in the tool box. Red Greene solves every problem on the TV anybody can dream up with the tape.
Pretty well can't be plugged up. You would have water shooting all over the territory. Most of it is going down the line or you sure will know it.
Simple...get a small pail...place drain hose into pail and turn the machine on to drain...the pressure will show if the hose is clogged or not. Chances are the machine has a lint blockage and the pump pressure is showing on the hose.
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Could be several things
