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No a 15A and 20A are not equal. If they were then they wouldn't have different ratings.
"BTW, a 15 and 20 amp receptacle are electrically equally capable."
In other words, what satx56 is saying is that the 15A GFCIs are designed for 20A pass-through, which is indeed the case for the ones that I've encountered (P&S and Leviton).
From the breaker, connect those wires to the LINE on a 15A GFCI (#1).
Connect the wires to #2 off the same LINE terminals, as so it will pass through without being protected. Nothing is to be connected on the load side.
#2 ... same thing - both sets of wires on the LINE.
#3 (fridge) ... a regular outlet connected as usual. This will be unprotected.
Any issues on #1 or #2, it'll be that specific GFCI that trips; No other outlet will be affected.
"BTW, a 15 and 20 amp receptacle are electrically equally capable."
In other words, what satx56 is saying is that the 15A GFCIs are designed for 20A pass-through, which is indeed the case for the ones that I've encountered (P&S and Leviton).
...and that matches 210.21(B)(3) in the 2008 NEC which states:
(3) Receptacle Ratings.
Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall conform to the values listed in Table 210.21(B)(3), or where larger than 50 amperes, the receptacle rating shall not be less than the branch-circuit rating.
Table 210.21(B)(3) shows that a 20a circuit can use 15a or 20a receptacles. Since most installed receptacles are duplex, one receptacle qualifies it. If you had a single outlet receptacle by itself on a branch circuit, it would have to be rated at no less than the amperage of the circuit.
Guys all I'm saying is that 15 and 20 amp duplex or single receptacles appear to be same capacity. Break one of each open and you'll see what I mean. These may be the only two 115V devices rated differently that this is true for. The difference is the 20 amp has a T slot and should have no less than # 12 wire to it. An appliance needing a 20 amp circuit will plug into the 20 but not the 15 amp receptacle. The 15 amp receptacle is apparently actually good for 20 amps also. If fed by #12 wire and not #14. Same is true for 220 receptacles . Break open a 15 Tandem and a 20 amp T Tandem ...no difference in metal gauges. Now as far as GFI's in series or so on I won't comment. I've done considerable electrical stuff as an A/C technician. I've done quite a bit of many things. BTW, If you compare 30 amp and 50 amp receptacles there may be a considerable difference.
Guys all I'm saying is that 15 and 20 amp duplex or single receptacles appear to be same capacity. Break one of each open and you'll see what I mean. These may be the only two 115V devices rated differently that this is true for. The difference is the 20 amp has a T slot and should have no less than # 12 wire to it. An appliance needing a 20 amp circuit will plug into the 20 but not the 15 amp receptacle. The 15 amp receptacle is apparently actually good for 20 amps also. If fed by #12 wire and not #14. Same is true for 220 receptacles . Break open a 15 Tandem and a 20 amp T Tandem ...no difference in metal gauges. Now as far as GFI's in series or so on I won't comment. I've done considerable electrical stuff as an A/C technician. I've done quite a bit of many things. BTW, If you compare 30 amp and 50 amp receptacles there may be a considerable difference.
Perhaps more plainly stated this way. The devices are rated as to minimum current carrying ability. It is the configuration of it's slots which allow/deny acceptance of certain appliance plugs. If it's rated at 20 amps it will accept a 15 or 20 amp plug. If it's rated at 15 amps it will only accept a 15 amp plug. Configuration shows a circuits current carrying capacity. You wouldn't put a 20 amp device on a 14 gauge circuit. 15 amp device on a 12 gauge circuit is fine. Actually you should know there isn't much difference in large 220 receptacles aside from Ground/neutral prong the other blades may be the same size!! Check out a 25 amp and 30 amp dryer, 50 amp range/welder receptacle.
Actually devices are rated for it's maximum capacity. While they may seen similar in construction it is recommended to use it as intended. I.e. for a single branch 20A 1500 VA countertop outlet install a 20A gfci. Some state AHJs would fail you for installing a single 15A. But for branches with more than one outlet it is ok to use 15A because i.e. 2x15A = 30A (where you would never draw that much).
Kitchens are required to have no less than TWO 20Amp Small Appliance Circuits...
protected for load (amps) by 20A circuit breakers.
These circuits require no less than two GFC-I receptacles (the first on the circuit) but
all subsequent receptacles (of any number) can be regular receptacles. 15A devices are fine.
Similar applies for AFCI and other circuits.
Unless it's dedicated (like a sump pump) a 20A circuit can use 15A devices.
Instead of GFCI receptacles, you can use a gfci breaker to protect the entire circuit. However that is pretty dumb IMO because, if it trips, you have to run to the breaker box to reset it.
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