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we are not changing appliances or adding countertop, only appliance we are adding is dish washer and we are not doing anything fancy just normal and basic update - $6k is for flooring, painting, no platform ( only kitchen island) and cabinets nothing else. Yes the number came from contractor so we will see how the work goes, he said he will be done in 5 days.
What kind of flooring do you have now, and what kind of flooring would you be putting in?
Is the kitchen island a new element or are you just replacing one that you already have?
Okay, so as I'm understanding it, the $6000 estimate you received is for:
* removing the existing countertop and sink and faucetry and refrigerator and stove and setting them aside
* removing the existing kitchen cabinets and disposing of them
* removing the existing dishwasher and disposing of it
* removing whatever the existing flooring is, down to the plywood subfloor (better hope the existing flooring isn't asbestos tile, or that the subfloor isn't discovered to have water damage and needs to be replaced, FYI) and disposing of it
* supplying and installing 144 square feet of new flooring material (what kind?)
* supplying and installing new kitchen cabinets and island (and new countertop for the island if the island is a new thing)
* repairing any visible drywall that got damaged during the cabinetry-removal process
* supplying and installing a new dishwasher
* re-installing your old (existing) countertops, sink, and faucetry
* re-installing your old (existing) stove and refrigerator
* prep and painting of drywall (ceiling and walls)
Is that correct? I didn't include anything to do with the exhaust fan because I don't know if you have one, or if it is one of the old style ones that are mounted through an exterior wall adjacent to the stove. So that may or may not be an extra thing for them to do. And all that for $6000? Do you actually know what cabinets and flooring you will be getting or was the $6000 just a ballpark figure the contractor threw out?
What kind of flooring do you have now, and what kind of flooring would you be putting in?
Is the kitchen island a new element or are you just replacing one that you already have?
Okay, so as I'm understanding it, the $6000 estimate you received is for:
* removing the existing countertop and sink and faucetry and refrigerator and stove and setting them aside
* removing the existing kitchen cabinets and disposing of them
* removing the existing dishwasher and disposing of it
* removing whatever the existing flooring is, down to the plywood subfloor (better hope the existing flooring isn't asbestos tile, or that the subfloor isn't discovered to have water damage and needs to be replaced, FYI) and disposing of it
* supplying and installing 144 square feet of new flooring material (what kind?)
* supplying and installing new kitchen cabinets and island (and new countertop for the island if the island is a new thing)
* repairing any visible drywall that got damaged during the cabinetry-removal process
* supplying and installing a new dishwasher
* re-installing your old (existing) countertops, sink, and faucetry
* re-installing your old (existing) stove and refrigerator
* prep and painting of drywall (ceiling and walls)
Is that correct? I didn't include anything to do with the exhaust fan because I don't know if you have one, or if it is one of the old style ones that are mounted through an exterior wall adjacent to the stove. So that may or may not be an extra thing for them to do. And all that for $6000? Do you actually know what cabinets and flooring you will be getting or was the $6000 just a ballpark figure the contractor threw out?
Hi yes, this is correct, he said some kind of waterproof vinyl flooring, he just gave the estimate
Hi yes, this is correct, he said some kind of waterproof vinyl flooring, he just gave the estimate
That's what I figured (probably sheet vinyl because that would be the least expensive.)
Next question: Was this just a verbal estimate (i.e., a "ballpark") or a written one? Because if it was just a verbal, and no materials were specified, this is what's likely going to happen:
You and your spouse will go with the contractor to Home Depot or Lowes or wherever he usually buys his materials, to look at cabinets. You or your spouse won't like the ones he shows you (because of the way they look and/or because they feel cheap and/or because you hate the available colors or styles), but you will see other cabinets that you like better. He will tell you that of course you can have those cabinets but that would cost "a little more" than his original $6K estimate. A little more will probably translate into another couple thousand dollars. You or your spouse will say okay, because after all, "you'll be looking at the cabinets for a long time."
Then you will look at flooring and the same thing will happen. You or your spouse won't like what you can have under the original price range the contractor quoted because you will think it looks "too plain" or "too cheap" or nobody likes any of the colors available. You will see something you like better, which will of course be more expensive. So now your $6000 estimate has turned into closer to a $10,000 estimate. Which you had better get in writing, specifying EXACTLY what materials the contractor is supplying (brand, model number, color, etc etc) because if it's not in writing it may as well not exist.
After they start the demo, if they find anything unexpected (like a damaged subfloor or any kind of wiring or plumbing issues) the contractor will charge you extra for dealing with those things. The price in the "final" estimate is rarely final, unless you are very very lucky. If you are smart, you will not let the contractor get away with telling you that "it won't be that much extra" or "we'll work it out at the end of the job" because then you will be in for an unpleasant surprise when he asks for several hundred dollars extra. Ask him to put down in writing at the time the issue is discovered, how much extra the extra work is going to cost. This is called a "change order."
FYI, if you are putting down sheet vinyl, your contractor should specify that the job includes proper floor prep as per the floor manufacturer's instructions. This is because any irregularities in the subfloor, such as dips and bumps and basically anything less than a really level surface, will "telegraph" themselves into the visible surface of the vinyl. This is why the better installers use a leveling compound on the subfloor first. This is particularly an issue with thinner (lower grade) sheet vinyl which also are the least expensive, but the better grades of vinyl will eventually show subfloor irregularities too.
That's what I figured (probably sheet vinyl because that would be the least expensive.)
Next question: Was this just a verbal estimate (i.e., a "ballpark") or a written one? Because if it was just a verbal, and no materials were specified, this is what's likely going to happen:
You and your spouse will go with the contractor to Home Depot or Lowes or wherever he usually buys his materials, to look at cabinets. You or your spouse won't like the ones he shows you (because of the way they look and/or because they feel cheap and/or because you hate the available colors or styles), but you will see other cabinets that you like better. He will tell you that of course you can have those cabinets but that would cost "a little more" than his original $6K estimate. A little more will probably translate into another couple thousand dollars. You or your spouse will say okay, because after all, "you'll be looking at the cabinets for a long time."
Then you will look at flooring and the same thing will happen. You or your spouse won't like what you can have under the original price range the contractor quoted because you will think it looks "too plain" or "too cheap" or nobody likes any of the colors available. You will see something you like better, which will of course be more expensive. So now your $6000 estimate has turned into closer to a $10,000 estimate. Which you had better get in writing, specifying EXACTLY what materials the contractor is supplying (brand, model number, color, etc etc) because if it's not in writing it may as well not exist.
After they start the demo, if they find anything unexpected (like a damaged subfloor or any kind of wiring or plumbing issues) the contractor will charge you extra for dealing with those things. The price in the "final" estimate is rarely final, unless you are very very lucky. If you are smart, you will not let the contractor get away with telling you that "it won't be that much extra" or "we'll work it out at the end of the job" because then you will be in for an unpleasant surprise when he asks for several hundred dollars extra. Ask him to put down in writing at the time the issue is discovered, how much extra the extra work is going to cost. This is called a "change order."
FYI, if you are putting down sheet vinyl, your contractor should specify that the job includes proper floor prep as per the floor manufacturer's instructions. This is because any irregularities in the subfloor, such as dips and bumps and basically anything less than a really level surface, will "telegraph" themselves into the visible surface of the vinyl. This is why the better installers use a leveling compound on the subfloor first. This is particularly an issue with thinner (lower grade) sheet vinyl which also are the least expensive, but the better grades of vinyl will eventually show subfloor irregularities too.
Thank you, I thought I had replied to you but looks like I had not, this information helped us decide and say no the contractor, we checked his business too and it shows as closed another red flag. Now maybe we will just go to home depot and get their services
Thank you, I thought I had replied to you but looks like I had not, this information helped us decide and say no the contractor, we checked his business too and it shows as closed another red flag. Now maybe we will just go to home depot and get their services
A suggestion: If possible, also visit the Lowes that is located on the north service road of the Expressway in Commack. If you have GPS, the address is 100 Long Island Expressway, Commack. This store is nicer than the other Lowes locations and has an expanded "showroom" area for kitchen and bath cabinetry, fixtures, etc. It used to be the Home Expo location during the early 2000s but Lowes took it over afterwards. Definitely a step up from the typical Lowes and Home Depot locations but the prices are the same. They offer installation services, just like Home Depot does, if you choose to go that route.
We got a new bathroom vanity and engineered quartz top from them at that location; they have a nice line of bathroom cabinets (Villa Bath) that the other Lowes stores do not display and HD does not carry. They also have Allen + Roth kitchen cabinetry which is Lowes' brand (HD does not carry that either, so it's worth a look just to compare.)
A suggestion: If possible, also visit the Lowes that is located on the north service road of the Expressway in Commack. If you have GPS, the address is 100 Long Island Expressway, Commack. This store is nicer than the other Lowes locations and has an expanded "showroom" area for kitchen and bath cabinetry, fixtures, etc. It used to be the Home Expo location during the early 2000s but Lowes took it over afterwards. Definitely a step up from the typical Lowes and Home Depot locations but the prices are the same. They offer installation services, just like Home Depot does, if you choose to go that route.
We got a new bathroom vanity and engineered quartz top from them at that location; they have a nice line of bathroom cabinets (Villa Bath) that the other Lowes stores do not display and HD does not carry. They also have Allen + Roth kitchen cabinetry which is Lowes' brand (HD does not carry that either, so it's worth a look just to compare.)
Thank you will definitely do that
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