Japanese bugs attacking my rose plants (Earl: houses, neighborhood, buy)

[gcretro]

I see these bugs feasting on my rose plant in tons!. Leaves have holes all over.
What can I do now at least to control? Hoping there is some spray I can buy in walmart/homedepot asap. Pl. suggest.

[ucctgg]

Those Japanese Beetles usually arrive around Memorial Day and leave about labor day. They are a real pest around here.
I had neighbors who even covered their roses in plastic bags. Japanese beetle traps are only slightly effective.

[Claire_F]

There is no spray to use. Traps only attract more. You can try to put down milky spore to kill the grubs that turn into next year's beetles, but it's expensive and not always effective. It's best to apply it in the fall.

The best way to attempt to control the ones you have now is to go out early in the morning and knock them into a bucket of soapy water. Early morning is best because they're not as active at that time.

[Supernc42]

Originally Posted by gcretro

I see these bugs feasting on my rose plant in tons!. Leaves have holes all over.
What can I do now at least to control? Hoping there is some spray I can buy in walmart/homedepot asap. Pl. suggest.

We use Sevin dust. Fill up an old worn out sock with about 2 inches of it, tie a knot in the sock and shake the dust unto the plant. The only threat here is the good bees want to eat it. Try to keep them away.

[MarkCanWrite]

We've done the soapy water trick for years, and it works. Getting them before they can mate and reproduce is the key. We have hardly any in our yard now.

[no kudzu]

milky spore disease is a natural product which is placed on the lawn and ground to kill the larvae but unless your neighbors do it as well it really doesn't work. japanese beetle traps are a big racket. why would anybody buy those. They are just a party invitation to beetles everywhere. Sevin dust works but as mentioned it can kill bees. malathion spray works too.
But the best thing which I have done for years is to keep a small can of gas (or soap) to pick the blasted beetles off and then stick them in the can of whatever you use. or don't plant roses which is one of their favorite meals. But then again they are not picky eaters---kinda like deer.

just google how to get rid of japanese beetles and you will find all sorts of remedies, videos, article, suggestion.
here is only one.

http://theherbgardener.blogspot.com/...tles-with.html

[don6170]

Originally Posted by Claire_F

Traps only attract more.

That's why you buy them and give them to your neighbors.

Originally Posted by Supernc42

We use Sevin dust. Fill up an old worn out sock with about 2 inches of it, tie a knot in the sock and shake the dust unto the plant. The only threat here is the good bees want to eat it. Try to keep them away.

I quit using Sevin when I learned about how it damages the bee population.

[Supernc42]

Originally Posted by don6170

That's why you buy them and give them to your neighbors.



I quit using Sevin when I learned about how it damages the bee population.

I believe liquid Sevin solves the bee problem. That is what we use now.

[don6170]

Originally Posted by Supernc42

I believe liquid Sevin solves the bee problem. That is what we use now.

Liquid is much better, but not risk free. Here is some of the text from http://www.cdms.net/ldat/ldAT9000.pdf

BEE CAUTION: This product is highly toxic to honey bees exposed to direct treatment on blooming crops or weeds. However, field studies have shown that Sevin XLR CARBARYL INSECTICIDE LIQUID SUSPENSION, while toxic to honey bees, is less hazardous than other carbaryl products when direct application to bees is avoided and the spray residues have dried.
For maximum honey bee hazard reduction, apply Sevin XLR CARBARYL INSECTICIDE LIQUID SUSPENSION from late evening to early morning or when be es are not foraging. If application must be made during foraging periods, the following precautionary measures must be performed prior to treatment to minimize honey bee kill: notify beekeepers to: (1) confine the honey bees to the hive by covering the col
ony or screening the entrance; or (2) locate hives beyond honey bee flight range from the treated area. Precautionary measures may be discontinued after spray residues have dried. Leafcutter bees are more sensitive to insecticides than honey bees. Carbaryl applications should be avoided where these bees are foraging

[Sherifftruman]

The Milky Spore is the best long term solution, but it will not work this year. It takes a couple of years to really get going, but it is natural and has no effects on bees and also helps kill the grubs that eat your grass roots, which are what turn into the beetles. It works best if people all around you do it as well, but it will also spread if they don't, just way more slowly. It works for a decade or more before needing to be boosted. Now, the milky spore can also affect fireflies, so if seeing lots of them flying around your yard is important, it may not be for you.

The second best thing I have found is this stuff. It is too late to apply this year as well, but next February or March, put it down and it will protect your plant. It also does not hurt bees and other beneficial insects. This will keep any random beetles that fly in from surrounding areas from munching on your plants or at least they only get one munch. 12 Month Tree & Shrub Protect & Feed | Bayer Advanced

I used Seven years ago, but also stopped when I found out the collateral damage on bees.

The soapy water is good. Also a product called Neem oil works. Most home stores and hardware stores have it and it is natural.

So, I have a Japanese Cherry tree that used to get DEVASTATED by the beetles. I guess it was a taste of home or something. Probably 75% of the leaves were skeletonized the first year. I tried traps, but it is dubious whether they really help as they attract beetles. Maybe if a neighbor a couple of houses down puts them out!

After the first year when I cut the Sevin out I put the milky spore down and used the Bayer Tree and Shrub. The following season, I did notice a reduction in the number of beetles, I also did not put the Tree and Shrub quite early enough. Maybe late April or Early May, so the first leavers got eaten, but the ones that grew out later did not.

The second season, I had maybe 25% of the number of beetles and since I got the Tree and Shrub down in a timely manner. Little to no damage. Now I may see a dozen beetles all year while people in other parts of the neighborhood have traps up all over. I have not seen one beetle yet this year. I still do the Tree and Shrub treatment as it has fertilizer and keeps the random beetles from doing much damage.