Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill, CaryThe Triangle Area
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I am not quite sure how I ended up venturing into this, but have actually painted three of them for friends over the last 2 years - amazing transformation and are completely functional. 2 were painted black and another darkened the wood tone with a faux finish.
It is very time consuming because of the number of moving and connecting pieces, but a great result.
I believe the toughtest thing about a full refinish would be the amount of sanding needed to get a piece down to bare wood. You would have to seal off all of the musical apparatus.
Here are 2 different painted pianos - before & after... If the pics don't come through PM me & I'll send them to you.
*Enlarge the (2nd) before picture to see why this young couple REALLY wanted theirs done. This was a piano inherited from her grandmother which had a big fishbowl water mark on the top, and all sorts of discoloration. If they didn't paint it they would have gotten rid of it. I think it is wonderful that it will be around for another couple of generations... imagine their future toddler learning to walk by pulling him or herself around that piano bench... and learning to play and appreciate music. I am glad to be part of the making of a family heirloom.
As for refinishing - I would not know where to refer you!
Last edited by brooks2007; 12-07-2009 at 10:13 PM..
Reason: Attachments
Those pictures look great. Painting is an option that I'm considering. I am inheriting this piano, it was stripped of the original finish 30 years ago by my parents who never got around to doing anything more with it.
What was your process for painting, did you use a primer and how many coats of finish paint? What sheen did you use (e.g. semi-gloss) and was it latex or oil? Thanks for the tips!
Hopefully they are just on the top of the piano??? If so, that can be sanded pretty easily & stained or if natural just resealed.
I've done some reparations, it depends on how deep the water marks penetrate. Here is a door I refinished for a fellow City-Data neighbor - (the door was only4 or 5 years old). It was (and now IS) GORGEOUS, but their builder didn't seal it properly and it was thrashed - had a lot of sun & weather exposure. You can see where the kickplate had protected the original finish.
It's all in the preparation and finish - no shortcuts! Make sure you seal it and allow it to cure properly... Click pics to see detail...
You can do the same thing to a piano, especially if it is just the top!
Last edited by brooks2007; 12-08-2009 at 08:30 PM..
Reason: Spelling - sheesh!
Could you please send me the same info that you sent dedratermi. I just bought a baby grand and I think I wont to paint it. Your post give me some inspiration.
I know I'm way late on this one, but brooks, can I get that same info as well? I have an organ that's been chopped and I'm customizing and which will soon need painting, so any info would be most helpful, or, how much do you charge for a custom paint job? thanks!
Ruggero and Hopper are two family-owned, very reputable piano stores in the area (who do more than just sell them). I would start with them. Ruggero is off Capital in the Mini-City area and Hopper is on Capital just inside the Beltline, near the bowling alley.
I know I'm way late on this one, but brooks, can I get that same info as well? I have an organ that's been chopped and I'm customizing and which will soon need painting, so any info would be most helpful, or, how much do you charge for a custom paint job? thanks!
I am moving out of state at the end of the month so have no time for any more jobs. The most difficult thing about painting a piano is dealing with all of the moving and touching parts (near keys, where lid folds and touches sides, etc) as well as keeping dust and particles out of the keys and musical components.
Tape off keys, putting paper sheets over them so you don't get dust in them. Plastic over the back to keep dust from getting into the key strikes, etc. Vacuum twice - prepping your piece is the MOST important step.
Once you have it sanded and deglossed, you have to use a really good primer, especially true for anything that will be handled or manipulated frequently. Use at least 2 thin coats and let them dry 24 - 48 hours between coats. Where the parts touch you will have to do these separately so you see the whole priming aspect alone can take 4 - 6 days. Then you start the same process with your paint, strategically isolating the moving parts and allowing them to FULLY cure (dry) between coats. I like latex, semi gloss paint (Beluga Black is nice!). Careful to run brushstrokes the same direction and NOT overwork your paint or it will take on a different sheen.
I usually finish with again 2 -3 thin coats of poly - of course allowing for drying time. It takes a LOT of patience and is a labor of love... Painting a piano for pay is rather expensive, more so for the sheer number of trips to and from the home for each coat!
Keep in mind humidity levels for dry time... can take forever to dry in the summer in NC!
DM me if you need anymore info...
And take before & after pics!
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