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Happy Labor Day, everybody! As we batten down the hatches for Hermine, this seems like a good time to reflect on the road trips I've taken during the 2016 road-trip season. There will surely be more (I went to Maine for the day in December of last year), but I feel like the time of rapid-fire road trips is now over.
What is a road trip, anyway? I define it as a car trip longer than 45 minutes that doesn't require me to stay overnight. I think of two hours one way as the maximum I'm willing to endure without getting a hotel, but rules are made to be broken, and I did bend that one once this summer. For the purposes of this post, I'll stick with that definition, which excludes some great times I had in places like Mystic (I don't think of myself as a local here like I do in Providence or Newport, but it's still less than 45 minutes), not to mention my overnight trips to Stowe (four hours) and New York (three).
You'll only find one Rhode Island destination on this list. (I did spend more than 45 minutes on several occasions driving way the hell out to Darkest Burrillville to drop my kid off at camp, but those were utilitarian trips and I didn't see much besides the many, many, many, many, many many many many many many many many Trump yard signs.) So why am I posting here? Because 1) These are all road trips you can take from Rhode Island, which is relevant to discussion of our fair state -- you couldn't take all the same road trips within the designated time period from anywhere else, and 2) nobody in General U.S. wants to read this, but maybe one or two people here do?
I've loved road trips since I've had a driver's license and could control them myself; I've really loved them since moving to Rhode Island, which made them a lot less of a hassle and opened up so many more possibilities. (When you live in New York City, as I used to, it can take you two hours just to leave the metro area.) But this is the first summer I ever made a list of trips I wanted to take. I completed all but one. Sorry, Hampton Beach, New Hampshire.
Without further ado, in the order I took them starting from the beginning of spring:
The destination: Falmouth, Massachusetts Time from home without traffic: 1 hour, 20 minutes Impressions: It's utter sacrilege to say this in New England, but I've found myself a little underwhelmed by Cape Cod (at least until the point of this trip; more on that later). Falmouth was nice, but it didn't seem nicer than a comparable little seaside town off the Cape. Beautiful waterfront, though, and I found a kickin' playground for my 6-year-old. I may have had more positive impressions a month later, when the weather would have been better (it was borderline freezing) and the village presumably wouldn't have been so dead. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? Didn't eat. We weren't having a great time, so we just went home. Would I return? I feel like I should give this place another try in nicer weather with a bigger crowd, but I'll have to work on convincing my wife, who's less adventurous than I am in that sense. Total score: 4/10
The destination: Boston, Massachusetts Time from home without traffic: 1 hour Impressions: I list Boston only for the sake of completeness, as I go all the time. It's Boston. It's one of America's great cities. This season I explored Beacon Hill with a thoroughness I haven't in the past. Also circumnavigated Pleasure Bay in South Boston, a two-mile voyage. Even with the cold wind cutting into my face and my kid asking to be picked up on occasion (he's not light), I'd do it again. Southie just keeps getting cooler, by the way. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? For some reason a pretzel cone at JP Licks is what pops into my head. If you have a chance to get a pretzel cone, do it. Would I return? I have and I will. Total score: 10/10
The destination: Concord, New Hampshire Time from home without traffic: 2 hours Impressions: Actually stopped here on the way to an overnight in Stowe, but it's within my day-trip limit, so it counts! Concord was the second-dinkiest capital city I've ever visited, after Montpelier, but I like them that way. Super charming main drag, and the State House was beautiful. Only negative: This was the only place I've ever really been able to sense the heroin epidemic. Obvious junkies everywhere, including one who saw my Rhode Island license plate and tried to strike up an uncomfortable conversation about his sister who lives in Warwick. I like talking to strangers, but y'know, I like them to be sober. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? Not bad. Good pub grub and some excellent local mead. Is that the most hipster thing I've ever said, "excellent local mead"? Would I return? This is a tough one. I liked it a lot, but there also may not have been enough there there. I guess not. Total score: 6/10
The destination: Rockport, Massachusetts Time from home without traffic: 1 hour, 45 minutes Impressions: Now here was the Cape I was looking for -- Cape Ann! What a great town. Five times as nice and 10 times as touristy as I was expecting. If you published a 600-page tour guide to the six states of New England, you'd do just fine putting a shot of Bearskin Neck on the cover. Oh, not Rockport's fault, but this wasn't fun: We dressed for the weather in Rhode Island, then arrived in Rockport to find the temperature was 20 degrees lower. We had to buy a bunch of overpriced tourist sweatshirts. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? Pretty good, but the view out of the restaurant's giant ocean-facing window was better. No wait for this place, by the way. Would I return? Not soon, as it's close to my day-trip limit and there are plenty of other places to see, but one day, one day. Total score: 9/10
The destination: Somerville, Massachusetts Time from home without traffic: 1 hour, 10 minutes Impressions: A day trip so nice, I made it twice, once with just my kid, which impressed me so much I told my wife she had to see it. Hip things are happening in Somerville. I hesitate to compare it to Brooklyn, but sigh, it reminds me of Brooklyn. Oh, and Assembly Row, which does not remind me of Brooklyn, is pretty amazing. You know Assembly Row? It's been open for two years now -- it's kind of an outdoor mall, but it's also a newly built neighborhood, with apartments and offices and a great playground on the Mystic River. You should go. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? Great! Two trips allowed for two dinners, and both were great. Both were also barbecue. You hipsters and your barbecue! Would I return? Probably before long. Total score: 9/10
The destination: Northampton, Massachusetts Time from home without traffic: 1 hour, 50 minutes Impressions: This was probably my biggest road-trip disappointment of the year. I was excited about seeing one of America's most LGBT-friendly towns, situated in the beautiful Pioneer Valley. What I found was a charming-but-typical town where the LGBT presence wasn't that visible and, surprisingly, neither was the scenery -- I don't know what it was about the lay of the town, but you couldn't really take in the beauty until you got on the highway. I liked nearby Amherst (a 2015 road trip) a lot better. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? We had trouble finding a restaurant that looked really worthwhile, so we absconded to Providence instead. Would I return? Nah. Maybe if I were on an overnight trip nearby. Total score: 4/10
The destination: Provincetown, Massachusetts Time from home without traffic: 2 hours, 20 minutes (but good luck with that) Impressions: First off, let's be clear: This is not a day trip. I decided to take the scenic route, and I think the whole thing (including a stop for lunch) took more than four hours. Such an ambitious trip was not originally on my 2016 list; I added it on a whim after a gay friend of mine who goes with his husband every year couldn't stop crowing about it on Facebook and Victory Day was the next weekend, which gave me the opportunity to drive in on a weekday when most people had to work. (I shudder to imagine the trip on a weekend, much less, say, Memorial Day.) Do I regret it? Hell no! Provincetown is A to the W to the E-S-O-M-E awesome. This is the Cape Cod I'd dreamed of. Just loads of people -- gay, straight, families of all kinds -- having fun fun fun in a town with off-the-charts charm. Two surprises: More art galleries than I've ever seen in such a small area, and a little-talked-about beach just a block off Commercial Street with water as warm as Florida, no kidding. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? Would you believe I didn't have a full sit-down meal? But the Grape Nut ice cream and fresh-squeezed vegetable juice were both great. Would I return? Yes, please, but I'll get an Airbnb next time. Total score: 10/10
The destination: Plymouth, Massachusetts Time from home without traffic: 1 hour, 10 minutes Impressions: The main street was a slight disappointment, but the uber-historic waterfront more than made up for it. And don't get me wrong, the main street was still very nice -- the side streets, with more colonial-era houses, were better. I've heard a lot of people talk about how seeing Plymouth Rock is underwhelming. To those people, I ask: Why do you hate America? Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? Nothing is more American than burgers, and Plymouth knows what it's doing in that department. Would I return? I think so. Total score: 7/10
The destination: Block Island (New Shoreham), Rhode Island Time from home without traffic: 30 minutes to ferry, 1 hour on ferry Impressions: Finally! After a couple of unsuccessful attempts to visit, I got to the ferry landing on time and made it. I remember saying to my wife, as we walked along the roadside to the beach, "This is spectacular." I did Nantucket last year and can't help but compare; don't get me wrong, I love Nantucket's ostentatious wealth, but there's something really appealing about Block Island's down-to-earth, laid-back, beachy vibe. You really do get that island thing going, where you forget you have a job and bills to pay across Block Island Sound. A couple of points off, though, for a beach that gets rockier the closer you get to the ferry. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? Fresh and delicious and made all the better when eaten on a patio looking out on the ocean. Would I return? Probably next summer. Total score: 8/10
The destination: Essex, Connecticut Time from home without traffic: 1 hour Impressions: The village was cute but a little sparse. There's a spectacular waterfront park unfortunately located behind a parking lot. For my money, though, the real draw here is what claims to be America's only combined steam train and riverboat. You take a ride up to Connecticut River in a vintage steam train -- you know, the chugga-chugga-choo-choo kind -- to a boat launch, where you take an old-timey riverboat (named "Becky Thatcher," like all riverboats) up to the opera house in East Haddam. I would do this over and over again. Well, maybe only like three times; then it would probably get a little old. Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the food? Respectable. Surprisingly few selections in town. Would I return? For the train and riverboat, yes. Probably not just for the village. Total score: 7/10
Coming soon: photos!
Last edited by boulevardofdef; 09-05-2016 at 08:59 AM..
2016 is the year I started taking lots and lots of photos on my crappy phone, so here are some to illustrate the above post:
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Falmouth, Massachusetts Next time, take Route 6-A on the 'bay' side. Route 28 is the 'tourist road trip' all the way to PTown . You'll hit every gift shop and clam bar on the Cape in Falmouth and along 28. You can take Rt. 134 cross Cape and avoid the big traffic by going from one side to the other. Falmouth is nothing to write home about anymore, always has been the 'go to' gown for college students. Harwich and Harwichport is nice, get some fried clams! Osterville, Oyster Harbor, Nauset, Eastham ... you haven't seen the Cape yet.
Plymouth, Massachusetts Very nice for the history and a lobster or two or three. Next time, if you haven't already, make a reservation for a whale watching tour on a Capt. Bill's boat (nice boat and your son will love it). Nice road trip.
Block Island, Rhode Island
Essex, Connecticut
Above reply from 'an old Capey'. We rented cottages there for years. It's the only place I miss in the northeast. (Now looking for a little vacay place near Wilmington.)
Above reply from 'an old Capey'. We rented cottages there for years. It's the only place I miss in the northeast. (Now looking for a little vacay place near Wilmington.)
Thanks! I'm always looking for Cape advice. I did take 6A to Provincetown, and as I alluded to in my original post, I don't think I really "got" the Cape until I did that. Barnstable Village, there's a place I'd like to see more of (though I saw plenty of it while I was stuck in traffic there for something like 20 minutes).
Thanks! I'm always looking for Cape advice. I did take 6A to Provincetown, and as I alluded to in my original post, I don't think I really "got" the Cape until I did that. Barnstable Village, there's a place I'd like to see more of (though I saw plenty of it while I was stuck in traffic there for something like 20 minutes).
So how did you end up in Falmouth from Barnstable ? or vice versa ? They're on pposite sides.
Or did you take Rt. 6, the Mid-Cape Hwy to P-Town ? You should really see Nauset Beach, on the Atlantic side. Breathtaking.
So how did you end up in Falmouth from Barnstable ? or vice versa ? They're on pposite sides.
Or did you take Rt. 6, the Mid-Cape Hwy to P-Town ? You should really see Nauset Beach, on the Atlantic side. Breathtaking.
Simple: two different trips.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollytree
Great post Boulevard!
Agree with your ratings of Falmouth and Northampton.
Somerville Ma though??? maybe I missed anything good about it, but from what I saw, it was one step up from Pawtucket.
I haven't really looked at Rockport- probably should go there.
Keep your reports coming!!!
Thanks! How long has it been since you've been to Somerville? It's changing all the time. Among a certain type of young creative-class worker, it's becoming almost de rigueur to live there, from what I can tell. Some of the city is still Pawtucket-ish, but check out Davis Square and the aforementioned Assembly Row. The photo I posted above is Davis Square.
Thanks! How long has it been since you've been to Somerville? It's changing all the time. Among a certain type of young creative-class worker, it's becoming almost de rigueur to live there, from what I can tell. Some of the city is still Pawtucket-ish, but check out Davis Square and the aforementioned Assembly Row. The photo I posted above is Davis Square.
I've been recently & have young folks who rent there because it's more affordable than Back Bay.
I imagine it will continue to improve but I wouldn't make it a destination in terms of a visit to Boston.
Location: Earth, a nice neighborhood in the Milky Way
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Interesting read. I don't share your working definition of road trip. For me it is quite the opposite in fact; a road trip is an extended trip by vehicle where overnights are part of the story. Think Kerouac's On the Road. I really think what you're doing is day tripping.
I guess I haven't explored Cape Cod enough to claim to love it. I've been to Falmouth and Provincetown and can't say I thought either were worth a second visit. When I lived in Somerville it was much easier to get to Cape Ann than Cape Cod and I always preferred Cape Ann over what I had seen of Cape Cod. But now that I don't have the Boston traffic to fight, I should get back out to CC and explore some more. One thing I wanted to do this summer was catch the ferry from Quonset to Martha's Vineyard, but found it hard to justify a day trip there; in comparing ferry fares, I chose to visit Block Island again, with no regrets.
I can see Somerville as a destination to check out Davis and Union Squares if you haven't been. I don't think to make it a day-tripping destination mostly because I lived there and I'd rather spend my time exploring other places in New England. I check it out if I'm up that way and have a little time to kill. I check out a few shops and places that I have a bit of nostalgia for, and take a mental snapshot of how it has changed over the years (and laugh at how much they get for what really was, all in all, some pretty mediocre housing stock).
Interesting read. I don't share your working definition of road trip. For me it is quite the opposite in fact; a road trip is an extended trip by vehicle where overnights are part of the story. Think Kerouac's On the Road. I really think what you're doing is day tripping.
Actually, I mostly agree with you. I meant to call this "The Day Trips of 2016" but slipped and wrote "Road Trips" instead, then continued the error throughout the original post. I disagree in that I think a day trip is a subset of road trips, but yes, this is about day trips specifically.
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You'll hit every gift shop and clam bar on the Cape in Falmouth and along 28. You can take Rt. 134 cross Cape and avoid the big traffic by going from one side to the other. Falmouth is nothing to write home about anymore, always has been the 'go to' gown for college students. Harwich and Harwichport is nice, get some fried clams! Osterville, Oyster Harbor, Nauset, Eastham ... you haven't seen the Cape yet. 
