Is there a way to burn pine type wood? (tile, hot)

[blackzzz01]

Originally Posted by Bob_the_fart_guy

Thank you all so much for the wonderful feedback. I'll need to study up on how to look at a tree and determine what kind it is.

Does that beer can trick really work?

Going on your nickname once you get that fire a-roarin' you might not want to turn your back to it!

[blueflames50]

Originally Posted by Bob_the_fart_guy

Thank you all so much for the wonderful feedback. I'll need to study up on how to look at a tree and determine what kind it is.

Does that beer can trick really work?

well the city flatlanders country wannnbees that move here spend the money on the aluminum cakes or powder to put in their stoves once a month (if you run wood stove continuously) then there are us who use beer/soda cans an have for generations!

[myrc60]

Originally Posted by blueflames50

In New England....we dry and use pine pitch coated wood for kindling (fat pine wood) not sure of the Indian spelling......learned from the native Indian's many many decades ago...they now sell an artificial stuff called Phat Wood. Many Maple Syrup Boilers use pine slabs for boiling fires....lots of people burn really really dry wood...throw in a beer can or powdered aluminum in the fire every so often to clean out creosote....

why aluminum? does it burn?

[blueflames50]

Originally Posted by myrc60

why aluminum? does it burn?

breaks down creosote.....prevents chimney fires...

[warptman]

A lot of people here burn pallets along with wood they've cut the year before.

[myrc60]

Originally Posted by blueflames50

breaks down creosote.....prevents chimney fires...

and no expensive log to buy! Thanks!

[irman]

Originally Posted by Bob_the_fart_guy

Does that beer can trick really work?

Only if you drink the contents first ...
Otherwise it is an utter waste !

And yes, alu cans are the way to do it.
I used to *acquire* alu chips from the machine shop when I still was working !!!
Actually used an old washing machine to get the oil out .

[RayinAK]

The best thing to do is to season the firewood before burning, to keep the fire going from 300-600 degrees, and to sweep the stove pipe (stack, chimney, etc.) at regular intervals. There are certain chemicals one can spray on the fire logs before burning, and these keep creosote lens down a little, but don't expect such things to replace chimney sweeps.

By the way, catalytic stoves keep creosote levels down because they burn quite hot. The catalyst starts working when the burn reaches 600 degrees. Also, a lot of non-catalyst stoves are designed to burn hot fires. The key is seasoned wood, hot-enough fires, and chimney sweeps when needed.

[starlite9]

Originally Posted by Bob_the_fart_guy

Thank you all so much for the wonderful feedback. I'll need to study up on how to look at a tree and determine what kind it is.

Does that beer can trick really work?

Not a clue, but if you are burning a fire hot enough to melt the aluminum, you are hot enough to clean out the creosote in the stack, and that would make people think it is the "Cure", the hot fire is what cleans the stack. People use to tell me they used egg shells, chicken bones and a host of other secret stuff... a hot fire is what cures the stack fires by keeping the stack clean..

When I stoke up a fire with wood, I alway get it to burn hot, then I shut it down. I have never had a build up in the stack and I check it a lot, since I went to coal, it is a different process and burns hot and clean.

Besides, I would be more concerned about the toxic gases put off from a burning metal.

[MissingAll4Seasons]

Our stove guys warned us NOT to use the alu and other chemical "cleaner" logs/crystals... seems that they react with the metal in your stove pipe and corrode it, which can actually void your warranty and/or your insurance policy! Then if you get a creosote or spark fire anyway, you're screwed.

Sweeping your chimney with a rod and brush is easy and guaranteed effective. Sure, you might have to get up on the roof, or dismantle your flue for a cleanout; but doing so ensures that you're actually inspecting it and can see for yourself whether it's fully clean or damaged in any way. Better safe than sorry, and I'd rather not be stuck watching my cabin burn down when it's -40 outside!

As for pine (or accurately the family Pinaceae, i.e. "conifers", which also includes spruce, larch, cedar, hemlock and firs), they burn just fine if they're seasoned properly. Because they tend to have a high resin content, they usually burn hotter and faster than hardwoods... but if they're not seasoned properly, they won't burn well at all and will produce a cold fire which makes a lot of creosote. Hardwoods are the preferred firewood in locations where they grow because they have a higher BTU output for a longer duration than softwoods, not because they have inherently less creosote risk.

FYI - the #1 contributing factor to creosote build-up is a cold stove pipe/chimney. If your fire isn't hot enough, or if your stack runs outside the house for a long distance, the smoke is too cold and the particulates condense on the inner surface. For this reason, it is best to burn a fire at a high temp rather than letting it smolder, and run your stove pipe as straight as possible within the heated envelope of the house until it must exit the roof (keeping proper chimney-to-obstruction clearances of course). If you must run your pipe out a wall and then up above your roof, or for a long distance after it exits the roof (i.e. it's near the eave, but must clear the ridge), then insulated/double-wall stove pipe and chimney are highly recommended.