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First: There is no room on this board for personal attacks. You can agree or disagree with my methods of shopping.
Second: I've used this method for shopping for cars for over 30 years. If I don't get what I want, within reason, I walk. That said I've owned every car I've ever gone looking for.
Third: Every person has their own comfort level of what they are willing to pay. You will never get exactly whats in your head, but usually within an acceptable range.
i guarantee that you would have a much better buying experience if you didnt walk into the dealership with a complex. a good majority of sales guys are not scumbags. its very easy to tell who is and who isnt. and the dealerships with the best reputations always get that way for a reason. i sold cars right out of college before i found my current job. the people who came in with a chip on their shoulders were always the ones who would get screwed over because nobody liked working with them. the people who walked in and were positive and receptive always walked out of there with insane deals. just for the hell of it you should try it and see what happens.
Ok--here's an example. A local dealership has a 2009 Forester 2.5X listed for $21,900.00 (the best local deal I can find). It has 35,000 miles on it (more than what I wanted), but when I checked carfax it has a complete service record--you can see every oil change. It's priced considerably below lower mileage Foresters in this area. It was used as a commercial vehicle, it was owned for a little over a year, and I'm betting those were all highway miles. Is that the kind of car I want to look for, and how do I know what's actually a fair price? Am I ok with a littler higher mileage if the car's been really well maintained? I haven't looked at it, so I don't know what type of shape the interior, etc. is in. I'll obviously look at lots of vehicles, but I feel like a complete idiot, so I appreciate your patience. If the cars in excellent shape, would I walk in and offer them $19,000.00 and see where they go from there?
I cut myself off earlier and didn't include this, so I hope I'm making sense. Here's almost the exact same vehicle, except in a 2010, at the same dealership, with only 6,000 miles for only a thousand dollars more. It doesn't have any record of accidents, etc according to carfax. The original owner only had it 4 months. Why the tiny price difference unless there's a problem? This is where I'm lost...
Ok--here's an example. A local dealership has a 2009 Forester 2.5X listed for $21,900.00 (the best local deal I can find). It has 35,000 miles on it (more than what I wanted), but when I checked carfax it has a complete service record--you can see every oil change. It's priced considerably below lower mileage Foresters in this area. It was used as a commercial vehicle, it was owned for a little over a year, and I'm betting those were all highway miles. Is that the kind of car I want to look for, and how do I know what's actually a fair price? Am I ok with a littler higher mileage if the car's been really well maintained? I haven't looked at it, so I don't know what type of shape the interior, etc. is in. I'll obviously look at lots of vehicles, but I feel like a complete idiot, so I appreciate your patience. If the cars in excellent shape, would I walk in and offer them $19,000.00 and see where they go from there?
I cut myself off earlier and didn't include this, so I hope I'm making sense. Here's almost the exact same vehicle, except in a 2010, at the same dealership, with only 6,000 miles for only a thousand dollars more. It doesn't have any record of accidents, etc according to carfax. The original owner only had it 4 months. Why the tiny price difference unless there's a problem? This is where I'm lost...
i see what you're saying...i can't imagine why these cars only have $1k difference.
wouldn't hurt to give them a call and just ask...i'de be interested to know. most likely they got a good deal on the 2010, and are passing it on to you! haha!
what kind of warranty comes factory with a Subaru?? that's one thing to consider...if it's 50k miles, then i like the 2010.
Go see the Subaru with the lower mileage. It has the balance of manufacturers warranty still left. See if it has the options you want. There are numerous versions. FYI 2011 base starts at 21,220. So price out the 2010 thay have against a 2011 so you have a reference point.
Per their website they have two 2010's. One is Auto and the other is Manual transmission. Also the 2009's are manual.
Without a included options list the pricing means nothing. So basically not enough info from their website.
You need to know how to play the game. First you need to know what you are looking for and what minimum options you want to be there. Next do your research and see where the price sits for the item you are looking for. If on the low end its higher than you looking for, then you need to look for an older car. Next go to a site like Trader.com and set it to a 100 mile radius. This way you will know the pricing for different towns. Once you have a hit, go see the car (bring a printout with you). At the dealership show them the printout and tell them you want to test drive it (they will probably copy your drivers lic). During the test drive they will ask you things that sound like small talk, give them no personal information. If you like the car, dont tell them. They will take you to desk and start the bargaining process. Low ball them from the start (lets say $2000 less than what you are willing to spend). You will spend the next half an hour bargaining. Once the number is close to where you want it to be but they are not agreeable, stand up quietly thank them for their time and walk away. Go to your car, get in and make a fake phone call and read some alternate printouts you brought with you. If they are hungry for the sale, someone will come out and knock on your window. Go back in. They will usually offer you something to drink, take it. Some more small talk will occur and usually a manager might step in. This is where/when you go for the deal. Make your cash offer including all fees plus what you want fixed on the car. If they counter the offer, tell them the same dollar amount again but you are willing to pay cost on the the repairs and want free labor. If they counter offer within $1000 and accept the rest, close the deal. This process takes approx 2-3 hours and is a battle of the wills.
Here are some notes: Do not bring a partner with you, period. Arrive at the dealership mid-week after 5pm. Do not fall in love with the car.
During closing, I request all fluids & belts be changed as part of my repair list (and I've gotten them to change tires too).
If its a used Subaru you are looking for, look to buy it from a non Subaru dealership (I tend to stay away from generic used car lots) as they want to unload as soon as possible what doesnt fit in their floor plan. Also you will usually not have problems with getting the title.
Actually NeilVA's advice is not that bad. There is a book out from a ex-car dealer telling the story of how to buy from dealerships and how to sell used cars to dealerships.
My experience is they will keep you in their offices for hours to wear you down. I found it best to look at the vehicles early in the day. Than return 1 hour before closing to make the deal. At that point they want to go home as much as you do.
I would pay with a personal check and not cash.
I would buy from a private party instead of a dealership.
i guarantee that you would have a much better buying experience if you didnt walk into the dealership with a complex. a good majority of sales guys are not scumbags.
This is a business transaction and not a play date. Whats with the attacks and unneeded foul language?
Quote:
Don't follow this advice.
Then offer your own game plan. This game plan works for me. This works for my neighbors. This works for my friends.
The OP needs to hold the dominant position since she has the upper hand. Cash in hand and no trade-in.
I have typically got better deals by buying from individuals. Check the want ads. This not only usually gets you a better price, you get to meet the previous owner, you can size them up as well. If they are not the kind of people you would even consider loaning a car to, maybe you don't want to buy from them.
If you don't know how to evaluate the car yourself, even though you are looking at near-new as far as I am concerned, a pre-purchase inspection would be worthwhile. IMHO anyway.
If you don't want to pay for a PPI, at least try all the controls - do all the lights, blowers, wipers, etc work? If you can talk the owner into it, see if you can go to Autozone and check for any codes - some codes don't set the check engine light. Some codes are trivial such as those generated by someone not tightening the gas cap enough - but it's data, go get it.
Don't be in a hurry. If you "sense" something is wrong with a car, don't buy it. Plenty of good subliminal stuff to pick up on if you will let yourself.
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