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The car dealer sales are on. Is there a simple purchase-price formula to avoid the confusing sticker data and sales pitch?
It would be great if there's a simple "percentage" I could deduct from the "sticker price" or "dealer invoice price" and not budge. Or would deducting $500 from either of those prices be about right?
I'll be using a bank loan, so no dealer financing. I'm focusing on a great sales price before the rebates.
I'm looking for a new 2012 Corolla 5-speed CE (base economy model). Don't want to pay for any frills.
Couldn't find end-of-year price for this model in pricing guides. I figure it's lower as 2013 models arrive.
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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You will pay for the frills anyway if they only have cars with them in stock. I doubt they have very many with a 5 speed. Honda and Toyota are far less cooperative about dealing than the others. About the only advice I can give you at Toyota is to make them an offer $2,000-3,000 less than their sale price and be prepared to walk away if they come back with "we can't go any lower, that's already a discounted sale price." Then move on to the next dealership and eventually you may get a counter offer below the sale price, if at least $500 take it. Unless you are in an unpopulated area, there are many to go to. Here for example I can think of about 5 Toyota dealers within 1/2 hour drive.
Thanks for the good advice. When you mentioned sales price -- do you mean sticker price or dealer invoice price? I'm not sure which price to focus on when I make a lower offer. I appreciate the help!
Try using truecar.com to get an idea what a fair price is.
Watch for the add-ons, some dealers may still try the undercoating/ sealant treatment business. I bought recently and saw that there was a few hundred in dealer fees that were not common a few years before. Rather than argue just regard all this stuff as part of the price. If the out-the-door price isn't good be ready to walk.
Helpful website. Still wondering if I should focus on the "sticker price" or the "dealer invoice price" when I try to bargain lower. Hope to focus on just one sticker dollar number. Thanks.
It's like getting bids for a remodel. Get quotes from 3-5 different dealers. Then beat up the two lowest against each other and someone will offer you a deal that is fair.
I would test drive other cars, the Corolla is the most boring eco car out there and has the one of the lowest MPG at 34. The new Altima gets 38MPG.
You'll never beat the dealer, so try to be happy with getting the best deal you can. They do this every day, all day, and if the deal doesn't work to their advantage, it won't happen.
An old buddy traded one of his cars every two years, and every time I got to hear about how he took the dealer yet again. After a few years I stopped arguing with him and just let him enjoy his perceived victory.
And or if you can catch a salesman in a lie...... Ho Ho Ho..... If you do, add on all sorts of things you can't image they would give you and keep asking until someone gets upset. You are always free to walk out...
Of course it works best if you have a roll of green stuff in your hand.... Way things are these days a gun in the other hand might be handy too.
Thanks, PokerMunkee, for mentioning another model. Seems there aren't many newer Corolla 5-speeds for sale these days, so it's good to have other high-mpg options.
Vmaxnc, good perspective on trying to beat sales professionals. I just don't want to get ripped off like I have in the past. Still wondering if I should bargain down from the sticker "sales price" or from the sticker "dealer invoice price"?
Mac_Muz, I just caught a salesman in a lie today. Instead of just dumping him, maybe I'll try to work that to my advantage. What a headache.
If you are set on a man pedal, check out the Chevy Cruze, Mazda 3, Ford Focus, and Hyundai Elantra. I think you'll enjoy the Mazda 3 much more than the Corolla.
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