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A Automatic SUV I would go with the largest V6 they offer and save the Turbo DI 4 bangers for cars with a stick shift or DSG like other have said to stay in boost and get the most power out the engine.
Yes, you need a manual transmission to get the best out of any turbo.
I had a Volvo turbo with the stick and it was a blast to drive. The 4 cyl performed like an 8 cyl.
My early (2002) MINI Cooper's got a supercharger instead of a turbo and there's no lag at all with that.
Not having owned a turbo for years, did they ever correct the bearing wear problem? The bearings had their own oil feed, and when you shut down a hot motor it no longer circulated the turbo bearing oil - leading to failure. When the bearings start leaking it literally sucked oil as much as it did air and injected it into the exhaust.
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The issue with older turbos was that if you turn the car off after a spirited drive (when the turbo is still hot), it would cook the oil in the bearings so you had to either let the car idle for 2 minutes or many people installed turbo timers that would let the car run for a preset amount of time before turning it off so you can lock the car and go about your business. Today's modern turbos are both oil and water cooled and basically don't have this issue under any normal circumstance. I still wouldn't turn the car right off after a few quarter mile sprints but accelerating hard to merge a few lanes over, pulling off the highway and driving a half mile to your house no longer requires the wait.
I agree about the manual tranny being the key to enjoying a turbo. Even so, we need to remember that all turbos will have that "lag" that some people hate, and most enthusiasts love.
I've grown to love it. Particularly with a larger aftermarket turbo you get that saunter off like a jet engine feeling. As others have said, a manual trans or DSG is key here because with manual gear selection you can put the turbo in the rpm range where spool is not a problem. The upgraded 20G turbo in my Genesis doesn't do a whole lot under 3500rpm but 3500rpm is only a single downshift away.
I had a 2003 Saab convertible with a 2 liter turbo motor and a 4-speed auto. The drivetrain was smooth and powerful with no apparent lag, very nice running car.
A TURBO does not take over from an idle as it is Exhaust driven and needs the RPM in order to function.
A 4 CYL with a TURBO will work like a 6 CYL when under Boost.
The Turbo works best when fast pickup is needed when going on a Onramp of a FWY or for passing needs as the RPM is already up there and a light touch of the gas pedal is all that is needed.
I know this as a Mechanic and TURBO owner of over 35 yrs.
Last edited by Steve Bagu; 08-03-2013 at 01:27 PM..
Reason: Extra Info
Some turbo fours put out enough low rpm torque that the manufacturers limit boost at low speed in lower gears... rather than deal with wheel spin, torque steer, and transmission issues a number of front wheel drive cars are limited so they feel lethargic from a standing start but are surprising powerful at higher speeds.
IIRC - For best off the line acceleration with a turbo and auto tranny rev the engine against the torque converter while holding the car with the brake. When the light starts to go green release the brake and floor the gas. Adjust power as needed to control wheel spin.
Manual tyranny's require a different technique. Just before the green load the engine with the clutch while adding throttle. When the light goes green floor it and dump the clutch. Control wheel spin as needed.
With all turbocharged engines exhaust flow and temperature are the major factors in turbine driven boost. By pre loading the engine both are increased just before the actual power is needed.
The most significant thing is to leave first and be in the straight ahead lane that does not end in 100 feet.
By getting the hole shot I have shut down some pretty impressive cars with my old V-8 Station wagon.
"You have been shut down by Santa Clause."
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