Gonna keep it positive. Late-80s/early-90s F-150s. (F150, vehicle)

[bentstrider]

After the numerous spankings I've gotten over my purchase of a Jeep Liberty CRD, I get it.
Got a bad deal, didn't do enough research, brain cells flicker,. yada-yada.

Anywho, I've been looking at getting a $3k-$5k F-150 from the above mentioned year as a back-up/towing motor vehicle to supplement those few days I'm not riding my bicycle.
Also, as a "rescue option" for in case my Lib decides to take another dump in the near-future

Seeing as how I don't want to go into further debt and would rather deal with the Lib until paid off, the above price range seems fairly realistic for me.

Perusing the usual online auto classified sites, I've come across quite a few with the 302, 5-spd manual, and 4x4.

Engine and tranny-wise, I hear from various sources that these types of trucks are fairly easy to deal with and to me, they seem to be fairly easy for myself to deal with in the DIY repair department.

Fuel-wise, I'm not too concerned since I hardly ever drive enough times for that to be an issue for me.

So, what's the general consensus on this pickup from everyone here?
We're talking between 80,000 and 150,000 miles, ranging between $2000-$5000 on the "trader" sites and other classifieds.
Too high? Too low? More problems than they're worth? Best bang for the buck?

As I said, I'm trying to simplify things in this area and go towards something that I could figure out and live with.

[raveabouttoast]

For that price range, I'd look at 98+ F-150. They're fairly reliable and may be in better condition than a late 80s truck.

The downside is that's the year they did the redesign, so some people aren't crazy about the styling.

1998 Ford F-150 Reliability - MSN Autos

[Hemlock140]

Pickups and especially F-150s hold there value but I'd still go for something newer than about 1995, you should get it for under $4,000. Older than 1993 has the old freon based AC, and the older technology airbags, in addition to the additional metal fatigue and rubber cracking from age. That engine and manual trans are OK, but watch out for worn out bearings in the 4x4 transfer case which are $1,500+ to replace.

[GTOlover]

since I Own a 91 F250 with a ZF 5-speed manual tranny I say avoid the 302 and find one with a 351 it actually gets better fuel economy and is alot better to move a truck that size down the Road.

Remember the stock 5.0 EFI only came with 185HP Stock and the 351 or 5.8 EFI came with 210HP and about 50-60 more Ft-lbs of torque from the factory.

Anyways I went with a 91 to not have to deal with Airbags and all that other safety Cr@p and be able to Work on it myself... The 1980-96 F-series trucks and Full-size Broncos are very easy to work on for a DIY and shade tree mechanic.

Also the F-150 has the Mazda based 5-speed it is a little weak in the F-150 for heavy towing/hauling duty so try to find a F250 with a ZF 5-speed is what I recommend.

[rbohm]

my advice is to buy the best truck you can find for the money. dont worry about the year, or the drive train, since you are just going to use this as a rare driver and it will sit most of the time. for instance, a six cylinder/automatic will do you just fine as will a 460/4spd. if you find two trucks in similar condition, with similar prices, and one is a six and the other is a 302, get the six. if one is the 351 and the other is the 460, get the 351. on the other hand if one is the 302 and the other is the 351, get the 351. in the end for your purposes, the condition of the truck is more important than anything else.

also note when looking at trucks, set your list of priorities. for instance;

1: 4x4
2: V8
3: short wheel base
etc.

this way when you look at trucks, you are looking at 4x4s first, then the next item in line etc.

[GTOlover]

Well if I were the OP I would be looking at the 1994-1997.5 F250 and F350 SRW 4x4 with the 7.3 liter Power stroke turbo diesel with a ZF 5 speed manual tranny

one of the Best trucks one can get even the automatic is a Power stroke F-series is fine as long as Rust and the mechanical condition of it are fine.

[TrapperL]

While the 302 engines were a good engine, they were anemic, especially in a 4x4. The 351 had issues with being an oil burner and frankly wasn't much more on power. Ask questions about the transmission. If it's an E4OD make sure it has been rebuilt. The factory 4x4 E4ODs lacked the right pickup tube for the fluid and it wasn't uncommon for one to burn up even though full of fluid. Avoid any pre 2004 Triton engine- that's the 4.6 or 5.4 engines. They have short spark plug threads and spitting a plug is common in these engines. Sometimes a Timecert works, sometimes it requires the head to be replaced.

[MrWillys]

I got to go pick out a 1990, and my boss paid cash for it. Later when I left that company I bought the truck. It was a 300 inline with a 5spd. I sold it to my sister inlaw in 2004 with 240,000 and the original clutch. This truck still runs today. In 2008, I bought a 94 302 4R70W with 95,000 miles. I just gave it to my daughter with 186,000 and she sold it for $1850 with new brakes, tires, and cold AC. I liked the 94's auto, but that old 90 was a great truck.

I now drive my 01 I ordered new with 87,000 on it today! I've been saving it.

[GTOlover]

thing is most of these trucks will have a lot of aftermarket or replacement parts on them so take your time and pick the best truck you can and heck the 4.9 liter I-6 (300Ci) is legendary in being a tough & Reliable engine that goes 300K+ miles with ease if maintained.

The 4.9 I-6 may lack top end power but they have a lot of low end torque and are great buys if you can find one

[North Beach Person]

If you're paying $3-$5K for a truck that's 25+years old you're way overpaying.

My 03 F150 has a book value of around $3K. And it would be perfect for you.