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Old 11-25-2015, 07:15 AM
 
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If you have new struts installed and the rear end handles bumps the same as before whatt else could be the issue?

The struts have a basic installation so it seems like it might be false to think the struts were not installed correctly. How can they be installed in-correctly?
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:16 AM
 
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Was there something wrong with the car to begin with?
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:34 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpm1 View Post
Was there something wrong with the car to begin with?
All 4 wheels bounced all around on bumps of all degrees. minor bumps, etc.
Bouncing along on a rain soaked highway = possible hydroplane especially the rear. Struts were replaced and little or no benefit noticed.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:40 AM
 
Location: Prosper
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Check the rear control arm bushings for wear, also the rear sway bar/end links. Could be that your springs are old and shot too. Springs get old and sag, and then it doesn't matter what struts you have, you're going to be hopping over things.
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:20 AM
 
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Need a lot more info here.

What kind of car. How many miles on the suspension? How are the tires? general condition of other suspension components? Did you have a mechanic inspect the suspension for obvious defects?
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:27 AM
 
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1. I had countless struts done. Cheap, expensive, adjustable, OEM. Result normally lasts about 2 weeks to 2 months, then it goes back to what it was before.
2. The best success, so far, that I had was to use Quickstrut from Monroe. I had new struts, OEMSpec on my Camry front, 4 months down the road replaced them with QS and actually quite happy for over a year now. Start thinking about tossing KYB OEM rear struts and replacing with QS too.
Thing is, OP, you have more than struts to do the job. Springs, all kinds of bushings, damper plates in strut towers. Also, there are struts and there are struts. I'd never again do say Gabriels. Or, any unknown origin strut off ebay.
Btw, if you want quick fix for your issue, load about 200 lb bag of sand into the rear end. Be surprised.
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:52 AM
 
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Go back and read sticky number 3 (3rd post from the top on the main automotive forum page) then try your question again.
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:16 AM
 
14,477 posts, read 20,657,588 times
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96 Mitsubishi
175,000 miles
The struts were made by Monroe and cost about $55 each. We were thinking they were installed improperly after watching the mechanic put them on. They did not know what they were doing based on our observation. The rubber boot was put on differently on one than the other. Channel locks were used to hold the piston rod still to remove the top nut which is hard to remove. Other issues as they struggled to get the new struts in the springs. We questioned it and the boss man said they had changed dozens of them. We say ha. Cancelling the job would have left us the cost of labor to remove the new ones and put the old ones back on as well as the labor already spent. We decided the cheapest way out was to leave and consider installing new ones ourselves. We decided on a mechanic because the spring tool is somewhat risky to use with the high tension on the spring.

Why do conditions of tires have anything to do with it. After the struts we put new tires on the rear and the back end bounces badly.
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:22 AM
 
Location: Prosper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howard555 View Post
96 Mitsubishi
175,000 miles
I'd be willing to bet that springs would make a world of difference on your car.

Struts really don't have that much force in them. You don't say what model Mitsubishi, but if it's a typical passenger car from them, the struts can be compressed by hand, they are not firm at all. Therefore, it's not the struts that are holding the weight of the car at all, it's the springs. The struts are to help keep your tires/wheels from bouncing, but it's the springs that are supposed to keep the CAR from bouncing.
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:33 AM
 
17,623 posts, read 17,682,949 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howard555 View Post
96 Mitsubishi
175,000 miles
The struts were made by Monroe and cost about $55 each. We were thinking they were installed improperly after watching the mechanic put them on. They did not know what they were doing based on our observation. The rubber boot was put on differently on one than the other. Channel locks were used to hold the piston rod still to remove the top nut which is hard to remove. Other issues as they struggled to get the new struts in the springs. We questioned it and the boss man said they had changed dozens of them. We say ha. Cancelling the job would have left us the cost of labor to remove the new ones and put the old ones back on as well as the labor already spent. We decided the cheapest way out was to leave and consider installing new ones ourselves. We decided on a mechanic because the spring tool is somewhat risky to use with the high tension on the spring.

Why do conditions of tires have anything to do with it. After the struts we put new tires on the rear and the back end bounces badly.
At that age you should have had a reputable shop do a full suspension inspection before having struts installed. There may have been other problems besides the struts that needed more immediate attention. As someone said, the springs could have also been part of the problem. Springs last a long time but they aren't permanent. If you're a fast driver and you need to change the springs, look into performance springs. These springs are made to slightly lower your car and provide stable high speed cornering. If you're main concern is comfortable ride, stay away from performance springs.
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