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It shouldn't be sucking in air, to the point of it actually reaching the heater matrix, radiator, or engine, just by getting a bit below the neck. As long as the level is higher than where both the hoses join the tank, it should be okay. I hadn't considered that it was so cold there, that the engine wouldn't heat up enough. Still though, if it's sucking in water, and no water is escaping anywhere, and you're keeping it topped up, you won't be doing any more harm the the car, than has already been done.
A thought on the top hose, and the thermostat, is that there could still be an airlock there. Does it feel like there is water in the top hose? It would feel different from air, and if there's air with water, it will make a sort of squelching noise when squeezed. Actually, squeezing the hoses a little can help with bleeding the system.
It will take a while for all the air to get out, but a small amount is nothing to worry about.
If you do want to make sure it's topped up all the way to the top, and you're comfortable with getting a little coolant spillage, then feel free to do it that way. Just remember to take excess out when you're happy all is working, and definitely before taking it out on the road, with the cap replaced.
OK, thanks BECLAZONE!
Yeah, my radiator opening at the top hose in like within 1" of the top of the neck. Sometimes when I let it drop like 2" below, coolant and bubbles still shoot out from over the funnel that is inserted, so it is going to be a mess no matter what. I am going to try bleeding it again today, with the front end raised on ramps again. I will check the hoses to see which has water. I haven't been able to find a good diagram online that shows me the exact location of the thermostat and bypass hose. Everyone is wrong. Plus some areas are hard to get to and I don't feel like getting burned.
The other thing is my overflow tank hose flows from the radiator neck I guess to the bottom of the overflow tank, but I can't see everything since it is concealed. ON my old Chevy Cavalier, the hose flowed from the radiator neck to the top of the overflow tank. And the upper radiator hose is super narrow, unlike the one for my Chevy Cavalier, which was wide.
On those vehicles, it helps if you raise the front of the vehicle to bleed air from the cooling system. Park on a hill, use ramps, or jack up the front end. Air will move to the highest point easier.
Yeah, my radiator opening at the top hose in like within 1" of the top of the neck. Sometimes when I let it drop like 2" below, coolant and bubbles still shoot out from over the funnel that is inserted, so it is going to be a mess no matter what. I am going to try bleeding it again today, with the front end raised on ramps again. I will check the hoses to see which has water. I haven't been able to find a good diagram online that shows me the exact location of the thermostat and bypass hose. Everyone is wrong. Plus some areas are hard to get to and I don't feel like getting burned.
The other thing is my overflow tank hose flows from the radiator neck I guess to the bottom of the overflow tank, but I can't see everything since it is concealed. ON my old Chevy Cavalier, the hose flowed from the radiator neck to the top of the overflow tank. And the upper radiator hose is super narrow, unlike the one for my Chevy Cavalier, which was wide.
Newer cars, with everything hidden, are a nightmare to work with, so you can only do your best, which I may add, it seems you are doing.
You'll feel really satisfied when you,ve got it all sorted out, I know I always do.
Unclog the heater core preferably with a garden hose and enjoy nice, warm heat.
Most systems self-bleed.. if it does, great; check coolant level in the morning, and eventually you won't have to add or too off any. If it's a system that is notorious for air pockets, then use the method of raising the car where the cap is highest and idle until fan kicks on twice. Re-seal, drive, check in morning.
Unclog the heater core preferably with a garden hose and enjoy nice, warm heat.
Most systems self-bleed.. if it does, great; check coolant level in the morning, and eventually you won't have to add or too off any. If it's a system that is notorious for air pockets, then use the method of raising the car where the cap is highest and idle until fan kicks on twice. Re-seal, drive, check in morning.
I was thinking heater core as well. Not sure how hard it is to get to on your model but typically they are a massive PITA.
I was thinking heater core as well. Not sure how hard it is to get to on your model but typically they are a massive PITA.
You don't have to get to the heater core to backflush it, you can just disconnect the heater hoses at the other end which is usually fairly accessible.
A sticking heater valve is another possibility, and probably more likely given the intermittent nature of the problem.
Thanks guys! The problem is my apartment lease prevents me from doing car work on the premises, and the garden hose has had the handle/turn dial removed anyway since they don't want tenants using it. Plus I am not sure I want to go crawling around on my back at my age to find the heater core, lol. Ugh.
We'll see. I am in the market for a new car, and may just keep this one to drive locally only, at least just around town or may be up to one hour away. Others have said it is old enough (2007) with enough mileage (285,000) with enough damage and other problems that I should not bother investing more money into this. They consider it "totaled". We'll see. I would like to have at least heat though and know for a fact it is not going to overheat in the mountains on the way to Reno or South Lake Tahoe.
The car sat cold for two days. Overflow tank was still way more than full when I checked before going out. Then, when I opened the radiator cap (cold), a ton of air and cold coolant shot out. It stunned me. That tells me the system was over-pressurized. So I can assume no leaks.
Questions:
Why did this happen, and why is the overflow tank not taking care of the excess air or putting more coolant in the system like it used to? The overflow hose is hard to trace, with stuff in the way; and with the tank itself, it is hard to see if it is clogged. I can't even really tell where or how the hose attaches to the overflow tank (no way near the top). Somewhere near the bottom, but it appears to be going inside something that is not the tank. I am not sure.
The car sat cold for two days. Overflow tank was still way more than full when I checked before going out. Then, when I opened the radiator cap (cold), a ton of air and cold coolant shot out. It stunned me. That tells me the system was over-pressurized. So I can assume no leaks.
Questions:
Why did this happen, and why is the overflow tank not taking care of the excess air or putting more coolant in the system like it used to? The overflow hose is hard to trace, with stuff in the way; and with the tank itself, it is hard to see if it is clogged. I can't even really tell where or how the hose attaches to the overflow tank (no way near the top). Somewhere near the bottom, but it appears to be going inside something that is not the tank. I am not sure.
You know you replaced that radiator cap, well, you may want to put the old one back.
You know you replaced that radiator cap, well, you may want to put the old one back.
Ugh, they threw it away at the mechanic's shop last week. I didn't think there was any reason to keep it. But why would I want a cap that leaks air? Is the explosion of coolant and air a problem? How would a radiator cap cause that?
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