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When you're installing the new plugs; on some cars its hard to first screw them in by hand (not enough space for your fingers) Instead of using the socket to start them (and risk cross threading) take a short piece of rubber fuel line that fits snugly on end of plug and pop it on the end of the plug and use it to start the threading of the plug. You stand less chance of cross threading this way. The Haynes manual might even suggest this but I've got a few short various pieces in my spark plug box I've been using for years.
Changing spark plugs is super easy that even a housewife can do. I changed the spark plugs on my Ford Escort in 5 minutes or so. It is not worth going to a shop for something this easy.
How about changing the plugs on a 4.6 L Triton? Anybody?
As I understand it, the thing you need to do is put the plugs in a Triton without using any anti-seize, apparently this will avoid them blowing out under combustion pressure.
That does not sound right to me, don't go on my word, but just check this out with someone who knows Ford Triton engines.
If it's similar to a 4.6 Modular, the plugs are on the intake side of the head like a 928 Porsche, I would want to have compressed air available to blow any dirt/dust that made it past the spark plug wire seal, but if that's on straight, this should not be an issue.
Depends on what car/truck it's in. Generally trucks are easier than cars, and the less power accessories the easier the job is.
FWIW, I really favor NGK sparkplugs in American engines. Usually better than OEM, in my experience.
But my experience does not include the Triton. Maybe somebody who has been working on these will post up.
All vehicles will be different....some are harder to do plugs than others. Anyone ever had to change plugs on a 69 Mustang with a 428 Cobra Jet? When they were new you had to pull the engine to do it, they were so close to the shock tower.
Changing spark plugs is super easy that even a housewife can do. I changed the spark plugs on my Ford Escort in 5 minutes or so. It is not worth going to a shop for something this easy.
I would gladly pay your housewife $300.00 to do the other 6 plugs for me. It took me about 30 minutes to change the #1 plug and wire and about 45 minutes to change the #2 wire and plug.
I'm still waiting for someone who knows this engine. It's in an F150 fwiw. The dealership charges 3.5 hours to do it and the local mechanics says it can take 6.5 hours.
5 minutes sounds a bit unrealistic to me, but thanks anyway.
You see that #6 plug? I do. That's the easy one. The #5 plug requires bracket removal. #7 and #8, I just don't know. Where's that housewife?
See #1 and #2? So do I. Piece of cake... not! Still a pain in the ass. What about 3 and 4? If I strip that aluminum block, that's a $3000.00 mistake... unless I find a guy who's dealt with this and Tritons "Spitting" spark plugs. Anybody heard of this?
I would gladly pay your housewife $300.00 to do the other 6 plugs for me. It took me about 30 minutes to change the #1 plug and wire and about 45 minutes to change the #2 wire and plug.
I'm still waiting for someone who knows this engine. It's in an F150 fwiw. The dealership charges 3.5 hours to do it and the local mechanics says it can take 6.5 hours.
5 minutes sounds a bit unrealistic to me, but thanks anyway.
You see that #6 plug? I do. That's the easy one. The #5 plug requires bracket removal. #7 and #8, I just don't know. Where's that housewife?
See #1 and #2? So do I. Piece of cake... not! Still a pain in the ass. What about 3 and 4? If I strip that aluminum block, that's a $3000.00 mistake... unless I find a guy who's dealt with this and Tritons "Spitting" spark plugs. Anybody heard of this?
I seriously was not lying. It only took me 5 minutes to change the plugs on my car. Here is the engine bay of my 1991 Ford Escort. I only have 4 plugs, and they are all right on top.
Well, McGowdog, this is apparently one of those PITA jobs, I think you would be well-served to put in the 1-piece Champion plugs that 3-Steps suggests.
This is the class of job that I DIY because I can't trust anyone else to sweat all the details I will sweat doing it. I think if you manage to separate the lower part of the plug, you will almost certainly have some FOD issues getting the broken off part out.
Kroil penetrating oil is probably your friend here. Unless there is a reason not to, I'd put some good Wurth or similar copper based anti-seize on the plug threads on re-assembly. Keep in mind I have heard you should install plugs bone dry into the Triton. That does not sound right to me but I am just repeating what I have heard.
If you can get your hands on a copy of that TSB, that would probably be the best advice you can get.
If you can catch a Snap-On truck, at least the ones around here are quite happy to sell to us laymen. There are no doubt excellent special tools available from Snap-On, if you plan to keep this truck, I would spring for them.
I don't know what to tell you, other than you don't *have* to change all 8 plugs in one session, you can do 2 or 3 at a time till you get them all.
If one is a super PITA, I'd resist the temptation to just leave the old plug in place, as the carbon buildup will probably get worse with extended mileage.
Word to the wise: check service rates for common, periodic service for a particular vehicle *before* you buy it. If Mr. Plaid Pants at the stealer gives you a song and dance about how very many miles you can drive before you have to do the service, stare at him like the idiot he truly is, and repeat your question loudly and slowly, as if talking to a retarded child...
Some LEV and ULEV BMW cars have the wonderful feature of integrating the fuel filter into the gas tank. So when you need a new fuel filter, at least the party line is you replace the gas tank, fuel filter, and fuel pump en-bloc, to the tune of about $3K. Needless to say, unless I find out a way to avoid paying $3K for this service, I won't be buying one of those cars...
Vegas, I envy you. Your vehicle looks easier to work on plus gets about 2 or 3 times better gas mileage.
Thanks for the suggestions folks. Turns out my engine isn't the hardest one... like if I had the 5.4L engine.
Well, I went to Advance Auto today to have them run the Check Engine code and my #4 cylinder was in fact misfiring. A sales rep there overheard me saying I'd pay someone 200 to do it and he put me in touch with a guy who doesn't speak English, but his son did. Alberto did my plugs and his son did the wires. 200 buck well spent and my truck runs like a raped ape once again!
See where this plug hole was changed?
New insert on this one is steel and not aluminum. This is what I didn't want to do to my engine.
#4 plug here was misfiring. 155,000 miles later, I'm not surprised.
Let the experts go to work
4 experienced hands are better than two non-experienced hands.
Some of these old plugs were .070 and over
the son put this thing together from scrap. A 14 hp motor, but has to fix broken axle. They ought to enter Junkyard wars! These guys work out of their back yard on the east side of Pueblo. Diesel mechnic... good guy to know.
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Needless to say, unless I find out a way to avoid paying $3K for this service, I won't be buying one of those cars...
