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I guess the OP wanted you guys to blame Midas for all the problems. When you failed to do this it (unknown male/female is an it) they got all huffy.
OP - get off your ego and go through the heater fan circuitry with a flashlight looking for disconnected wires or blown fuses and an ohmmeter (I assume you know what an ohmmeter is) for bad grounds. You can even test the temperature sensor with the meter. You figure out how or spend the bucks for somebody else to do this stuff.
Btw I own an 18 yr old Buick and a 16 yr old Subie. Because I live in a condo and have no easy way of disposing of the oil I take the cars to a garage. Last time the Buick needed a change they noted a suspension link to the front sway bar had broken. (I had wondered why the old barge was rolling so much on corners) they fixed it without asking because that is what I expect them to do.
This is an FYI for everyone. The first icon below your name has a picture of either a man or a woman. The OP has a picture of a girl () so she is indeed a woman.
My advice is the same, whether the OP is male, female, or somewhere inbetween.
I think it's highly unlikely that the engine running a little hot is down to something the garage has done wrong during the oil change.
I can't be any clearer ?
I'll write this in big letters.
The OP had an oil change done, then didn't check the oil for four months, and found it was EMPTY.
By the time the oil light comes on, it's too late. the damage is done.
This is WAY more likely to have damaged the engine than having an oil change done.
This could be a cause of the hot running. On a near 100,000 mile car, it could equally be a head gasket, thermostat, blocked radiator, incorrect ignition timing, or many others.
Personally, my opinion is that the OP has no knowledge of mechanical things, and the lack of routine maintenance is a much more likely cause of problems than bad workmanship.
I assume the guy is mad at me while I offered up some decent info. I knew he would be angery with me too. I don't deal in artifical fantansy well, or calling my trade simple, when I have around $55,000 tied up in tools.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac_Muz
'We' techs own and PAY for our tools, every last one of them. No dealership gives tools to anyone ever.... No independant does either, and not every tech in the shop is a good tech.
Well put. At least $50,000 myself, not to mention all the unpaid evening hours spent attending classes and seminars just to keep up with today's constantly changing technology.
Steve Citeron has plenty of strange and weird special tooling, but they are metric.
There are 3 types of auto tooling basicly, which is the American SAE inch system the metric system, and the Brit standard. After that there is Withworth, but these are kt reallfir for the automotive industry, and are more like American plumbing where you need a big wrench for a 1/2 inch pipe fitting.
Depending on how much truble things will be these odd wrenches have a place in a car / bike shop too.
The jensen has Type 4 SU carbs, not side updraft. These SU carbs were made in several sizes, but in the Jensen the bore was 1 inch and 3/4".
Inless my Brit Std tools fit a rusted bolt ot nut in either the SAE or metric system which they do at times, I have no use of them much since I have no clue where English cars are old enough for these tools to be used anymore.
I may be wrong, but was told the Brit Std system was created pre WW-1 and so no one else could use there bolts and nuts for basic war time replacement parts. The sizes indicated on the wrench refer to the bolt shank size, not the caps. The threads run at other than SAE or metric pitch, so they can only be used with their own thread, the same as SAE won't fit metric.
This isn't any big deal.
The last use for Brit Std for me in the real world was with SU needel and seats and in Volvo, who was last to change away from these sizes... All I can guess is Volvo bought a mess of needle and seats in the Brit pattern, and used them up after the system was abandoned.
At the same dates Brit cars were no longer using the Brit Std. You need these Brit tools to deal with cars like the MG Td, cars from the late 40's and back. Brit tooling was really gone from the world by my time, but I had minor need of them.
I got sick of buying new tools because of torx, not that i don't have torx, but at that pointI objected to buying new tools for a cap change. There was torx, then there was anti theft torx, as if someone was going to steel yer tail light lenses.. And a slew of wanna be designs, and it was enough of enough and i wanted out of 200 bucks a week for tools. I resisted torx and used allens in them, and I resisted tools like Saab used for clyinder had bolts where you needed a friggin 12 point male 12mm drive tool to yank the head.
I hated wanna be engineers who said torque in three stages to 180 foot pounds, then turn the wrench another 90 degrees as if the hood and fenders weren't in the way! What kind of garbage thinking is that anyway?
I can recall when reaching under the dash didn't mean a trip to ER, because the stamped parts were deburred.. Now to go under most ahny dash you may as well reach into a barrel of razor blades blindfolded.
Todays engineers TO ME seem to be button pushers with no dirt under their fingernails, and haven't yet figured how to deal with the blue screen of death, and are way to code happy.
I don't understand why it should take yanking un-related parts for 4 hours just to get at a EGR valve, because it looked good on CAD.
By next year i expect i might have to buy a digital hammer. This way I can virtually hit something, but not really hit at all.
Some of these cars have 50 miles of wire and more computers than NASA uses in the Space Shuttle, and people call this simple.... Then best of all some little guy sitting in a dark office somewhere rights a manual in some gibberish no one can understand. It will say some thing like "To chamg batery, remove cap but tail stock, remove main spring coil, incert battry, instail cap butt stock plug. " Which is fine, except that info is inside where you wanted to go in the first place
When my Dad was alive I let him read the manual for Datsun, on alternators. He was a WW-2 Submariner, and a electrical engineer, building tuneable magnatrons as guidance systems, probably still in use in the Space Shuttle today. He threw the book in the trash. He just couldn't read gibberish.
Dee Mechanic here. Are you serious? Well if you've NEVER replaced an oil filter from ANY place than at the bottom then you never changed oil on a 87 Camry sedan! The oil filter is located underneath the manifold and you reach it from TOP! Check your facts pal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobman
The bottom line, I'm afraid, is that you have what appears to be no mechanical knowledge.
Your car has developed a fault, and you are looking for a cheap way out of paying for fixing it yourself.
The fact you seem to think you don't need to top up the oil inbetween changes is indication of that, perhaps Midas should use magical ever-replenishing oil ?
Your car is getting old, and has covered many miles. of course it's going to start using oil !
If you'd got a puncture on the way home, would that be Midas' fault ?
Neither, in my opinion is this.
Some people's kids, huh
I'm afraid you have no idea what you're talking about either.
Unless I'm very much mistaken, the Eclipse oil filter is reached quite easily from the underneath of the car, IIRC, it's on the right, near the wheel, and would be a simple replacement were the car on a lift, or even a jack. It would be nigh on impossible to reach from any other direction.
Why would ANY service centre try to reach the filter from above ?
They wouldn't even need to go near the radiator, never mind "rip out wires".
Ok, I accept, accidents happen, and, as you said, a dropped wrench could dislodge a wire, and, depending on the nature of the job, it is possible to forget to re-connect one.
I can assure you, there aren't many (if any) cars out there which would require anything electrical to be removed to change a filter.
However, in all my time as a mechanic, I have NEVER changed an oil filter from any other position than underneath the car.
Again, the OP is most likely making a link between two seperate incidents.
Dee Mechanic here. Are you serious? Well if you've NEVER replaced an oil filter from ANY place than at the bottom then you never changed oil on a 87 Camry sedan! The oil filter is located underneath the manifold and you reach it from TOP! Check your facts pal.
Yep, I remember the oil filters on my 1987 Camrys (I owned 2) had them up there... also on my moms 1988 Mercedes S-Class with the 6-cylinder, its on the back of the engine... a little high up... you take it off from up high.
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I remember this thread... I was thinking the OPs car (Mitsubishi) perhaps had a blown head gasket. The other day there was a late models Eclipse on the side of the road boiling steam out from under the hood... I went back and even the middle of the engine was smoking where it was so hot.
Hate to say it but that model is not exactly known to have bullet proof engines. With age and miles they burn oil and blow engines quite often. Check the prices on craigslist and you may wonder why they sell so cheap ..well now you know...Get ready to replace the head gasket before long....sorry but its coming
I have a 2000 mitsubishi eclipse. I've had it for 5 years and love my baby it's never let me down
Well I decided to take her to Midas last week for an oil change. I wanted to go to a new place because I felt like my mechanic wasn't putting in enough oil all of a sudden 4 months after an oil change my oil light would come on (no leaks) and I would be completely out of oil. I usually put 10w40 in my car. Midas put 5w30 and now if I am sitting in traffic my thermostat idle will creep toward HOT but it doesn't sound like it's overheating and as soon as I begin moving it drops back down to below the half way point (where it use to always stay) between hot and cold. What does this mean?? What did they do to my baby??
Eclipses are notorious oil burners when they have been around the block. Didn't you know?
Hate to say it but that model is not exactly known to have bullet proof engines. With age and miles they burn oil and blow engines quite often. Check the prices on craigslist and you may wonder why they sell so cheap ..well now you know...Get ready to replace the head gasket before long....sorry but its coming
How is this possible with a Japanese car?? I thought they were so perfect!
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Oil Filter only at bottom????
