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Old 06-15-2015, 01:21 PM
 
Location: Hookerville, formerly in Tweakerville
15,129 posts, read 32,335,027 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catdad7x View Post
I'm not allowed to close doors in my house. I was informed many years ago that it violates a rule in the Official Housecat Handbook, and my 4 girls take any infraction very seriously.

Seriously, having your cat sleep with you is of the best parts of having them in your life IMO. Wouldn't have it any other way.
This is all true. Snickers doesn't even like it when I go to work, and he lets me have it when I get home, then he pesters me all night long.
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Old 06-15-2015, 02:34 PM
 
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I've noticed my cats hair has gotten longer and thicker since I recently got him. When we first brought him home his fir didn't seem nearly so thick. I'm going to need a good brush for him. Any ideas? How often do we need to trim his claws, and how can you get a cat to allow you to even do it? Thanks
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Old 06-15-2015, 02:46 PM
 
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You're starting to see the results of the improved diet! I use regular fine combs on my cats, the little black ones they (used to?) give kids on picture day at school.

However one of my cats did steal my boar bristle hair brush, she loves me using that one her. I think the comb takes out more fur, but the brush is a bed time treat.

They each have their own routine for combing. You'll have to figure out what works for him. He'll let you know.

Here's my method for nail trim training:

How to train a cat to accept nail trimming. My Method. (it works!)

Get kitty used to having his/her paws touched. You can do this any time kitty is relaxed, stroke the paws, hold them between your fingers and apply pressure, when the claws extend, stroke in between the claws and so forth. But you also want to make the training more purposeful. I call that Paw Work.

Use treats for incentive. Something wet and smearable is best. Depending on kitty's preference, softened butter, yogurt, even cream cheese can be used. You don't need to use a lot, just make sure it's soft enough to smear. You can place a tiny dot (less than pea sized) on the mouth, and kitty will be licking it off as you work.

Decide on a position you intend to use for nail trimming, whatever is most comfortable for both you and your cat. I sit on the floor and hold the cat in my lap (upright). I used to have the one kitty perched on the table, draped over my arm, because I thought that's what she preferred, but lately I've found she prefers being held in my lap on the floor, like the other cats.

**Paw Work** (do daily during training)

Get treats ready.

Get kitty into position. Tell him/her what you are doing and why. Speak in a soft voice, use kitty's name a lot, offering many reassurances, throughout the process. Be confident.

Place a tiny blob of butter (or other soft wet treat) on kitty's mouth and while kitty is working on treat, take each paw and hold it between your fingers and thumb and gently press to extend the claws. Use this time to look carefully at the claws. Notice where the quick is, the pink part, you want to avoid snipping close to that, as it will hurt and bleed.

After each paw, give a treat (another lick of butter, or whatever). Then release kitty and give one more treat.

If kitty struggles at first, be firm and hold on. Speak softly and reassuringly. Kitty needs to learn that struggling will not get him/her released, and that what you are doing is not going to hurt in any way.

Of course, use your own judgment about if s/he is getting TOO upset. You don't want the cat to get traumatized, but you don't want to give in too easily either. If you do release kitty, give a 15 minute break, then resume, until all paws are done.

When you think kitty is ready, instead of just looking at the claws, snip the tips. I suggest just starting with the tips until you gain skill, to avoid getting the quick. As you become more practiced you will be able to cut them a bit shorter.

If you can only get one tip in a session, that's fine. Slow and easy does it is the the way to success. Next time you might get two tips. And so on.

As you snip, continue to smear little dots of butter (or other treat) on the mouth as needed to keep kitty occupied.

When it's all over, give a final taste of the butter (or other) by offering it on a spoon or your finger, for kitty to lick off, instead of smearing it on kitty's mouth. (this is important, so s/he knows that's the end of it for that time)


PS Just remember there is no rush for kitty to learn to accept this. It takes as long as it takes. One of my cats goes berserk if her paws are touched. It took over three years of daily Paw Work before she would allow even one snip of a claw tip.

It took another three years to get to the back feet. She is now 10 years old and I can do all four paws in less than 2 minutes! She hates it and growls warnings through out but with her little smears of butter on her mouth she's too busy licking to bite or struggle. She trusts me and knows, even though she hates it, that I would never hurt her.

If you could hear her, making yummy noises and trying to sound fierce with her growling at the same time! GRRRRRyumyumyummyRRRRI'MWARNINGYOUmmmmumyummyRRRRR

I no longer do the daily Paw Work with her, but I did continue it for a long time.
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Old 06-15-2015, 05:20 PM
 
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Great reply, thanks!
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:45 AM
 
Location: NW Penna.
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Grooming: The cats pick, depending on the type of haircoat, ha-ha.

I have two cats who have a double coat. There is an undercoat that sheds like crazy and the top coat that doesn't. Both of them love to be scraped with a shedding blade then raked with a rake implement with big teeth. Evidently their thicker coats keep those implements from touching their skin? I get tons of hair out, and the cats come running to get shedded. They both adore their sheddin' blade. But, the other two cats won't stand for that.

The gray Oriental likes to be brushed with a horse brush that has coarse bristles. They are like broom bristles, old fashioned broom, whatever its called. He only likes coarse broom bristles, hates shedding blade and rake. He doesn't shed very much.

The long hair cat with sensitive skin and long soft hair will tolerate being combed with on old Fuller Brush nylon comb, evidently because it doesn't scrape his skin.

I don't use wire slickers. No cat likes them, in my experience, and cats like to move while getting groomed and imo wire slickers pose a risk of eye injury.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:39 PM
 
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I guess I will turn this into my random question thread instead of starting new ones.


Couple things: took him to the vet and his conjunctivitis wasn't completely gone. He still gets some tears out of the one eye, but it doesn't seem painful to him. Should I take him back in again?

He loves sitting in the living room watching the birds and squirrels outside. As much as he'd love to go outside I think it would be entertaining to watch him hunt a bird. I am going to keep him in because I know it's best, but both of us want him to go outside. How do people allow their cats out and get them to come back home? If I put him outside right now would he bolt away, or would he stay in the yard then come back. Hypothetical question since he's staying inside. My wifes grandpa asked why we didn't let him out every night to do his business lol.
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:03 PM
 
Location: Phoenix, AZ
20,396 posts, read 14,667,898 times
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Definitely do not simply let him loose outside.

You have 2 safe options. There are harnesses that you can get (a regular collar is not adequate.) The best ones I've found are the walking jackets that velcro snugly around the chest. You use that with a leash.

Or, you can set up a wire enclosure that is safe for the cat to go out in. I've known people who have made some pretty elaborate ones.
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:07 PM
 
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Even with a harness can't he easily get fleas and ticks?
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:52 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonybarnaby View Post
Even with a harness can't he easily get fleas and ticks?
Yes, and that is one of the many reasons to keep a cat in, you don't have to put poisons on him to keep him parasite free. Depending of course where you live also.

The trick is to make a rich indoor environment for him. Lots of elevated spaces, scratching areas (a variety of shapes and surfaces), daily interactive play (teach the kids how to play with him properly) some sunny window ledges with a bird-feeder outside for Cat TV.

As for the weepy eye...are you giving him the l-lysine? Is the discharge just clear tears, or something heavier? Color?
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:53 PM
 
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He will be laying on his side and if you rub his stomach he seems to like it but he will bat his paws at you and playfully bite. Well I assume it's playful, but is this something cats don't like? I can't read cat body language. He's always moving the end of his tail and it's up so I read that means he's happy. Any signs to look out for?
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