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I haven't tried sta-bil for gas yet,but have had good luck with Marvel Mystery Oil and Seafoam...I used a type of sta-bil in my kerosene shop heater when I shut it off this spring..guess ill know shortly if THAT worked.
MMO is a good product as well.
The damn ethenol in gas now really gums up the works on small engines.
Location: Democratic Peoples Republic of Redneckistan
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I hear you..its awful..I have a honda powered pressure washer and it gets used a couple times per year..I learned the hard way to just put enough fuel in it to do the job and then run it out before I store it again..the carbs on those things are a bear to get to and since its a 6 1/2 pull start that has the extra drag of having to have water running thru it prior to starting it can be a real pain...have you used the Sta-Bil in kerosene heaters before?I have two and last year they were a nightmare to get running after storing thru the summer for some reason..I had to drain 10 gals out of one and put a new plug in it to get it to run and a guy suggested the Kerosene sta-bil...hope it works cause I despise that smoke smell in my shop and it coats everything (I paint in there and THAT ain't cool for the oil film to be everywhere)
Don't use kerosene heaters so I haven't had to deal with that problem.
My suggestion would also be to firm them up at least once a month.
Whenever I drain the fuel from my equipment I make sure that it had STA-BIL or another of the additives I mentioned before running through it right before I dump the fuel. Since all my fuels have additives in them it's never an issue.
Location: Democratic Peoples Republic of Redneckistan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogdad
Don't use kerosene heaters so I haven't had to deal with that problem.
My suggestion would also be to firm them up at least once a month.
Whenever I drain the fuel from my equipment I make sure that it had STA-BIL or another of the additives I mentioned before running through it right before I dump the fuel. Since all my fuels have additives in them it's never an issue.
That's a good idea...I've sold my backhoes and other diesel equip which I always used additives in due to the crappy bio diesel,but I guess I'm going to have to get used to doing it with everything now...I have a large forced air wood furnace at the shop,but when it gets really cold I back it up with the big salmander heaters to get everything up to painting temps and then shut all heat sources down,paint and then air purge for vapors and then fire everything back up..I have to have them in the winter or stay home...the cold doesn't bother me personally,but paint hates it.
I have an old faithful Wizard 14.5 twin blade riding mower. Reading other guys problems starting I have one also....this mower has always run like a top, starts on first or second crank. I hit a good stump the other day and it died, I then disengaged the blades, restarted got it back over to my house, on the slab, turned it off, checked the blade bent all to hell.
Ok , I restarted the mower, ran fine, drove it around the yard to make sure and then parked it until I could get to town for new blades and a spindle. Fairly new battery, clean, full oil, new plug although the old plug still had good fire. Plenty of gas.
It is hard to crank like the battery won't push it, I pull the plug and it will crank for days, on and on feul vapor spitting out, plug sparking, I try to slip the plug back in while cranking then it goes to hard crank still no start. I stop trying, let it all dry, put the plug back in and it seems hard to crank??
Put a full charge on the battery. If you still have the problem check for loose wires to the starter, and or dirty battery terminals. If all checks out it's very possible your starter will need replacing. When they get worn they require more amps, that the battery just cannot deliver.
I have an old faithful Wizard 14.5 twin blade riding mower. Reading other guys problems starting I have one also....this mower has always run like a top, starts on first or second crank. I hit a good stump the other day and it died, I then disengaged the blades, restarted got it back over to my house, on the slab, turned it off, checked the blade bent all to hell.
Ok , I restarted the mower, ran fine, drove it around the yard to make sure and then parked it until I could get to town for new blades and a spindle. Fairly new battery, clean, full oil, new plug although the old plug still had good fire. Plenty of gas.
It is hard to crank like the battery won't push it, I pull the plug and it will crank for days, on and on feul vapor spitting out, plug sparking, I try to slip the plug back in while cranking then it goes to hard crank still no start. I stop trying, let it all dry, put the plug back in and it seems hard to crank??
You could simply jump your mower from another battery to see if that makes a difference. I don't think that is your problem; but it could be.
When you changed the bent blades did you tilt the mower? You could have bent the bracket holding the mower safety switch. Or, you could have filled the crankcase breather with oil (if it was plugged). The latter could explain hard cranking. You could remove the crankcase breather and check the small drain hole in the bottom to see if it is clogged. You should also check your oil level and make sure that you did not overfill or that gas did not mix with your oil.
One other possibility, if you have a B&S, is a bent flywheel key. I have been out of business for many years and I am not sure without the model number and serial number; but it could have a white metal flywheel key. Here is one link that might help if this is the case: How to Inspect Flywheel & Key for Replacement | Briggs FAQ.
Let us know how you make out and if you get it running again.
PS Disregard the comment about the safety switch - you stated that you had spark. I did not read that carefully.
You could simply jump your mower from another battery to see if that makes a difference. I don't think that is your problem; but it could be.
When you changed the bent blades did you tilt the mower? You could have bent the bracket holding the mower safety switch. Or, you could have filled the crankcase breather with oil (if it was plugged). The latter could explain hard cranking. You could remove the crankcase breather and check the small drain hole in the bottom to see if it is clogged. You should also check your oil level and make sure that you did not overfill or that gas did not mix with your oil.
One other possibility, if you have a B&S, is a bent flywheel key. I have been out of business for many years and I am not sure without the model number and serial number; but it could have a white metal flywheel key. Here is one link that might help if this is the case: How to Inspect Flywheel & Key for Replacement | Briggs FAQ.
Let us know how you make out and if you get it running again.
PS Disregard the comment about the safety switch - you stated that you had spark. I did not read that carefully.
I think the OP said it has two blades, which makes it belt driven. (No keyway) The Op also said it was running after the fact, so no oil, and or compression problems. It sounds like it's an electrical (battery) problem or the starter is giving up the ghost. FYI I have read everyone of your past posts and respect your knowledge on small motor repairs, but this one I don't believe you are correct. You are pointing the op in the wrong direction.
I would be inclined to vote with Fisheye in that there is an over abundance of licquid in the combustion chamber slowing the cranking. Either oil or gas which occurred during the installation of the new blades and spindle. JMO
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