Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I've been looking at riding mowers in the 42-46" cutting range, and I've narrowed it down to 3 mowers. I'm not familiar with how reliable these brands and engines are in the latest models, so I'm hoping someone owns one of these and can provide input.
I have a steep hill that's only about 10 ft long (bottom to top) and then you're over the top (30-45 degree angle?), and I go straight up and down it. It's about 30 feet wide. The rest of my huge yard is flat. I plan on buying a mulching kit, and I want enough power not to leave clumps everywhere.
I have not been in business for a long time and things change and I have made 'mistakes' buying tractors similar to these. Right now I have an Ariens with the 20 HP Briggs (which is very similar to your Husqvarna).
There are some features that I would recommend that people should consider when buying these machines. Little things like the gas tank can drive you nuts. My Ariens has to have the worst possible gas tank of any mower. It's located under the hood and in between the motor and the dash. It has an air space in the top of the tank and you have to use a funnel to fill. If you do not keep checking, while filling, gas will spill all over the engine - which you don't want with a hot motor. My machine is three years old; maybe they corrected it - but I doubt it?
I have heard complaints about a new plastic carburetor bowl that B&S uses - I have not seen that. My Ariens has had problems with the starter solenoid - but otherwise I have not had motor problems.
Rocks, roots and low stumps are one of my biggest complaints with most of our lawn tractors today. The manufacturers simply don't give us enough height adjustment and they use white metal spindles. Many of these tractors only allow you three and a half inches of height adjustment - that is not enough. My Ariens says three and a half inches; but it is more like two inches. My property is covered with rocks, roots and the low stumps - which is typical where I live. I now have many areas that I cannot mow and I used to mow with older tractors that had better height adjustment. I also hate white metal spindles on the cutting decks. The best were cast iron/grease fitting (but I don't think most of these companies offer them today). I would take steel spindles over the white metal spindles (they do not shatter when you hit something; although they can bend or break). The very first time I cut with my Ariens it cost me ($100) for parts and I did the labor. Just check the height adjustment if this is an issue with your property.
What sold me on the Ariens was the switch where I could bypass the safety feature that would not allow me to back up with the mower running. I hate tractors that turn off every time you put them in reverse. However, if you have young kinds running around; that would be a prudent safety feature. Our house if located far away from the neighbors and I do not have to worry about this issue.
Now, getting back to the subject; I also have one short hill similar to what you describe. Most of these tractors do not have the weight for good traction on any hill with that kind of pitch. They also have the wrong tires. I try to cut this section only going down that hill. I had an older Gravely that had better traction with it's weight. On wet days, going down this slope with the Ariens, is more of a controlled slide. On dry days it does do better and I can even go up the slope (but your slope could be greater of less than my slope). Of course you would never try to cut side hill; that would be suicidal.
Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
44,550 posts, read 81,117,303 times
Reputation: 57750
I have a slope with about that angle of only about 3', and find that it's best to do it sideways, back and forth, using reverse because the tires will spin, or the angle causes some grass scalping when you hit the level part. I don't think your lot is steep enough to use pressurized oil, which adds a lot to the price, but it might be worth getting 4WD.
That short a slope should be no problem except possibly scalping. Those units are just a little too small for me, but could do fine for you. Look carefully at the deck and how sturdy it is. Mine has reinforcing on the front and a center front anti-scalping wheel. Look what is involved in changing a deck belt. Some units require lots of work. My Husky has a tension lever to flip which makes it easy, but the safety shields over the mandrils collect tons of grass and are difficult to clean out without removing them. The small front tires on all tractors like this are a design flaw. The amount of lateral force on them when turning is significant, they can slip on the layer of fresh cut grass, and in my case with a few different mowers those tires lose pressure and develop leaks.
If you don't have a Lownes or Home Despot credit card, ask about discounts if you get one to use to purchase. I was able to get a 10% discount, which nicely paid for an extended warranty - something that does get used if you have any significant acreage.
Huskys will have parts, the early Cadets have a reputation of lasting for decades, Poulan has a lot of low cost stuff. Of those three, I'd probably go with the Husky, but I would also do as you are doing and search for more info.
That short a slope should be no problem except possibly scalping. Those units are just a little too small for me, but could do fine for you. Look carefully at the deck and how sturdy it is. Mine has reinforcing on the front and a center front anti-scalping wheel. Look what is involved in changing a deck belt. Some units require lots of work. My Husky has a tension lever to flip which makes it easy, but the safety shields over the mandrils collect tons of grass and are difficult to clean out without removing them. The small front tires on all tractors like this are a design flaw. The amount of lateral force on them when turning is significant, they can slip on the layer of fresh cut grass, and in my case with a few different mowers those tires lose pressure and develop leaks.
If you don't have a Lownes or Home Despot credit card, ask about discounts if you get one to use to purchase. I was able to get a 10% discount, which nicely paid for an extended warranty - something that does get used if you have any significant acreage.
Huskys will have parts, the early Cadets have a reputation of lasting for decades, Poulan has a lot of low cost stuff. Of those three, I'd probably go with the Husky, but I would also do as you are doing and search for more info.
I have a Lowe's 10% off coupon. Home Depot said they would honor it if I chose one of their mowers.
I went by Home Depot today, and all of the Poulans had a Forward/Reverse lever, which drives me nuts. I really like the pedals for propulsion. I'm pretty sure the Lowe's website and YouTube videos showed pedals (see above picture in my original post). Maybe it's an option you can choose. Regardless, the Poulan is out. I was pretty impressed with the features on the Cub Cadet after looking at it in person. I don't know much about the Kohler engine, but it was easily accessed and the hood comes completely off in about 5 seconds. I'm definitely leaning that direction now.
I mow a steep hill with my Cub Cadet 1050LTX all the time, I think this is my 4th summer and so far no problems. My only complaint with Kohler engines is sometimes they'll get sort of hydro locked (for lack of a better term) and I'll have to keep bumping the starter around until it releases the pressure, then it starts fine. I forget how many hours I have on mine, but I mow three acres, and I use at a rental property as well. I always change the oil filter once a year and use Rotella T6 oil. You'll need a grease gun to grease the steering zerks as well.
I actually used to work part time at TSC, and I sold many mowers, the most common complaints were with the ones with the CVT type transmissions that use a belt and springs. The hydrostatic models are way more reliable.
I mow a steep hill with my Cub Cadet 1050LTX all the time, I think this is my 4th summer and so far no problems. My only complaint with Kohler engines is sometimes they'll get sort of hydro locked (for lack of a better term) and I'll have to keep bumping the starter around until it releases the pressure, then it starts fine. I forget how many hours I have on mine, but I mow three acres, and I use at a rental property as well. I always change the oil filter once a year and use Rotella T6 oil. You'll need a grease gun to grease the steering zerks as well.
I actually used to work part time at TSC, and I sold many mowers, the most common complaints were with the ones with the CVT type transmissions that use a belt and springs. The hydrostatic models are way more reliable.
It's been like this since new, and it only happens maybe 1 out of every 20 starts.
I have started many mowers, and to me the Kohlers always seem to have a bit of compression built up when being started, they just don't sound as smooth on startup as the B&S engines do.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
I'm excited to pick it up tomorrow!
