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Location: East of Seattle since 1992, 615' Elevation, Zone 8b - originally from SF Bay Area
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After it has been mowed 2-3 times, so the blades have stiffened up and are strong enough to pop back when stepped upon. Don't mow until it's about 1-1/2" high, and even then the mower wheels will leave tracks. Any sooner they will survive but take longer to fill in, and look bad because the blades will remain flattened to the ground showing your footprints.
After it has been mowed 2-3 times, so the blades have stiffened up and are strong enough to pop back when stepped upon. Don't mow until it's about 1-1/2" high, and even then the mower wheels will leave tracks. Any sooner they will survive but take longer to fill in, and look bad because the blades will remain flattened to the ground showing your footprints.
I don't think I have chance to mow till next spring, but I do need to walk on it to plant some fruit trees along the fence.
Take a grass rake along, and when done, retrace your steps and rake gently to bring the blades back upright. That should help.
Thanks for information. Not sure how long will it take to grow to 4" for first time mowing.
Do you mean: when it gets to 4", mow it down to 3" as first mow, then when it gets back to 4", then mow second time? Then gets back to 4" and mow the third time?
It does not take long to get from 3" to 4", correct? I mean the mowing interval should be short.
I'd stay off it as long as possible but you won't do too much harm if you have to walk across it a couple times. I let my new grass grow tall, 5-6" before mowing it with a push mower set as high as it will go for the first month or so before driving the rider over it. I'd also recommend getting a lawn roller across it once you first spread the seed and fertilizer down.
I'd stay off it as long as possible but you won't do too much harm if you have to walk across it a couple times. I let my new grass grow tall, 5-6" before mowing it with a push mower set as high as it will go for the first month or so before driving the rider over it. I'd also recommend getting a lawn roller across it once you first spread the seed and fertilizer down.
Can you use Milorganite as the fertilizer when doing a new lawn from seeding? In other words, fresh black topsoil, milorganite, then grass seed, then (lots of) watering.
Can you use Milorganite as the fertilizer when doing a new lawn from seeding? In other words, fresh black topsoil, milorganite, then grass seed, then (lots of) watering.
I did my fall overseed this year simultaneously with Milorganite. It's sprouting easily all over. I say go for it.
I did my fall overseed this year simultaneously with Milorganite. It's sprouting easily all over. I say go for it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Bear
I only use Scotts Starter Fertilizer and have great results.
MilorgaNITE, BEING BASICALLY AN ORGANIC FERTILIZER (human waste), MIGHT BE GENTLE ENOUGH TO NOT BURN THE NEW GRASS SHOOTS. Give it a try.
Sorry about he caps!~
I ended up doing hydroseeding in this case instead. It was only .10 cents a square foot, and they did it today.
Now I just need to keep it a bit wet, and after it comes up, about in a month, I can still do Milorganite over the top.
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