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Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,705 posts, read 58,031,425 times
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I love my mini splits, BUT.... get one with manual over-ride controls (not 100% dependent on a flaky remote). I just lost 2 weeks worth of heat due to a silly remote going bonkers. I do have the 'follow-me' function (remote can act as thermostat and you can place it in a cold spot to get that area up to temp (as well as bring other areas OVER temp...))
In 20+ yrs of using mini splits in Asia, I have not seen a Ground Source mini split...(it seems simple / good idea) (sorry I cannot stomach calling them 'geo-thermal' (I am from 'Hot Springs' territory... THAT is geothermal... Ground Source heat pumps are Ground Source heat pumps, nothing more...). Very ez to install (use a dozer / trackloader and make a 'bed' or an excavator or trencher to do the loops (if soils allow.))
Consider 'annualized solar' (heat your (insulated) GS bed in summer from attic / excess heat)
I agree that an air to air Mini Split / std HP will NOT capture enough BTU from passive solar for sustained winter heating. Air to air is pretty inefficient transfer of BTU and takes a LOT of flow to capture a little heat.. You could also consider a water source HP and use your trombe wall filled with water (large culverts / tanks on end). problem... controlling the heat in the home. Storing EXCESS heat indoors can get REALLY HOT! (thus... ALWAYS multi zone your infloor heat in sunny rooms).
In 20+ yrs of using mini splits in Asia, I have not seen a Ground Source mini split...(it seems simple / good idea) (sorry I cannot stomach calling them 'geo-thermal' (I am from 'Hot Springs' territory... THAT is geothermal... Ground Source heat pumps are Ground Source heat pumps, nothing more...). Very ez to install (use a dozer / trackloader and make a 'bed' or an excavator or trencher to do the loops (if soils allow.))
I was referring to traditional geothermal, not coupled with a min split. While I love the concept of the system, I just don't feel that it would work out for us financially.
I believe that I will put our mini split condenser on the south side of our house. There is a perfect place on the north side for it, but I fear that this will be too cold at times. I originally wanted the north side since the front of our house is the south side, but I'm sure with a bit of effort, I can blend it in a bit.
And thanks for all the replies everybody. The info is all very helpful.
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
34,705 posts, read 58,031,425 times
Reputation: 46172
Quote:
Originally Posted by dubthang
I was referring to traditional geothermal, ...
Traditional Geothermal is limited to places like Yellowstone, and natural Hot Springs. I have heard of VERY few homes (In USA) that get to tap traditional geothermal, tho Idaho heats a lot of it's government buildings that way. It is often WAY spendy infrastructure to tap natural hot springs. We have friends in Colorado that have 180F natural hot springs. It takes very little geothermal at that temp to heat their house! (Thus 50F soil (ground source Heat Pump), is FAR from the true geothermal advantage.
Whatever you do with a minisplit.... HAVE a BACKUP heat source!!! REQUIRED!!
South side will be a big help to mini split (except in summer HEAT) I have 5-6 ft overhangs which help in summer. See if you can use the SE side (shady in summer afternoons. I have seen condensers rigged with 'misters'. I hope your bedroom is on the north side!
Joe, how loud would you say your GE water heater is? I've been looking into heat pump water heaters lately, and I think we will go that route. I plan to install some sound deadening into the walls of the mech. room to keep thinks quiet. Currently, we have an all-in-one, ventless washer/dryer that works by condensing. It takes a lot longer than normal to dry, and it quite loud. We are planning on using a more traditional stack setup unless I find something better.
I agree with you on the costs of the ground system. I just can't justify it when a mini split is so cheap. A 3.0 COP will only be achieved in our neck of the woods for part of the year. There will be some days where the temps are close or below the cold weather ratings bringing the COP closer to 1.0.
The GE is about as loud as a small outdoor A/C compressor unit (a bit of a whir). As mentioned, I don't know how much you can seal up this unit, because it also needs air and it also cools down the air around it - if you keep that air very cool then it will become inefficient. It want something like 67F ambient air to get the 3.1 EF .
From the geospring website
Quote:
To put this in perspective, at a 68F ambient air temperature, the GeoSpring has an Energy factor of 2.9 and saves up to 67% of the energy consumed by a standard electric water heater. At 50F, the EF reduces and the savings is reduced to a little moe than 50%. This means that even at ambient air temperatures as low as 50F, GeoSpring can still save more than 50% of the energy used by the second largest energy consuming appliance in your home. That's still a very substantial amount of energy savings.
Take a look at the newest heat pump dryers - i believe they are very different than the pure condensing units.
Whirlpool hybridcare is what I have and it dries quite well. Takes about 1:30 and comes out very dry. As a plus, you aren't blowing out 120 CFM of air for an hour in the middle of winter. It does put out a bit of heat. The Hybridcare is also a little noisy.
Also, just to throw it out there, there is a new direct vent heater called the Empire 92%. It's a 92% condensing wall furnace. I think the mini-split will be more cost effective though.
This is what I was referring to since this is often the terminology that is used here in Maine by retailers of said systems. I never said that anybody was wrong or right, just that we are talking about two different things.
Whatever you do with a minisplit.... HAVE a BACKUP heat source!!! REQUIRED!!
Why? We've got a Mitsubishi Mr Slim mini split with hyper heat and it's been running flawlessly (and cheaply) since 2007.
I mean, without power, even pour main house propane heat won't work. Luckily, we've not lost power, even in hurricanes, in the 15 years we've lived here.
Why? We've got a Mitsubishi Mr Slim mini split with hyper heat and it's been running flawlessly (and cheaply) since 2007.
I mean, without power, even pour main house propane heat won't work. Luckily, we've not lost power, even in hurricanes, in the 15 years we've lived here.
What are your lowest temps in winter? I know we will experience lows far below what a min split can handle so we will also have a wood stove.
You are correct in that your propane system won't work without electricity. Many people are in this exact situation, and when the power goes out, they freeze. Power outages during winter in Maine are a harsh reality due to severe weather. Our house will also be passive solar so we should gain some free heat as long as the sun is out.
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REQUIRED!!
