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VERY much nicer, and the springs are ridiculous. I'm actually gonna go test the mags now, now that I've made them fit.
Just waiting for the slim grips, grip screws and bushings, the third Wilson magazine, and the recoil kit to get here.
Edit: Test-fired the gun again, this time with the Wilson magazines. They worked flawlessly, but the first magazine failed to lock the slide back when it was empty. Upon disassembly for cleaning, I discovered that the last 1/2" of the recoil spring had bound up and deformed. It actually broke when I gave the ends a little tug to see if I could straighten it back out. Glad I didn't have to use this in a SD scenario, and now I am very glad that the new recoil spring and guide rod kit are on their way.
VERY much nicer, and the springs are ridiculous. I'm actually gonna go test the mags now, now that I've made them fit.
Just waiting for the slim grips, grip screws and bushings, the third Wilson magazine, and the recoil kit to get here.
Those slim grips are very nice. You'll be able to pack it around IWB if you want very easily. A Les Baer Thunder Ranch Special has thin grips on it from the factory.
Those slim grips are very nice. You'll be able to pack it around IWB if you want very easily. A Les Baer Thunder Ranch Special has thin grips on it from the factory.
I know someone who owns one of those.
Three things-
1. I shot the last remaining +P ammo I had. Not gonna use it anymore, at least, not in a compact 1911 (I have a feeling that the full size ones could run it just fine). Too much wear on the frame.
2. Wilson magazines rock.
3. When taken apart for disassembly, the recoil spring was deformed, and broke when I started stretching it a bit. Glad I have the recoil kit with the flat wire spring coming- I have a feeling it will not deform as easily.
I have a 1934 Colt .45 National Match pistol in near mint condition. During a discussion with my neighbor about guns, I made the mistake of showing this pistol to him, and he at once suggested that I have the gun "fixed" with a Stevens adjustable rear sight; and that he knew a guy that worked for a local gun shop who could do it for me in his garage on the cheap. I carefully took my gun from his hand, and told him (politely) that I would just as well leave well enough alone.
I have a 1934 Colt .45 National Match pistol in near mint condition. During a discussion with my neighbor about guns, I made the mistake of showing this pistol to him, and he at once suggested that I have the gun "fixed" with a Stevens adjustable rear sight; and that he knew a guy that worked for a local gun shop who could do it for me in his garage on the cheap. I carefully took my gun from his hand, and told him (politely) that I would just as well leave well enough alone.
That's a good plan! Only the most knowledgeable smiths should get into the SERIOUS workings of a 1911. I own sight pushers for GLOCK, Sig Sauer and S&W M&P. I don't want one or need one for 1911s. I also am not whacking with a brass drift punch on a set of Tritiums either. Fitting a 1911 barrel? No way Charlie! I've even seen Springfield Armory's custom shop screw one up and need it sent back. The file and Dremel is off limits for me on my 1911's except MINOR fixes and detail strips. That's ALL the way down. A fieldstrip is what you do after you shoot it. What Jordan is doing is ok. He isn't "smithing" on that 1911. He is "tuning it" to run. Spring changes, grips, etc. No big deal. That mag cap he filed to fit wasn't either. It's not part of the gun persay. If ruined, you just throw it out for a couple of bucks and get a new one. No big deal. File on the sear, mess with the trigger bow etc? To hell with that. Mine's going in, and I don't trust any around here. I want the best. If you aren't the best, you're not getting inside my 1911. *Dials Wilson Combat...Nighthawk...NOVAK...Springfield Armory Custom Shop* etc.
I have a 1934 Colt .45 National Match pistol in near mint condition. During a discussion with my neighbor about guns, I made the mistake of showing this pistol to him, and he at once suggested that I have the gun "fixed" with a Stevens adjustable rear sight; and that he knew a guy that worked for a local gun shop who could do it for me in his garage on the cheap. I carefully took my gun from his hand, and told him (politely) that I would just as well leave well enough alone.
If I were your neighbor I'd be visiting you with a big handful of hundred dollar bills, a big handful.
There's a special chambe in Hell for people who mutilate wonderful old guns like yours. That chamber is right next to the one for people who ruin irreplaceable gun screws because they won't bother to use the correct screwdriver.
New grips and hardware came in today. They are amazingly thin. I never realized how much "grip" was on my pistol till I removed the Pachmayrs and the rubber finger-grip installed underneath, installing the new grips will probably remove around .3" from the total width of that part of the gun.
Problem is that one of the grip bushings was overtightened and refuses to come out, and I don't want to damage the frame by trying to be more aggressive in its removal. Don't wanna strip the threads, but I really want to see what it feels like with the new grips on. Dang.
New grips and hardware came in today. They are amazingly thin. I never realized how much "grip" was on my pistol till I removed the Pachmayrs and the rubber finger-grip installed underneath, installing the new grips will probably remove around .3" from the total width of that part of the gun.
Problem is that one of the grip bushings was overtightened and refuses to come out, and I don't want to damage the frame by trying to be more aggressive in its removal. Don't wanna strip the threads, but I really want to see what it feels like with the new grips on. Dang.
It's LocTite most likely unless it's crossthreaded. Try heating it with a heatgun or hair drier. Crank it all the way up to max and heat it. If that doesn't work, dust it lightly with a LP torch. Don't turn it purple, just get it hot. If it's stainless, the carbon will wipe off.
ALWAYS make sure you use a hollowground screwdriver on grip screws and bushings guys. The type that take the magnetic tips or "smith" screwdrivers. The difference being, you don't have to order the magnetic ones. Sears and Lowe's have them!
I think I'm gonna take it to the gunsmith to take care of it... don't want to cause unnecessary damage to the poor thing.
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