Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
A house I'm looking at for sale has every window, door frame, base boards, etc. framed in this icky plasticy fake wood stuff. It feels like heavy plastic, looks like a laminate (with the fake wood grain). If I sanded it and then used a primer, would paint stick to it for any length of time, or will I have to budget to have them replaced with real wood?
Wow! Is it like contact paper?? If it is you will need to remove it, then use something that removes the adhesive from the wood before you lightly sand, then prime and paint....
Wow! Is it like contact paper?? If it is you will need to remove it, then use something that removes the adhesive from the wood before you lightly sand, then prime and paint....
I don't think its contact paper... it feels (and sounds, when I tapped on it) like vinyl, so imagine a wood grain colored vinyl... it looks fine from far away, but I'm kind of a wood snob, I guess.
A house I'm looking at for sale has every window, door frame, base boards, etc. framed in this icky plasticy fake wood stuff. It feels like heavy plastic, looks like a laminate (with the fake wood grain). If I sanded it and then used a primer, would paint stick to it for any length of time, or will I have to budget to have them replaced with real wood?
Despite the following posts telling you otherwise, there is no known product to paint over those plastic moldings. Plastic moldings are basically melted down recycled soda bottles. This plastic is fed into a heated shapped barrel, mixed, and forced into a mold cavity where it cools and hardens to the configuration of the mold cavity. This is where the term comes from "injection plastic or injection moldings". Painting this product, no matter what kind of prep you do, paint will not stick.
Trim is inexpensive. Just buy new. you can get wood finger joint which is paint grade pine or you can get soft MDF which is obviously also paint grade and is very inexpensive. That material is already pre primed saving you another step.
Every product has it's place but in my career I have not found a place for that plastic fake wood grained or solid color moldings. What junk, you are right.
Correction: Trimming out a window that is in the bath tub will be completely water proof.....to say nothing of the rotting window though.
What in the world could it possibly hurt to try? I hope that didn't sound snotty....because I certainly don't mean for it too, but what would it hurt to clean it, give it a good coat of bonding primer and a coat of paint. I've painted a whole lot of "un-paintable" things, and it's worked just fine until I could afford to change them out. Sometimes, you've just got to punt. You could be pleasantly surprised!
Sand, prime and paint that sounds like a lot of time and labor not to mention the expense for something that might not look too good and paint might not stick. I think you would spend less time and aggrevation by buying pre stain trim. It's not that expensive or difficult to install.
You're going to have to pull the trim off anyways in order to paint it properly, and most cheap trim isn't going to look right once it's been pulled off and put back on the walls. I'd just go ahead and put new in from the start because I suspect that's what you'd end up doing regardless of a painting attempt.
Replace it with something you like. Trim is fairly cheap, and painting it is not going to work.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.