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Location: The Raider Nation._ Our band kicks brass
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See, you say that you buy a new tank every time. That leads me to believe that you are exchanging tanks. That eliminates the leaky valve theory. I really think it's not empty. You should be able to tell a weight difference between empty, and full tanks.
Next time you use it, shut off the tank, and disconnect the hose when you are done. Don't reconnect until you are ready to use it. See what happens then.
Just make sure you cover both ends to keep out mud daubers.
Location: The Raider Nation._ Our band kicks brass
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A scale works just as well. The empty tank weight is stamped on the collar. It will most likely say "tare weight". Anything above that weight is all propane.
There are three separate valves inside of a propane tank. All three need to be open for the gas to flow.
The overfill valve is a float valve that shut shuts off when the tank is full. Shake the tank, and listen to it flopping in there.
The shutoff valve is a gate valve that you control by turning. Clockwise is closed. Counter clockwise is open.
There is also a check valve at the hose connection. It's a poppet valve that gets pushed off of its seat when the hose is connected. You can disconnect the hose without shutting off the tank. The poppet will stop the flow of gas.
I think that sometimes that valve goes weird, and needs to be reset.
I haven't done the research, but I believe it may also act like a hydraulic fuse. If the gas flows too quickly, it shuts off thinking there is a leak.
Shutting off the tank, and draining the lines is what I believe causes this condition. That instantaneous flow to refill the lines fools the safety valve.
I really don't believe it is possible to leak 20 pounds of propane without smelling it from a hundred feet away. You would know if it was really leaking.
"I really don't believe it is possible to leak 20 pounds of propane without smelling it from a hundred feet away. You would know if it was really leaking."
We didn't smell ours leak, but most of the time it was leaking was cold enough that we weren't out there. Wind can also play a factor. The leak was really the only possibility in my case. What it reinforced to me is to not EVER store one of these thing indoors.
I'm sure people are gonna blast me for this, but seriously, go with natural gas. That is, if it's available. We've been using a natural gas grill from over 10 years and LOVE it. No more tanks!
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvs053063
That's creative. I like that. I can also try what you mention above, but really, I don't think there is anything about that procedure in the owner's manual.
Suspicious neighbor aside, I think he's saying that if you open the main valve on the propane tank to an open flame-control valve it will cause the "poppet" to stop the flow of propane. Do you always have all flame control valves to the full "OFF" position when you open the main valve on the tank?
Throw a bucket of soapy water over the tank and its connections, if theres a leak it will be very apparent by the formation of bubbles at the leak site..
I can try a leak test if it is a fast leak. I really have no idea since I only use the grill every couple of months which is why it is frustrating that I have to buy a new tank every time I use my grill.
Get a spray bottle and put a little bit of liquid dish washing detergent and fill it up with water.
Disconnect the hose from the propane tank. Put it in a vented area (like outside).
Spray the soapy water on the tank, especially on welded areas and valve fitting. Look for little bubbles coming up, esp. if continuously, that's where the pin hole leaks are.
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