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To save some money, I bought a small mahogany dining set off Craigslist. The table is about 4x3 ft, stained reddish brown with high gloss. It's very pretty but the tabletop has lots of surface scratches. Not major scoring but many little dings all over. Wondering if anyone here has had something refinished in a local woodworking place and how much it costs (ballpark) for this.
Another option is for me to refinish it myself and I've done some online research (never done it before in real life). I want to do the minimal to it for fear of ruining the table all together since I'm new at this (don't want to sand it down or remove the finish). From what I've read, I could try first putting a new layer of wax paste on (using 000 steel wool) and see if the scratches are much less noticeable. Is this a good way to start?
To save some money, I bought a small mahogany dining set off Craigslist. The table is about 4x3 ft, stained reddish brown with high gloss. It's very pretty but the tabletop has lots of surface scratches. Not major scoring but many little dings all over. Wondering if anyone here has had something refinished in a local woodworking place and how much it costs (ballpark) for this.
Another option is for me to refinish it myself and I've done some online research (never done it before in real life). I want to do the minimal to it for fear of ruining the table all together since I'm new at this (don't want to sand it down or remove the finish). From what I've read, I could try first putting a new layer of wax paste on (using 000 steel wool) and see if the scratches are much less noticeable. Is this a good way to start?
TIA.
Numerous questions.... veneer or solid? type of finish? (personal favorite here is shellac)
Having it done professionally can get expensive, as it is time-consuming, and the end result is entirely based on the skill of the refinisher.
"Little dings" could be troublesome....
Can't comment on the paste wax/ 000 steel wool, as I have only done the whole enchilada (stripping, sanding, refinishing).
The table is solid wood. The finish is very glossy but I don't know the difference between shellac, poly-u, lacquar, etc. and what's on it. I'll take a pic after the table arrives (having stored right now).
Scuff-sand it with 400 grit sandpaper. Apply several thin coats of a good quality polyurethane, sanding between each coat with 400 or 600 grit paper. You can use satin poly, or gloss poly, depending on how shiny you want the finish to be.
Personally, I really like rubbing in several dozen applications of tung oil or teak oil, but that requires sanding it down to bare wood - which is something you apparently don't want to do.
The table is solid wood. The finish is very glossy but I don't know the difference between shellac, poly-u, lacquar, etc. and what's on it. I'll take a pic after the table arrives (having stored right now).
Have you thought about painting the table after some sanding?
So if I understand correctly, I'll need to sand off the glossy finish that's on there now, but without getting all the way to the wood. Correct??
That is correct. Without a light scuff, the new poly will not adhere well. You don't need to sand down anywhere near "all the way to the wood." You just need to break the glaze of the old finish.
As to the cost for others to do it. A dining table is typically $1000 to re-finish (top, sides, legs and leafs). We had three small table tops only refinished fo $300.
DIY just sand the finish off, then sand with 100, 120, 150 220 grits. Use a good poly, and sand with 220 between coats. OIl based poly will turn yellowish over time if it gets sunlight on it. Water base stays clear. Some like the yellowing, it looks like patina.
If you want to preserve the patina, just scuff up the existing fiinish and coat it with satin poly (NOT GLOSS).
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Problem solved. Next? 
