Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Yes, did that. The hot water does run well through the hose. We think it's electrical and will test by swapping the hot and cold connections to the control panel to diagnose.
I just wanted to make sure easy's suggestion was actually followed - I believe he is talking about the little conical screen that is on the washing machine side of your fill hose, it's not easy (no pun intended) to see, you have to pull the machine out, remove the hose and look directly into the open fitting. I had the same problem, and mine was ALL gunked up, I just pulled it out with a pair of needle nose, the washer is beyond its service life anyway. If it turns out to be the solenoid (or even if it's not), you could always just fill the tub manually via a hose connected to your laundry sink faucet, and use "cold" for the rinse, the machine doesn't know if it's you or the machine that initially filled the tub with water. Don't ask me how I know (I'd guess this machine is over thirty years old), it's the second set we ever had and the house is sixty years old. Maytag used to make some dependable scat.
I just wanted to make sure easy's suggestion was actually followed - I believe he is talking about the little conical screen that is on the washing machine side of your fill hose, it's not easy (no pun intended) to see, you have to pull the machine out, remove the hose and look directly into the open fitting. I had the same problem, and mine was ALL gunked up, I just pulled it out with a pair of needle nose, the washer is beyond its service life anyway. If it turns out to be the solenoid (or even if it's not), you could always just fill the tub manually via a hose connected to your laundry sink faucet, and use "cold" for the rinse, the machine doesn't know if it's you or the machine that initially filled the tub with water. Don't ask me how I know (I'd guess this machine is over thirty years old), it's the second set we ever had and the house is sixty years old. Maytag used to make some dependable scat.
Our machine is an older Kenmore from back in the day when whichever manufacturer made great reliable Kenmores. (I never did the research to see who made it.) It's not quite as old as yours though, and other than some rust and a few dings on its case, it works great as long as we don't mind cold water, and still has years of life left.
The little filters that easy62 mentioned, that you referred to, are brand new since they are part of the water mixing valve unit we just replaced. The filters on the original valve were a little gunky, so yes, for anyone out there reading about this they should periodically clean these filters.
The only reason we haven't yet checked the solenoid connector is that even though it's an easy project, it is a bit time-consuming pulling the machine out and then going through all the steps to get the case off to expose the valve. A short back story ... we had purchased the new valve a while ago and it had been sitting on a shelf not installed because of the above-described time-consuming project of taking the machine apart. However, on Wednesday the machine had overfilled the tub flooding the laundry room - fortunately it was discovered before too much water had flowed into the kitchen and over the threshhold into the garage. It was literally a 15 second fix to put the air tube back onto the pressure switch (how it popped off, who knows, but perhaps over time it had been vibrated enough to work itself off). While the machine was disassembled we replaced the valve and so frustrated that the hot water still wasn't flowing. We put the machine back together and then I posted here at city-data. If we had been smart we would have done it the other way around leaving the machine open and trying the suggestions from all you knowledgeable folks.
Because curiosity is eating at us I hope we can carve out an hour or so today to test the solenoid connections.
Scratching our heads on this one. Usually when no hot water is going into the washing machine it's the valve - clogged filters or burnt out solenoid, etc. We bought a new valve and installed it - still no hot water. Thinking it was our bum luck that the new one was defective, we bought another, installed it and still no hot water. Hot water comes from the faucet through the hose to the valve just fine. Cold water flows fine from faucet, through the hose, through the valve, and right into the machine's tub just as it should when the machine is set on cold. If we set the machine to hot water, all that dribbles into the tub are droplets of warm water.
What are we missing? Where around that valve is the problem?
I assume you've tried switching the hot and cold water hoses to make sure it's something on the hot water side?
You can also try googling your washer model number with no hot water to see if anything comes up. That's what we always do.
Just shut off hot water to washer and remove from washer get a bucket and open up hot water and run hot water into the bucket if it flows than it’s the washers fill valve and not the plumbing in the house. Easiest way to check to see what it is and your Kenmore was made by Whirlpool Corp. for Sears. Hers a link to what brands Whirlpool owns. https://www.whirlpoolcorp.com/brands-we-love/
UPDATE: we did swap the solenoid connector leads. Now, when the selector knob is turned to hot, full force cold water comes out (whereas before hot water dripped out), and when the selector is turned to cold, the cold water drips out (before, it was full force).
So, harry chickpea, your suggestion to test the solenoid connections by swapping the leads proves there is a problem with the hot water one.
How to fix/repair/replace is our next adventure, but at least now we know where to start. Thank you everyone!
UPDATE: we did swap the solenoid connector leads. Now, when the selector knob is turned to hot, full force cold water comes out (whereas before hot water dripped out), and when the selector is turned to cold, the cold water drips out (before, it was full force).
So, harry chickpea, your suggestion to test the solenoid connections by swapping the leads proves there is a problem with the hot water one.
How to fix/repair/replace is our next adventure, but at least now we know where to start. Thank you everyone!
You had done the basics before, so it was your next step. You now know that both the solenoid valves themselves are fine. Further repair may depend upon your electronics skills.
The voltage going to the solenoids may come from electromechanical relays, or from integrated circuits. If relays are involved, try swapping them. Replacements may be available, and some relays simply need coveres removed and their points filed to remove corrosion and loosen the mechanism. If the power comes directly from a circuit, there may be an obvious burned SCR, which again might be possible to replace with decent soldering skills. More likely, buying the control board will be faster and easier. PartsDR, ApplianceAssistant, Edgewaterparts can be helpful. Good luck.
You had done the basics before, so it was your next step. You now know that both the solenoid valves themselves are fine. Further repair may depend upon your electronics skills.
The voltage going to the solenoids may come from electromechanical relays, or from integrated circuits. If relays are involved, try swapping them. Replacements may be available, and some relays simply need coveres removed and their points filed to remove corrosion and loosen the mechanism. If the power comes directly from a circuit, there may be an obvious burned SCR, which again might be possible to replace with decent soldering skills. More likely, buying the control board will be faster and easier. PartsDR, ApplianceAssistant, Edgewaterparts can be helpful. Good luck.
We have some limited skills with electrical, and we have a friend who's a retired electrician.
Youtube is great for how-to-fix videos, but city-data is better! Thank you!
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
