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Pics- I'm better with words than I am that gosh darned digital camera gizmo! lol
Definately need to do it for documenting the progress (resale value and insurance purpose alike) so when I master that skill I'll try to translate it to the thread.
I saw pricing for cedar shingles "$303 per square" I was like- one shingle is $303???? YIKES! That would've made my tree fort as a kid a fort knox with gold walls.
Hardie board comes with a 30 yr warranty, which is sounding very promising.
A "square" of siding is 100 sf- not 1 sf, so it's actually $3.00/sf. The Hardi products are definitely a better choice for your application than vinyl, and will perform better than painted wood (less expansion/contraction, which is what causes paint to peel).
thanks everyone's input.
FYI the only thing the box stores have certified installed is vinyl (at least in this state), which might explain its over use. They can special order it on your behalf but cannot provide qualified installers.
the hardie 30 yr warranty won't be honored if not installed by certified contractors knowlegeble in the material, so start at the main site and see who's trained for it in your area at the remodeling link to avoid future hassles.
I saw pricing for cedar shingles "$303 per square" I was like- one shingle is $303???? YIKES! That would've made my tree fort as a kid a fort knox with gold walls.
Hardie board comes with a 30 yr warranty, which is sounding very promising.
I'm pretty sure Hardiplank makes a version of shingles. One variety is sort of cutesie. The shingles are arranged in wiggly courses rather than straight. They probably make the straight ones too.
I was considering shingles for a couple of reasons- one being nostalgia from my south shore hometown. Old habits die hard.
Another big reason was looking for an alternative to vinyl, and when DIY is in mind, shingles are alot easier to manage than having to work in pairs to support the other end of the plank for positioning. Can be unweildy trying to plod on working alone when your partner went on a parts run. Terms of hardie plank dictate no DIY, so insulation values revert back to much higher priority than ease of use (aka laziness lol).
I'm definately wanting this remodel to result in a much higher efficiency of collective utilites so the operating costs stay affordable on any salary. Should I resell, I want this to be a blessing to the next family who lives here, and not the shoddy take the money and run flip that's ruled real estate for decades. At the same time I can't charitably over extend myself & need to keeping costs in line relative to the neighborhood. Mission statement is solid value.
I'm thinking that the less breaks I have in a continous run of siding, the less chance of water/air infiltration. Shingle cuts of hardie would have many opportunities to go wrong. I won't rule it out for job estimates, but that's my current thinking.
Purely aesthetics in mind- I also tend to think that it might make the simple line architectural features visually cluttered if it covers large areas.
Thread update on discovered info- hardie is a proprietary name (like jello brand gelatin but everyone calls it jello). The real category name is fiber cement siding for search engines. hardie company competitors are...
certainteed, cemplank, and maxitile.
warranties can be as high as 50 yrs
maint: painting every 15-20 yrs
cost: lower than average
source: Exterior Fiber Cement Siding for Your Home - Siding Helper
I recently saw a new vinyl product made to look exactly like (painted) cedar shingles. I was considering it for my house as the shingles, especially on the south exposure, are starting to warp. I cannot recall the name, but I was very impressed. I need to find the brochure.
The best way to maintain appearance and the attendant value of the old wood Craftsman houses is to replace or restore failing wood, and repaint where appropriate.
If you search on the internet, you will find nowadays that there are epoxy products with proven track-records that can glue the modern low-quality paint to older, weathered wood, or even restore that old wood sufficiently that, in many cases, it can be kept, and looks pretty-much like the rest of the wood. Maintenance can be fairly easy, but every situation is different.
Do an internet search for those wood-restoration products. Wood looks more similar to wood than anything else.
harborlady, you asked-"5. any other suggestions I haven't considered for this project"
Just wondered if you are in a historic district where there is
a hysterical, oops, historical society that has to approve anything done there. Sometime they are overly nit picky, other times more flexible...
Asking because I know someone that had to tear down just installed vinyl siding on a +100 yr old house because they didn't get it approved! (bad on their pocketbook, but oh it did look awful)
If you do a web search using the terms "hardiplank" and "historic" you will come up with a number of hits regarding its use in historic districts. The strict ones often say no, but many others say yes.
I think it's an awesome product. If you have the option to use the smooth side vs. the wood textured side, use the smooth because it looks more realistic.
I've never understood why they put that fake "wood" texture on vinyl and aluminum products - it is supposed to emulating wood, yet real wood is always pretty smooth unless you use some really rough stuff.
I found this site that might give you some info/ideas
Antique Home - Vintage House Plans - Craftsman Bungalows - Old homes - 1900 to 1960 - Queen Anne to Post WWII (broken link)
We are just finishing our Craftsman Bungalow. We were told NOT to use vinyl siding on it to hold it's historic "value". We resided our entire home in new cedar wood siding...then placed a sealer on it that keeps mold, mildew or general water damage off. Then primed it with KILZ and painted it with California Paint...which is Consumer Report's number one rated exterior paint.
Before you spring for Hardiplank or Hardishingles, I would strongly urge you to go look at an actual installation. This stuff has its virtues, but it does not look "exactly like" wood siding. Not even from a distance. One reason: the "wood grain" pattern repeats at intervals like a printed fabric, so it automatically comes across as machine made, rather than natural. Also, the plank profile may not (probably won't) match your existing profile. If the Hardiplank is thnner, your shadow lines will be shallower, giving a somewhat "suburban tract house" look, IMO. You really need to see this in real life, not just the sample board.
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- it is supposed to emulating wood, yet real wood is always pretty smooth unless you use some really rough stuff.
Our craftsman bungalow in nc
