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I bought a lot of 10 solid wood wardrobe cabinets at a great price at my college's auction. The cabinets are large -- 3' wide, 2' deep, 6' tall -- with 2 doors, 3 drawers, and several shelves (I'll be making more of those). The cabinets are very heavy; I have 4 of them in my garage and when I was moving them around, I took out their shelves and drawers to make it a little easier. They are currently in what is their permanent-for-now place. (Ha! I know that's an oxymoron -- what I mean is that they are finally in very good, functional positions in the garage and I can't imagine having to move them for AT LEAST many many years.)
This is what the cabinets look like (these are 2 of the ones in my garage -- obviously, I hadn't finished adding the drawers when I took the picture!):
Anyway, I WILL have 4 of them in my basement; my electrician helped me get the first one down there (not fun!!) but I managed to get the 2nd one down by myself (and will the 3rd and 4th as well) by building a heavy-duty pallet cart on 8" pneumatic wheels to get the cabinet from the garage to the bulkhead stairs, then a plywood plank to slide things (like cabinets!) down the bulkhead stairs.
The ones in the basement, I want to add casters to so I can easily move them when workers need access to things in the ceiling. There are a number of ways I could do it but the simplest seems to be getting the cabinet on its side (which I can do), then screwing them on, as in this photo ...
BUT when I added the 4 casters to that one today, I thought, I really would like to add 2 more in the center, but I will have to add wood blocking, ugh ... isn't there a better way to get this done?!!
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So my questions ...
(1) Does 4 casters seem like enough? Each is rated for 125 pounds, and I can't imagine any cabinet ever going above 300 pounds (assuming 150 pounds for the cabinet itself plus 150 pounds more for its contents -- and I'm overestimating BOTH of those!).
(2) Instead of adding the casters directly to the cabinet, I thought about buying a sheet of 3/4" plywood and having it cut to fit the bottom, then screwing IT to the cabinet all around, then adding 4-6 casters to the plywood. (2a) Would 3/4" plywood be stiff enough? (I'm wondering about the small "hollow areas" that would be above the plywood platform before the bottom of the cabinet proper, hence my question about the plywood's stiffness. If it could be an issue, I could conceivably add a bunch of wood blocking to go inside, but that would mean sizing and cutting a lot of small wood pieces, so it's getting more and more complicated just to add casters!) (2b) Would I add the casters at each corner (as in the above picture, but into the plywood instead of the cabinet itself) plus maybe 1 or 2 in the middle?
(3) Alternative plywood platform: add it INSIDE that wood framing all around (making sure, of course, that the casters clear the perimeter framing!!). But in this case, because of some of the INSIDE wood blocking (that I probably shouldn't remove), the casters would have to be about 4" from the front of the cabinet and maybe 2" from the back (the cabinet is 22" deep, 24" counting its hinges); they'd be maybe 1"-2" in from each side. I'd be able to screw the plywood into many places in the cabinet itself so it would be very securely attached. (I would also have 2 casters in the middle for a total of 6.)
(4) How on earth can I -- by myself -- get the cabinet UPRIGHT AGAIN after adding the casters? I've used an improvised lever (actually a 2x4!) to get one up that did NOT have casters, but the one in the basement that HAS casters (I added them when it was in the garage), I did not get it up fast enough and one of the casters broke off (it was supporting way too much weight as it took me way too long to get it up by myself, especially with it on casters!) -- so now I will have to get it back on its side and RE-DO the casters!! (But it SEEMS like the lever could work, even for a cabinet with casters -- maybe if I put something REALLY HEAVY in front of it to stop it from moving so much while I got it up?)
Yeah, all of this would be easier with a helper, but I ABSOLUTELY LOATHE asking for help as I like doing things by myself. But this just may be beyond me.
HELP, PLEASE!
P.S. I actually THOUGHT of using 2 scissor jacks to raise each cabinet (keeping it upright), then getting on the floor to add the casters. I would never actually get UNDER the cabinet, but this still seems pretty dangerous to do by oneself, no? On the other hand, if I did the SECOND PLYWOOD OPTION (#3 above), then I could probably slide it in between the scissor jacks, then lower the scissor jacks until the cabinet is just about on the plywood platform with casters, then remove the jacks. But I can't see a safe way to actually screw the platform into the cabinet except using L-brackets in a bunch of places all around. They'd be visible of course, but that's not a big deal -- these cabinets are utilitarian.
Instead of a lever, can you wrap a strap around the cabinet and throw a rope over something overhead create a simple pulley to get the cabinet upright? To keep the casters from swiveling or rolling, immobilize with duct tape? IMHO, faced with a repeated task that could end up injuring me each time, why not set everything up and ask a neighbor for 15 minutes? Not only would it solve the problem, lessen the chance of injury, it would also save time.
I would definitely give those casters a full support to attach- at least blocking in the corners.
Yeah, that's why I thought what I wrote in #3 (the 2nd plywood platform option) might work best -- that platform would actually be INSIDE the perimeter of the bottom of the cabinet and I could screw it into several places ON the cabinet. The only downside would be that the casters (there would be 6) would start a few inches in. With 6 of them in an area of 34" wide by 18" deep supporting a cabinet 36" wide by 22" deep (not including the hinges), I think that would be OK?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threerun
Did you get any locking casters? That would help stabilize one side to leverage up. Better yet an unfinished wall- push ‘em up then lift up.
Unfortunately, these casters are all swivel only. Others of the same wheel size that have brakes aren't the same ACTUAL size/height -- I checked a bunch.
I actually thought of buying 5" casters (those would definitely clear the bottom of the cabinet for the 2nd plywood platform option!) because they come in swivel and rigid -- no brakes but the rigid ones are certainly more stable than the swivel (on the pallet cart I made, the 2 8" pneumatic casters in back are rigid and the 2 in front are swivel -- that combo works great on that cart).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parnassia
Instead of a lever, can you wrap a strap around the cabinet and throw a rope over something overhead create a simple pulley to get the cabinet upright? To keep the casters from swiveling or rolling, immobilize with duct tape? IMHO, faced with a repeated task that could end up injuring me each time, why not set everything up and ask a neighbor for 15 minutes? Not only would it solve the problem, lessen the chance of injury, it would also save time.
I will try the masking tape on the casters!! Never thought of that.
The pulley is a good idea -- but unfortunately, what's overhead are ceiling tiles hiding lots of pipes and of course I can't use them!! I was actually looking at rope today when I was out shopping as I thought maybe I could hoist the cabinet up with very strong rope. The ones I saw were rated only for 100 pounds, though, and I wasn't sure that was enough.
Yes, I could ask a neighbor, but I absolutely hate that idea. I'm friendly with a lot of my neighbors, but asking them to do heavy manual labor, even for not very long, seems like such an imposition. As a last resort, though, I will email our neighborhood list asking for a handyperson for an hour to help me lift all 4 (I would pay them!). The big issue there is that I would not be able to use ANY of them until I get them ALL down in the basement, on their sides, and with the casters on. If I could lift one by myself, I could actually start USING it ...
I will keep thinking! (What I mostly think now is, I wish I were MacGuyver!)
This is too easy. Think how a teeter totter works.
First, get three pallets and a scrap of rug. Bring all to the basement, stack the pallets and put in about three or four screws partway in to make them into a stacked whole. Place the carpet scrap on top.
Remove the cabinet doors and lay the cabinet FACE DOWN on the rug. Attach your casters. (If they are rated for 125 lbs each and from Harbor Freight, they are actually good for about 90 lbs., but no matter, 300 lbs dead load gives a little safety margin.) On the FRONT of the cabinet behind the kick plate, secure and glue a trimmed 2 x 4 from caster bottom to caster bottom that will act as additional front support - and when vertical, go down to within 3/4" of your basement floor.
When you go to tilt the cabinets back up, your leverage point will be about 18" above the floor, making the mass you lift much less. The new bracing will contact the floor before the casters and act as a fulcrum. (If it doesn't, slid a 1/2" thick bit of plywood under it.) Once close to vertical, the casters will take over.
You don't want six casters. That will make moving things far harder. The brace in the front will give any additional support you need - IF the back is as I suspect, securely affixed in place.
This is too easy. Think how a teeter totter works.
First, get three pallets and a scrap of rug. Bring all to the basement, stack the pallets and put in about three or four screws partway in to make them into a stacked whole. Place the carpet scrap on top.
Remove the cabinet doors and lay the cabinet FACE DOWN on the rug. Attach your casters. (If they are rated for 125 lbs each and from Harbor Freight, they are actually good for about 90 lbs., but no matter, 300 lbs dead load gives a little safety margin.) On the FRONT of the cabinet behind the kick plate, secure and glue a trimmed 2 x 4 from caster bottom to caster bottom that will act as additional front support - and when vertical, go down to within 3/4" of your basement floor.
Sorry, Harry, but I don't understand much of what you are saying here ... attach a 2x4 BEHIND the "kick plate" (by which I THINK you mean the horizontal piece of wood at the bottom of the cabinet)? I thought of that. It won't fit. It's not enough, but adding a 1x4 (or 1x whatever) behind it makes it go BEYOND the front of the cabinet. I would have to play around with lots of different wood scraps to try to find something to fit.
I also don't understand what you mean by "from caster bottom to caster bottom." If you are saying to add a 2x4 (or whatever) to help support the casters, I had to do that with the one at the bottom right of the picture because one of the places where a caster screw would go had "bad" wood. But above you wrote "Attach your casters" and AFTER that attach the 2x4 -- so you DON'T seem to be saying that the casters would also be screwed into the 2x4.
So again, I'm confused. Sorry, I know you're trying to be helpful ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by harry chickpea
When you go to tilt the cabinets back up, your leverage point will be about 18" above the floor, making the mass you lift much less.
Harry, my leverage point TODAY was about 18" off the floor -- I tilted that cabinet back onto 6 heavy-duty bins that were about that height (maybe 19-20") so the cabinet would be high enough for me to comfortably work on. I thought -- OK, I HOPED -- that it would ALSO be high enough that when the casters were on, I'd be able to get it up much more easily than if it were on the floor or only a few inches up. (I thought about tilting the cabinet onto a 30"-high workbench, but that's in an entirely different area of the basement and I'd have to move it to the cabinets are. Maybe 30" WOULD make a difference in a way that 18" wouldn't?)
Quote:
Originally Posted by harry chickpea
The new bracing will contact the floor before the casters and act as a fulcrum. (If it doesn't, slid a 1/2" thick bit of plywood under it.) Once close to vertical, the casters will take over.
I have no idea what you are saying here, sorry again. The 2x4 would be LOWER than the casters? What? Would I then remove it? Again, totally confused.
Quote:
Originally Posted by harry chickpea
You don't want six casters. That will make moving things far harder. The brace in the front will give any additional support you need - IF the back is as I suspect, securely affixed in place.
Why would 6 casters make it harder to move than 4? They're all the same swivel casters. I was thinking more in terms of support underneath the 36" width of the cabinet.
Again, I am sorry for being a dunce. I'm not usually one, but when it comes to things like this, well, I have NO intuitive understanding of how things work.
Karen, call the office at your college that helps students find jobs. Hire a couple of students to move this furniture for you. It will be quick and probably cheaper than buying stuff to try to do it by yourself.
Sorry, Harry, but I don't understand much of what you are saying here ... attach a 2x4 BEHIND the "kick plate" (by which I THINK you mean the horizontal piece of wood at the bottom of the cabinet)? I thought of that. It won't fit. It's not enough, but adding a 1x4 (or 1x whatever) behind it makes it go BEYOND the front of the cabinet. I would have to play around with lots of different wood scraps to try to find something to fit.
I also don't understand what you mean by "from caster bottom to caster bottom." If you are saying to add a 2x4 (or whatever) to help support the casters, I had to do that with the one at the bottom right of the picture because one of the places where a caster screw would go had "bad" wood. But above you wrote "Attach your casters" and AFTER that attach the 2x4 -- so you DON'T seem to be saying that the casters would also be screwed into the 2x4.
So again, I'm confused. Sorry, I know you're trying to be helpful ...
Harry, my leverage point TODAY was about 18" off the floor -- I tilted that cabinet back onto 6 heavy-duty bins that were about that height (maybe 19-20") so the cabinet would be high enough for me to comfortably work on. I thought -- OK, I HOPED -- that it would ALSO be high enough that when the casters were on, I'd be able to get it up much more easily than if it were on the floor or only a few inches up. (I thought about tilting the cabinet onto a 30"-high workbench, but that's in an entirely different area of the basement and I'd have to move it to the cabinets are. Maybe 30" WOULD make a difference in a way that 18" wouldn't?)
I have no idea what you are saying here, sorry again. The 2x4 would be LOWER than the casters? What? Would I then remove it? Again, totally confused.
Why would 6 casters make it harder to move than 4? They're all the same swivel casters. I was thinking more in terms of support underneath the 36" width of the cabinet.
Again, I am sorry for being a dunce. I'm not usually one, but when it comes to things like this, well, I have NO intuitive understanding of how things work.
You aren't being a dunce. Let us start with what you are trying to accomplish.
You want the cabinets to be sturdy.
My response is to make the base of the front more sturdy, since your photos show the structure at the back of the cabinets is more than adequate. A steel angle iron, a 2 x 4 trimmed to fit, anything that bolsters that lower front wood (kickplate) will make the cabinets more strong.
Six vs. four casters: twisting a caster to be in the direction you want to pull or push is a PITA. They have tiny catlike minds of their own and those are all going "I want to go in THIS direction, not that!" One caster is easier to convince than two, two easier than three, three easier than four, you see where this is going.
Height off the floor when adding casters: You are already in the right area. In a teeter totter you want a weight on the other end much like your weight, not big Jim who is trying out for sumo wrestling. When pushing the top of the cabinet onto your work surface, you want the top weight (a slimmed Jim) to be close to the same as the weight you tilted up off the floor against the fulcrum.
When lifting the top back up, the base needs to not go anywhere. If the weight below the fulcrum and above are equal, you "lift" about a third of the weight of the entire cabinet. You can scotch the casters, you can use a board you insert under it and then rock the board out, there are multiple possibilities. My comment was to make the additional front reinforcement large enough that when you rock the cabinet back onto its casters, the roundness of the casters and their position relative to the front edge makes the support hit the floor first, much like the corner of a 2" square will hit before a circle of the same diameter with the same center point.
My sense is that when you rock the cabinet off your elevated platform it slips. It may slip at the casters on the bottom, it may slip at the edge of your platform. Both slip points need to be stopped for you to have the easy leverage to lift the top part of the cabinet. Anything you do to accomplish that will work. Use a rubber mat at the edge of your work platform, take a board and double stick tape it to the floor to prevent casters from rolling, you just want the fulcrum point to be reliable and near the center of the cabinet.
Remember your classics and Archimedes "Give me a place to stand and a lever and I can move the Earth" He left out the need for a fixed fulcrum.
Sorry that this is so intuitive for me and describing it is more difficult.
or put them up on some of those furniture dollies Harbor Freight sells..it's temporary and fairly easy to do if not too heavy..push against one side of cabinet lifting it up enough to slide the dolly under with your foot..then go around do the same thing on the other side with another dolly..
Karen, call the office at your college that helps students find jobs. Hire a couple of students to move this furniture for you. It will be quick and probably cheaper than buying stuff to try to do it by yourself.
Agree. You can also post for help on your neighborhood website and HS/College kids home for summer break will be happy to make a little pocket cash.
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I know that's an oxymoron -- what I mean is that they are finally in very good, functional positions in the garage and I can't imagine having to move them for AT LEAST many many years.)
