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I have UNfinished walk-in attic space (see photos). It's about 12x12 and we use it as a big storage closet. I'd like to "finish" it.
It does have lights & outlets, but I'd like to insulate it at a minimum.... and improve the aesthetic & utility--- adding drywall & flooring. All of that is within my capability. I'd like to add HVAC to cycle the air in there too.
I'm happy to get a building permit for whatever is required.
It was suggested by one of the spray-foam contractors that I might need to add an egress window to that space. That would involve roofing, framing a dormer, siding, maybe some brick veneer, and obviously, a window....and maybe HOA approval. All of that is beyond my capacity, and will likely double (at least) the cost of the project.
I've engaged our local building department, but they just referred me to the 2018 IBC for requirements. I engaged a neighborhood GC, and he wasn't sure either....He's a really nice guy, but wanted nearly $10K (without the window) to finish it where I think I can do it for closer to $4.5K.
Anyone know if this 'egress window' notion is a requirement? If I have to, I guess I can just stop at insulation & flooring. I'm pretty sure I don't need a permit for those two things. Once I add drywall & HVAC, I think I'm in "permit" territory.
If I have to add a window, I think the cost will exceed our budget & I may abandon it altogether.
I have UNfinished walk-in attic space (see photos).
It's about 12x12 and we use it as a big storage closet.
I'd like to "finish" it.
Leave well enough alone. Really.
Next up is very low level finish to seal in the open framing.
I've had good success stretching TYVEK and stapling it into the framing.
Dead simple DIY project. Staple gun. Utility knife. Masking tape.
I used KILZ sealer but any paint would work.
IBC is for basically commercial building-
The IRC covers 1&2 family dwelling structures.
For what you’re talking about- yes; it would require a “form” of emergency egress. I emphasis “form” because it doesn’t have to be a “window” per se. In other words, you don’t have to have a dog house or shed dormer with a standard type window. You could do a “balcony skylite” like this- https://www.iqskylights.com/velux-gd...hoCYwkQAvD_BwE
You literally just need to frame the rough opening, cut the opening and insert the skylite. Velux skylites are considered the “industry standard”- come with everything needed for a correct leak-free install. These balcony style skylites are quite popular in EU. I lived in an “attic apartment” in Germany for several years- loved opening that thing up and taking in the view.
Since you would not be changing the elevation of the home with this skylite- you should be able to get any approval without major grief or expense (other than the cost of the skylite itself).
But shouldn’t you finish the pool fiasco before venturing into another project???
LOL-- "But shouldn’t you finish the pool fiasco before venturing into another project???". That pool has set off an unwanted chain of events that has set us back for subsequent projects, and I'm convinced, is the reason my blood pressure is up. But you're right!!
This attic update is something we wanted completed before summer, 2023. That space gets so blazing hot in the summer and pretty cold in the winter. I've pulled a lot of items out of there due to the temperature extremes... The pool was supposed to be done September, 2022, then October 2022, then by November 15th..... and then March 2023, and then April 2023. When I uncovered the pool in April & saw the winter damage, we were pretty concerned and upset with the GC for not completing it before winter. And thank you, again, for your input to that. I'm hoping the foundation company with "piers" can come up with a cost-friendlier solution.
When I called our local Building Department about the attic, the clerk referred me to 2018 IBC. She may have erred & should have referred me to IRC. I'll double check it, but it looks like you already knew the answer. Thank You.
Our HOA is slow, but doesn't seem to be too fussy about updates to the exterior-- within reason. I'm pretty sure I can push through the Velux (or equivalent) that you suggested.... as long as our local Building Department approves. And I do know a good roofing guy in the neighborhood, so I'm going to run your idea past him. I know they'll approve the dog-house or lean-to style dormer, but it may take a month or two to get them to react.
At a minimum, I might just have a crew come in and spray foam it & call it a day, so we can use that space as we had hoped.... but, once we insulate it, I need to find a way to cycle the air or that space will get musty pretty fast. So I think the insulation may require HVAC, which will likely require a permit, which it looks like will require egress...
And "Mr Rational" offered a even more bare-bones solution. IDK that just plain Tyvek will provide the insulation & climate control I want, but it's something I'm going to research.
Or, maybe, I just convert that space to a seasonal sauna.... and a seasonal refrigerator!
There are different kinds of spray foam (open v close cell) and spray foam can hide issues like moisture if it's not done right. Consult a roofer about spray foam; my roofer is dead set against it.
In my county in VA, a permit is required to convert an attic.
I'm finally limping this project along-- I'm probably a month away from finally starting it. Shockingly the city planner has said that I DON'T need an egress window, so that should simplify things.
I'm twisting myself in knots over the insulation. I invited a few contractors over to bid a spray foam. Two of them said that they would spray foam directly to the underside of the roof line-- directly on the OSB-- stating that since it's "open cell foam", it won't be a problem with condensation & long term dry rot potential. The third contractor said spray foam directly on the OSB would void the roof warranty & to not do it. My 'laymans' experience says that I should have airgap baffles in there to keep any insulation away from anything that could gather condensation.
Any insulation experts out there? I was going to do spray foam because I think it's the most efficient. But when you get different opinions from experts and the estimators seem sure of what they're telling you, then I just don't know. You can see from the photos that the slanted ceiling portion of the room between the knee walls will need some insulation on (or slightly gapped to) the ceiling OSB.
When it comes to insulation there will always be discussion, cussin’, debate, bickering, and all out lies (depending on which side of the fence you’re on).
Did you see/read the “Pretty Good House” thread in the Architecture Forum? This is really where your question’s answer lies. What is the “best” option- versus- what is the better for the house, the region in which it sits, and your wallet?
From the two pics, and a vague description, I could only speculate as to how I would recommend finishing the space. But, I will make one sticking point that I live-by professionally. I would never, ever, ever, spray foam directly to OSB roof decking. Knowing that most people DO NOT maintain their homes as well as they should, and roofs and attics are formidable places that they just won’t go, damage to the roof resulting in a leak can go unnoticed for months/years… well beyond an “easy repair”.
So, weighing cost vs ROI vs Usage… will usually point you in the right direction. Remember, code requirements are “minimal standard”. Nothing says you have to go over and above, but sometimes, minimal is “enough”.
I'll get yelled at for saying this but I'd just do the thing.
Ask around, introduce yourself next time you see a drywall crew working on a house near you. Few hundred bucks and a case of beer gets it drywalled. I'd use foam board, or blown-in with plastic sheeting to constrain it, for insulation rather than spray foam. Set your mini-split outside, one hole through the wall for the refrigerant lines. Lay down some sheet vinyl and you're DONE.
If it were me, I'd want an egress window! Our 1949 home has a huge attic, and is stout enough for a finished attic, but the staircase is too narrow and steep to meet code for a finished attic. We chose closed foam spray it insulate, with R13 fiberglass over that.
Basements, habitable attics and every sleeping room shall have not less than one operable emergency escape and rescue opening.
So:
1. Is the space going to be used as a sleeping room?
2. Does the rest of the attic have an operable window that could be used as an emergency egress if the stairwell would be blocked?
If the answers are #1--no AND #2--yes, then you don't need an additional window in this room. Otherwise, yes you need a window.
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