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Agree with others, do the garage floor so it's all done at one time. Yes, it might hurt financially, but it's only going to cost more if you punt it into the future. And if what you describe is correct (4" of displacement) you really need to replace it just from a safety standpoint.
Everyones garages have this sort of thing happening. I think its a midwest thing. My neighbors garage floor looks almost identical to mine.
Frost heave probably. Are there gutters on the garage or is it in a moist, perhaps clayey spot? Solution is to keep water away with gutters and downspouts that direct the water 10 feet away. This may prevent it from happening again or getting worse
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Well, that certainly makes a big difference. That was most likely a quick slab on grade with no prep back then- or is there a stem wall around the sides and back? If you have stem walls, and the structure itself is in good condition, walls are plumb (no outward bowing), and the ridge is not sagging- then it’s just the slab, and ground heave during the winter.
This can be remedied by removing the existing, digging down to the original stem wall footing, add the appropriate amount of gravel, 1” XPS board (this will also serve as a vapor barrier- so no need for plastic sheeting vapor barrier), wire mesh and/or rebar. You’re ready for a new slab that will last longer than you or I. Best part, it’s not going crack and displace- or have moisture freezing in it; or sweating.
THIS! The foundation wall is about 5' deep because the back yard is on a pretty good slope. The garage is solid except for the floor. In fact it has all the original shiplap still.
THIS! The foundation wall is about 5' deep because the back yard is on a pretty good slope.
The garage is solid except for the floor. In fact it has all the original shiplap still.
Getting back to the questions of how much $$ to spend on what when and by who ...
I'll reiterate that YOU shouldn't volunteer to do too much let alone too soon.
In light of the above added detail ... I'll suggest that you do no more than to demo the concrete.
Eliminate the question marks and reduce the problem(s) to design choices the buyer can make.
Poured on uncompacted dirt, not a good stone base.
No reinforcement with wire or rebar.
Not pinned to the foundation.
Recipe for failure.
$4000 might get you a concrete pour. Probably won't get you a good base and reinforcement.
What he said. You need to get someone in there to remove the old concrete, compact the dirt, put down some gravel. What is a typical slab thickness around there? Here in eastern WA they tend to pour a 4" slab right on the dirt.
Over 25 years ago, I put a concrete floor in my newly built pole barn garage and in a barn/garage that was here when I bought the place. I contracted to have it done right, 6" slab with re-bar, and "fiber mesh" added to the concrete. The guys who poured it asked if I planned to work on tanks in that garage.
Today the floors are still in essentially mint condition.
As the man says, "Do it once and do it right!"
Don't put this off until the weather gets cold, get with it soon.
It might be cheaper and more practical to prep the garage floor first, prep the driveway, then have it all poured on the same day, maybe from just one truck.
Well, that certainly makes a big difference. That was most likely a quick slab on grade with no prep back then- or is there a stem wall around the sides and back? If you have stem walls, and the structure itself is in good condition, walls are plumb (no outward bowing), and the ridge is not sagging- then it’s just the slab, and ground heave during the winter.
This can be remedied by removing the existing, digging down to the original stem wall footing, add the appropriate amount of gravel, 1” XPS board (this will also serve as a vapor barrier- so no need for plastic sheeting vapor barrier), wire mesh and/or rebar. You’re ready for a new slab that will last longer than you or I. Best part, it’s not going crack and displace- or have moisture freezing in it; or sweating.
I'm not familiar with XPS board, maybe it was never popular in the PNW or it's new, I did my floors in 1993.
But knowing you, probably the XPS board is a good idea.
You know, concrete without rebar or wire mesh is just shoddy work and it won't last. And you don't really save that much money cutting that corner.
Basic starter/ender home in Chicago suburb. Middle of the road burb with a wide range of property values. Need to replace my driveway and deciding on whether or not to replace the garage floor first. The garage floor is cracked in that typical an X pattern that happens with about 4" of displacement. It will be about 4K to fix it. Worth it?
"Post-tensioned" slab?
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