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I posted earlier about mold we found behind the kitchen sink where the countertop and backsplash were not properly sealed. Everyone recommended we replace the old drywall w/ backer board (blue board, green board -- are they all the same?) in that area, which we're planning to do.
We are having mosaic glass tile installed as a new backsplash throughout the kitchen and the tile guy said he won't put it in unless we have backer board throughout -- not just the areas that could get wet like the sink. He said it's a better surface for the tile. He wouldn't be installing the backer board so he's not trying to make an extra buck off us. Another tile guy we had out earlier was going to just put the glass tile over the old drywall (until we found the mold).
Is it generally recommended to rip out old drywall and replace w/ backer board to do glass tile? This is an older house, built in 1969.
Green board is drywall with a special paper that is used where there is moisture, such as kitchens and bathrooms.
Your tile guy may be referring to tile backer board, which is a special backer board for tiles. Most of it is a cement type material that has a mesh covering. It's hard like cement and impervious to moisture. It is used on walls, counter tops, and floors under tile.
Yes , it does cost more than green board, but will make a better installation (if done right) for tiles. Tile mastic will also stick better to backer board than it will to green board. I would use it, and the tile guy that says to use it.
Get rid of the mold before you install anything else..
Mold is the silent killer nobody wants to talk about.
Quote:
Originally Posted by christeen
i posted earlier about mold we found behind the kitchen sink where the countertop and backsplash were not properly sealed. Everyone recommended we replace the old drywall w/ backer board (blue board, green board -- are they all the same?) in that area, which we're planning to do.
We are having mosaic glass tile installed as a new backsplash throughout the kitchen and the tile guy said he won't put it in unless we have backer board throughout -- not just the areas that could get wet like the sink. He said it's a better surface for the tile. He wouldn't be installing the backer board so he's not trying to make an extra buck off us. Another tile guy we had out earlier was going to just put the glass tile over the old drywall (until we found the mold).
Is it generally recommended to rip out old drywall and replace w/ backer board to do glass tile? This is an older house, built in 1969.
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Another option, use drywall and get some Kerdi membrane to water proof it. We did two bathrooms with nothing but Schulter products and no concrete backer board. Ditra on the floor and Kerdi in the showers. Much easier than backer board, and it waterproof directly behind the tile, whereas backerboard can absorb some water.
" .......... It's hard like cement and impervious to moisture............"
Cementitious backer board is NOT impervious to moisture. Because it is made of a lightweight concrete aggregate, it is simply a better bond surface for thinset mortars. You are bonding cement to cement, which creates a stronger adhesion. That's why it's better.
".........Tile mastic will also stick better to backer board than it will to green board. I would use it, and the tile guy that says to use it."
Tile mastic will actually stick to sheetrock/gypsum board better than to a cement backer board. However, glass tiles should be installed ONLY with a very high grade polymer-modified white thinset mortar, and backer board of either kind (gypsum, like Hardibacker, or cement, like Durock) is a better substrate for glass tiles and thinset as described above.
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Apologies for the hi-jack, but I'm going to be installing a tile backsplash over the sink in my kitchen. The surface that will bear the tile is 3/4" plywood. Should I put backer board over the wood or can I just thin-set the tiles directly to the wood? These will be individual slate tiles (no mesh backing, cut from leftover floor tiles) approximately 4" on a side.
Jimbo,
For your application, I'd screw 1/4" backer board over the plywood, and then use a premium thinset mortar to set the tiles. You'll need spacers to keep the stone tiles from sliding down the wall.
By the way, If you'll seal the stone BEFORE you grout, your clean up will be MUCH easier. Then seal the system again after you grout.
Jimbo,
For your application, I'd screw 1/4" backer board over the plywood, and then use a premium thinset mortar to set the tiles. You'll need spacers to keep the stone tiles from sliding down the wall.
By the way, If you'll seal the stone BEFORE you grout, your clean up will be MUCH easier. Then seal the system again after you grout.
Regards,
Streamer1212
Agreed. Another consideration is the seal between the countertop and the tile behind a wet area. Since very minor movement can cause hairline cracks at the joint allowing moisture movement I have always used a flexible caulk rather than grout between the counter and backsplash. It is extra work to match colors but it will result in a more reliable seal.
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