[Cliffie]

Originally Posted by suydam

My house is 60 years old.
Last winter we paid about $120/mo for heating.
I think $270 is a bit extreme.

My monthly bill dropped when I replaced half the windows, dropped more when I replaced the rest, dropped still more when I insulated, again when I replaced the screen door. It is expected to drop even more when I get a water softener installed.

My monthly bill has gone from over $100 to $80 monthly, even as oil prices soar out of sight.

[odesius]

Do a little more and they will pay you to heat your home LOL

[Bydand]

Originally Posted by Cliffie

I thought this was a universal thing, not local! When I was in high school one of the chemistry teachers had them making peanut brittle in the lab...

You didn't go to the Soo did you? My chemistry teacher had us do the same thing. Not as any learning experience, just for a snack one day for everybody.

[Br1234]

Originally Posted by magellan

Our heating bill maxes out at about $94/month for just over 2100 square feet. Even if you are in an old home, there are a lot of ways you can get your heating bill lower than $270/month. I did notice that my inlaws pay almost twice the rate per BTU at their place up near Traverse City than we do here in GR, through Consumers. I wonder why that is? Gas traveling longer distance?

How do you keep your bill so low? I thought I had it good (high of $121). I have R38+ in the attic, Pella wood cased-argon windows, 2x6 walls, a 90+ furnace and an on-demand water heater. I am "cold-blooded" and keep the temp real low all winter too. Single story, 1450 sq/ft on the main floor with full daylight unfinished basement. JC.

[magellan]

Originally Posted by Br1234

How do you keep your bill so low? I thought I had it good (high of $121). I have R38+ in the attic, Pella wood cased-argon windows, 2x6 walls, a 90+ furnace and an on-demand water heater. I am "cold-blooded" and keep the temp real low all winter too. Single story, 1450 sq/ft on the main floor with full daylight unfinished basement. JC.

2 story newer home, 90+ furnace, R-38 attic, plus our home is DR Nelson energy sealed. They completely filled every infiltration point and heat loss source of the home with sealant foam as it was being constructed, even between the foundation and the sill plate. They then do a vacuum seal test of the home after it is closed in and check for any missed infiltration points. Adds about $1500 - 2000 to a new home I believe, but it's well worth it. No drafty window sills or outlets on the exterior walls. We also program the thermostat to go down to about 67 at night and rarely get it above 70 during the day or evening.

drnelson.com

I believe they can treat existing homes as well.

[Driller1]

Originally Posted by Cliffie

My monthly bill dropped when I replaced half the windows, dropped more when I replaced the rest, dropped still more when I insulated, again when I replaced the screen door. It is expected to drop even more when I get a water softener installed.

My monthly bill has gone from over $100 to $80 monthly, even as oil prices soar out of sight.

Just curious, how is a water softener going to help?

[Driller1]

Just a note. With all this insulation, have a air flow test done. You can get things unbalanced and cause cold air to come in.

[Br1234]

Originally Posted by Driller1

Just a note. With all this insulation, have a air flow test done. You can get things unbalanced and cause cold air to come in.

With 90+ furnaces you have three 4" ducts that go from the outside in. I can feel cold air blowing in during the cold months but I guess that is to be expected.

[Br1234]

Originally Posted by magellan

2 story newer home, 90+ furnace, R-38 attic, plus our home is DR Nelson energy sealed. They completely filled every infiltration point and heat loss source of the home with sealant foam as it was being constructed, even between the foundation and the sill plate. They then do a vacuum seal test of the home after it is closed in and check for any missed infiltration points. Adds about $1500 - 2000 to a new home I believe, but it's well worth it. No drafty window sills or outlets on the exterior walls. We also program the thermostat to go down to about 67 at night and rarely get it above 70 during the day or evening.

2 story.

Mine is 5 years old but 1 story with 12 foot ceilings in the majority of the house. Sill plate has a sealer and the house is wrapped with typar. I turn my furnace down to 63 at night and while at work. I think the key is 2 story. I have heard they are the most efficient (for heating at least).

[Driller1]

Originally Posted by Br1234

With 90+ furnaces you have three 4" ducts that go from the outside in. I can feel cold air blowing in during the cold months but I guess that is to be expected.

When you can fill the cold air, try opening a window on the opposite side. If it makes a difference, it is a balance problem.