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We recently purchased a newly constructed home which, we were told, is built with a system to handle potential radon problems. Naturally, this gave us a sense of security..... a false one! NJ (at least some areas) has elevated levels and new homes are supposed to be built to handle this. However, after having the home inspected (by our own inspector - not the builder's) we learned that our radon "number" is more than double the EPA's acceptable number. It turns out that the system they install is only a passive one and only becomes active if additional equipment (fan?) is installed to reduce the radon level inside the house. This is just some advice to anyone who thinks they have a radon eliminating system, whether old house or new. Make sure it's active if it needs to be!
We recently purchased a newly constructed home which, we were told, is built with a system to handle potential radon problems. Naturally, this gave us a sense of security..... a false one! NJ (at least some areas) has elevated levels and new homes are supposed to be built to handle this. However, after having the home inspected (by our own inspector - not the builder's) we learned that our radon "number" is more than double the EPA's acceptable number. It turns out that the system they install is only a passive one and only becomes active if additional equipment (fan?) is installed to reduce the radon level inside the house. This is just some advice to anyone who thinks they have a radon eliminating system, whether old house or new. Make sure it's active if it needs to be!
This isn't uncommon at all. In fact, all new construction since sometime in the mid '90s must be fitted withthe passive radon system. If the testing shows elevated radon levels, the additrional equipment necessary is essentially a fan, so it's very inexpensive.
And NJ doesn't have particularly high levels of radon. (For the record, a level of 4 picocurries per million is the NJ limit.) It's a matter of where in NJ you are. Radon is the product of the nartural decay of rock. So mountainous areas, like northern Somerset county, will have higher levels of radon, while lowlying, non mountainous areas, the Pinelands, for example, likey have little or no radon issues.
Thanks for the comments. The test was done in the basement. Currently, it's unfinished space but has a sliding glass door and steps to the backyard. The radon level was almost 10 (with 4 being the NJ limit). It's not a mountainous area - it's central Monmouth County!
Thanks for the comments. The test was done in the basement. Currently, it's unfinished space but has a sliding glass door and steps to the backyard. The radon level was almost 10 (with 4 being the NJ limit). It's not a mountainous area - it's central Monmouth County!
Ok, thats the reason I asked... 10 isn't abnormal for a basement, and being that it is unfinished from your builder, its not technically a "living space". The radon level of 4pCi/L is for the first living space floor - which would be your first floor. This is definitely where you should be testing.
If you turn a basement into a livable space though, you'll need to have an active system, or it just won't be enough
Ok, thats the reason I asked... 10 isn't abnormal for a basement, and being that it is unfinished from your builder, its not technically a "living space". The radon level of 4pCi/L is for the first living space floor - which would be your first floor. This is definitely where you should be testing.
No one tests above the basement. All radon testers I have ever seen or heard of put their sensors in the lowest level, finished or not. Perhaps it's a regional thing. I know the EPA recommends the same thing you do, testing in the lowest lived in or regularly used level.
No one tests above the basement. All radon testers I have ever seen or heard of put their sensors in the lowest level, finished or not. Perhaps it's a regional thing. I know the EPA recommends the same thing you do, testing in the lowest lived in or regularly used level.
Yup, its true, most don't. Personally I prefer two testers, one in the basement, one on the first floor. Its pretty much expected that levels in an unfinished basement will be a bit higher, but its nice to know where you actually stand. If you're high in the basement, it doesn't mean you have a problem on the first floor; by the same token, if you're low on the first floor, it doesn't mean your basement wouldn't benefit from a simple temp-based vent fan.
All in all, I think many of the radon mitigation systems have become another fear-induced sales pitch, so its good for everyone to know the facts.
It's also important that the tests be done when the house is well sealed (ie, doing the test in the spring with all the windows open will lower the results). Generally the winter produces the highest radon readings...
Radon also comes and goes in cycles as different layers of rock decay more/less actively at different times. The cycles can range from a few months to a few years...
Well, theres always the long (90 day) test. That shows the best average.
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