Quote:
Originally Posted by nmnita
When temps get about 95 or the humidity climbs they are almost useless.
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That should read as follows:
When temps get about 95 [
and] the humidity climbs they are almost useless.
High humidity decreases the effectiveness of an evaporative cooler, but even
at 90 deg and 90% humidity there is still a cooling effect from the evaporation
of water. That being said, swamp coolers are wonderful if humidity is below 30%.
A swamp cooler works just fine at 105 degrees if the humidity is below 10%.
Your output air ( input to the house ) will be below 70 degrees.
Also note:
Do not just "crack" the window. The window opening should be approximately the same
area as the input pads on the cooler. The system works via
air-flow. Cracking the window too little
restricts air-flow and simply builds pressure and humidity inside the house. Part of what makes the
swamp cooler effective is moving air which gives humans the illusion of lower temperatures ( ironically
using the the same principle of physics that the machine on your roof or wall is using to cool the air ).
Quote:
? high cool or pump only ?
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The control for [cool] generally controls the water pump.
Water makes the air cool.
Hi/Low generally just means lots of air flow and low air flow.
My philosophy on "Hi" air flow is that it doesn't get as much benefit from the water and thus
does not cool as effectively, costs more money to operate and probably wears out the fan
faster than it otherwise would. It's mostly good for blowing out a hot house.
BTW, for the newbies here; one of the ways an Evaporative Cooler saves money is that it
doesn't need to be on when you are not home. Cooling only takes a minute or so after it
is turned on.
Of course, one of the benefits of refrigerated air is that all the "stuff" in your house is
kept cool via the a/c and you don't sit on a 90-degree couch to start watching the news.