Neighborhood of the week: Hazelwood (Pittsburgh, West Mifflin: how much, hotel, houses)

[eschaton]

Hazelwood is a neighborhood in the Lower East End of Pittsburgh, but arguably not "of" the East End, having more in common socially speaking with areas of the Mon Valley outside of Pittsburgh city limits. It is primarily bordered by Greenfield and Glen Hazel (which were both covered recently) but is also adjacent to small sections of South Oakland and Squirrel Hill.

Hazelwood took its name from hazelnut trees which once flourished along the Monongahela River. It had its first settlers early in the 19th century - Scotch-Irish - which is why some people refer to the flat portion west of the railroad tracks as Scotch Bottom to this day. Another portion of modern-day Hazelwood further to the south was originally called Glenwood - a name originally from the 19th century Glen Hotel which was along Second Avenue. The name is now essentially defunct except when discussing the Glenwood Bridge. During all of the early 19th century however Hazelwood was still a primarily rural area with only a few areas of density - mostly closer to the river in areas which were later demolished for what became the LTV mill. The railroad was also a large employer in the neighborhood. Unlike elsewhere in the city, rail lines were built at some remove from the water, in large part because Hazelwood at that time was a major boating area of the city - both for recreational and commercial reasons. Hazelwood experienced its strongest building boom in the period between 1885 and 1910, becoming a bustling urban neighborhood. The original Scotch-Irish population of the neighborhood began dispersing through the region, and was largely replaced by a Hungarian and Slavic population, of which remnants even remain today.

Then, of course, a familiar story of urban decline set in. Hazelwood had become a dirty mill neighborhood, so the middle class moved outward - typically south to areas like Lincoln Place and West Mifflin initially. Mill employment slowly declined, although LTV wasn't fully closed until 1998, ultimately becoming the last major steel mill in the city. White flight also took place to a limited degree, although it was less of an important dynamic in Hazelwood than some other parts of the city, with Hazelwood slowly shifting from a heavily white area to a racially balanced neighborhood over the last 50 years. It seems like the major dynamic, looking at population numbers, wasn't that appreciable numbers of black people moved in (aside from when Glen Hazel Heights closed) - it was that the white population tended to leave, and the black population stayed behind. Sill, even though Hazelwood never experienced the hevay white flight of an area like Homewood or even Garfield, it experienced similar issues with crime, blight, and disinvestment.

In its present form Hazelwood, generally speaking, late 19th to early 20th century in built form, and heavily peppered with vacant lots and abandoned buildings. This is just a generalization which misses many individual neighborhoods. There are areas by Greenfield and Calvary Cemetery which are safe, intact, suburban-like enclaves. Some areas are shockingly backwoodsy now due to so many houses being missing. The neighborhood west of the railroad tracks is still mostly intact, still very urban. The neighborhood even had an old mansion district along Tipton Street. Many of these grand old structures are still standing, albeit not all are in good shape. Second Avenue still functions as a business district of sorts, but between blight and unfavorable, autocentric-style infill it's been decimated nearly as bad as Braddock's business district, with only one really intact block of commercial space left.

Still, it looks as though the corner for Hazelwood may finally turn, and the neighborhood will cease to be the "hole in the East End" it has been for decades. The Almono project has the potential to be transformative for the lower portions of the neighborhood, but is slow going at the moment. Still, the Mill 19 office space will be ready relatively soon. Popular local French bakery La Gourmandine opened up its third location in Hazelwood this March, which operates both as a local storefront and a regional production space for their other two stores. The neighborhood has a greengrocer again, and I've heard about efforts to convert the old YMCA building into a brewery. I expect the changes to happen slowly - Hazelwood has so many vacant lots you'd need a high level of gentrification before Second Avenue would fill in again or something - but they're a welcome start nonetheless.

[tyovan4]

Originally Posted by eschaton

The original Scotch-Irish population of the neighborhood began dispersing through the region, and was largely replaced by a Hungarian and Slavic population, of which remnants even remain today.

There is still a Hungarian church on Johnston Avenue - it's rather small, and I've never been inside so I can't comment on interior aesthetics. There is also still a Hungarian restaurant, Jozsa Corner. I've heard nice things about it, but I've never eaten there. Be aware that it is reservation only: Hungarian Restaurant 4800 Second Ave., Pittsburgh PA 15207 412-422-1886

[eschaton]

Originally Posted by tyovan4

There is still a Hungarian church on Johnston Avenue - it's rather small, and I've never been inside so I can't comment on interior aesthetics. There is also still a Hungarian restaurant, Jozsa Corner. I've heard nice things about it, but I've never eaten there. Be aware that it is reservation only: Hungarian Restaurant 4800 Second Ave., Pittsburgh PA 15207 412-422-1886

Yeah. My wife's mother's family were Hungarians from Hazelwood (although they moved to Lincoln Place when she was a small child). Her father volunteered at the Hungarian Reformed church almost up until his death.

I've heard great things about Josza Corner, but I presume they don't serve much that's vegan friendly. My mother has really been wanting to go there since she moved to Pittsburgh. I'm not Hungarian at all, but my mom's maternal grandparents were Germans from Banat (part of Austria-Hungary at the time, now in Romania) and the food her grandfather cooked when she was a kid was essentially Hungarian cuisine.

[tyovan4]

Originally Posted by eschaton

Yeah. My wife's mother's family were Hungarians from Hazelwood (although they moved to Lincoln Place when she was a small child). Her father volunteered at the Hungarian Reformed church almost up until his death.

I've heard great things about Josza Corner, but I presume they don't serve much that's vegan friendly. My mother has really been wanting to go there since she moved to Pittsburgh. I'm not Hungarian at all, but my mom's maternal grandparents were Germans from Banat (part of Austria-Hungary at the time, now in Romania) and the food her grandfather cooked when she was a kid was essentially Hungarian cuisine.

Looks like they do have salads, and some other items that look like they would be ok for vegetarians - not sure about vegans: Menu

For another Hungarian restaurant, there is Huszar on the North Side: Huszar Pittsburgh – Legacy Bar & Hungarian Restaurant


Very interesting to see a reference to the Banat. While part of the Banat is in present day Romania, part of it is also in present day Serbia. The Serbian Banat was home to a large number of ethnic Germans, who were forced out of the country after WWII. There is still a Hungarian minority in Serbian Banat.

My family is from the Serbian Banat - they're from a small village near Bela Crkva, literally only a handful of miles from the Serbian-Romanian border. I was there a few years ago - very beautiful countryside, and very moving to return to my ancestral (and legal, as I acquired dual-citizenship) home.

[HenryFrickWasAPrick]

Amazing how much work went into prepping that site and we have heard basically NOTHING regarding new development.

Is it really surprising considering the vacant riverfront land closer to downtown? Almono really isn't connected to anything afterall.

Could the whole project be a bust?

[eschaton]

Originally Posted by tyovan4

Very interesting to see a reference to the Banat. While part of the Banat is in present day Romania, part of it is also in present day Serbia. The Serbian Banat was home to a large number of ethnic Germans, who were forced out of the country after WWII. There is still a Hungarian minority in Serbian Banat.

My family is from the Serbian Banat - they're from a small village near Bela Crkva, literally only a handful of miles from the Serbian-Romanian border. I was there a few years ago - very beautiful countryside, and very moving to return to my ancestral (and legal, as I acquired dual-citizenship) home.

To be most precise, my great-grandfather and great-grandmother were from a small outside of Timisoara now called Sanandrei. Oddly, they didn't know each other in the old country. My great grandmother's family migrated to the U.S. when she was three. My great-grandfather didn't come to the U.S. until he as 17, but managed to meet up with people from his home village, which is why the ended up together.

They were third cousins, but my understanding is everyone in the village was at that time.

[xdv8]

Originally Posted by HenryFrickWasAPrick

Amazing how much work went into prepping that site and we have heard basically NOTHING regarding new development.

Is it really surprising considering the vacant riverfront land closer to downtown? Almono really isn't connected to anything afterall.

Could the whole project be a bust?

I don't think there is as much vacant land closer to downtown as you imply, and certainly none on the scale of Almono. No chance it's a bust, more like it's slower going to than you would expect/hope.

They are proceeding with the build-out plan and looking for tenants - it is what it is. I was hoping Argo would have been interested, but it looks like the appeal of the Strip was too much for them. I have more hope for Almono site than for Carrie Furnace's viability as a commercial site inhabited by businesses.

[ElijahAstin]

Originally Posted by eschaton

Yeah. My wife's mother's family were Hungarians from Hazelwood (although they moved to Lincoln Place when she was a small child). Her father volunteered at the Hungarian Reformed church almost up until his death.

I've heard great things about Josza Corner, but I presume they don't serve much that's vegan friendly. My mother has really been wanting to go there since she moved to Pittsburgh. I'm not Hungarian at all, but my mom's maternal grandparents were Germans from Banat (part of Austria-Hungary at the time, now in Romania) and the food her grandfather cooked when she was a kid was essentially Hungarian cuisine.

To the contrary, Alex Bodnar (or Bodnar Alex, in Magyari) is known for making great Hungarian vegetarian. I've been multiple times with a lactose intolerant vegetarian friend, and he was quite pleased. I know that vegetarian =/= vegan, but Alex is very creative and thoughtful when it comes to dietary accommodations, so I'd imagine that he'd have no problem making a vegan feast. Try giving him a call and talking it out.

[eschaton]

Generally speaking, the bigger the development in terms of acreage, the longer it takes until anything gets started. This is one reason why a lot of cities have moved away from master-planned sites like Almono, and towards dividing up big brownfields into multiple parcels and handing each one to a separate developer.

[norcider]

Of note; Hazelwood has a spiffy new library.