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Well, there are people who think ahead and by preparing for unpleasant eventualities, avoid many (though not all) of them; and there are people who refuse to do so, and find themselves constantly beset by "unpredictable" or "accidental" misadventures that would have been predicted and guarded against by the first group. The latter group are what we call "improvident".
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Timing-belt is just a cheapo version of a timing-chain.
If you have a vehicle you really like, and it has a timing-belt and an interference-engine......yeah, you really should change that sucker when the manufacturer's recommends.
I pay attention to what people recommend for timing belt replacements - not the manufacturer.
And my recommendation for a Toyota Sienna is this. There is no need to change the timing belt at least before 120k miles on the odometer, irrespective of what Toyota recommends.
In my opinion, the timing belt will probably be fine for 1 to 2 more years or even more. I don't think the timing belt needs replacement at 90k miles as the mechanic suggested. Thats my opinion and so far I appear to be correct.
Its not that I don't want to maintain it well, its getting old, I won't get any money if I sell it and I don't want to put money in a van that may not last for a long time.
And just think, if you had really taken care of that vehicle, you would probably get another 100K on it if not more.
It has original struts and shocks. I have no idea whether this van has struts or shocks, that is how much I know about these parts. The van runs fine except when going on imperfections on the road. It is a bit noisy and this makes sense given the age of the van. On smooth roads, it runs smoothly.
Is there a need to do anything about these struts/shocks or continue using the van until an obvious problem presents itself and then I can decide whether to repair this van or sell it for a pittance?
Also, the timing belt is original, at 155k! The mechanic recommended replacing it at 90k but I chose not to.
Dude, get thyself to a mechanic. Sooner. Not later. Yesterday would be good.
First. The shocks and struts and suspension can be a safety issue. You are talking about WILLINGLY going in to the most dangerous time of the year (for driving) with a poorly maintained car. AT THE VERY LEAST, get a mechanic to check the parts and tell you what they think might be the WORST POSSIBLE SCENARIO should something fail.
Second. A worn timing belt can fail instantaneously. The motor will die. You will be "driving" with no power at all. In a Toyota it is not likely, but valve damage can occur. If valve damage happens, what was a moderately priced repair just became very expensive.
Third. This is a TOYOTA. 155K on a Toyota is practically LOW MILEAGE. I have nearly 330K on my Toyota, on the original engine and transmission. But I maintain my timing belt, and my shocks and other suspension parts. The motor uses no more oil today than it did at 150K - which is to say a little, but not much.
Fourth. The mechanic is a professional. You hire him (her) because he knows what he is doing - and knows more than you do. If you don't like what he says, get a 2nd opinion, but don't ignore him.
Fifth. If you don't like what the mechanic tells you, and you want other options, ask the mechanic "What is the WORST POSSIBLE scenario if I DON'T do as you recommend." Because, yes, sometimes you can get by putting a repair off. But it sounds to me like you are driving your Toyota into the ground at least 150K miles before it deserves it.
Sixth, all that I've said? You've heard other say it already in this thread, and some did it better than I. But, you are flippantly dismissing good advice.
So, I want to add this. Some 40 years ago a man gave me an example to learn from. If you have a good car, and you maintain it, the cost of maintaining it is ALWAYS lower than the cost of replacing it. Used or new makes no difference. With one exception: body cancer, aka rust. And then, only when the rust gets severe.
Toyotas are THE most reliable cars on the road. You have taken advantage of that fact, and you have been lucky. You are gambling with larger odds than you realize, and the risk is bigger than you admit. You are increasing the cost of maintenance when you do finally get it done, and you are increasing your own risk while driving in your daily routine. What was maintenance cost for one part may now be maintenance cost for two parts, or more.
But it seems you don't like the vehicle any more:
Quote:
Originally Posted by seenu
I bought this van used at 52k miles for $15k, I have gotten my money's worth out of it.
Ok - but if you don't like it, and you don't want to maintain it, why not just get rid of it and get something new?
Quote:
Originally Posted by seenu
Yes, I still want to take my chances on my timing belt. I will also take my chances with getting into the van, driving on streets and possibly getting involved in a fatal accident.
Ok, got it. But you know you are increasing the odds that you will be involved in said accident, right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by turf3
Well, there are people who think ahead and by preparing for unpleasant eventualities, avoid many (though not all) of them; and there are people who refuse to do so, and find themselves constantly beset by "unpredictable" or "accidental" misadventures that would have been predicted and guarded against by the first group. The latter group are what we call "improvident".
Unfortunately, haranguing and exhorting are unlikely to convert improvidence into foresight and preparation. Sometimes, but less often than one would like to think, life experience can do this.
So, since it seems that advice on what to do about your car that currently appears to be running OK but is way overdue on obvious preventive maintenance, will simply bounce off your mind without resulting in comprehension or a change of behavior, I think we can all say that we're done here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FullArmor
Then why bother to ask for advice at all? Seems like you're wasting your time and the time of anyone that bothered to offer that advice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by trlhiker
And just think, if you had really taken care of that vehicle, you would probably get another 100K on it if not more.
Likely more. But you don't like the vehicle, and you don't want to keep it. Or, you are looking for validation for how smart you are for getting lucky and avoiding some predictable maintenance costs of operating the vehicle. Which you won't get from anyone who knows a thing or two from mechanicking, or from life experience of having owned a bunch of cars.
You are driving the car into the ground. The results are predictable and obvious. You say you don't mind gambling, but you are increasing your personal risk, and you are doing so without increasing your payoff (saving money in the long run). Ok, got it.
Pulling the engine to repair timing belt sounds a bit familiar to me. Recently, a computer repair technician told me that he has to pull the whole computer apart to repair the computer fan!
Fans on computers are almost always easily accessible as in you can put hands on them immediately. Ones that are mounted in front of the front bays can sometimes be a little difficult especially if the backside of the case doesn't come off. Laptops are whole other story.
As far as struts go, get the van bouncing. How is up to you.... Once you stop bouncing it the van body should come up, stop at it's height and stay there. If it keeps on moving you need struts.
Struts aren't real expensive and not a difficult job especially if you get the ones are assembled with the spring but those will cost you a little more. You will need spring compression tool if they are not already assembled and DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP ONE. This is one tool you need to buy the expensive one, it's simply not wit the risk to save yourself a few bucks.
Word of warning, this isn't rocket science but understand exactly what you are doing for this job. That spring can easily kill you and that's not an exaggeration. I used the vice to hold the strut and had the spring pointed upwards. I also had some heavy duty nylon straps loosely attached to it with about a foot of play so it if it did let loose it hopefully wasn't going very far.
So, I don't wanna thread-jack...but if I can ask a question that is totally related to the OP????
Like I said in a previous post, my van is doing some serious rockinghorse-action when I hit a bump in the roadway. Shocks all the way around are gone. I want to replace a front or rear set at a time due to financial considerations........is it going to make a difference if I go with front or rear set first, as to how much of the rocking I eliminate??????
So, I don't wanna thread-jack...but if I can ask a question that is totally related to the OP????<>is it going to make a difference if I go with front or rear set first, as to how much of the rocking I eliminate??????
Rear shocks are easier to DIY since no load spring is involved. Front struts are more complicated but have more to do with the stability and safety of the vehicle. I'd suggest changing the rears first for the practice.
Rear shocks are easier to DIY since no load spring is involved. Front struts are more complicated but have more to do with the stability and safety of the vehicle. I'd suggest changing the rears first for the practice.
Thanks for the input.....which, front or rear, will cut-down on the rocking action the most?
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When to replace timing belt on Toyota Sienna?
Once you stop bouncing it the van body should come up, stop at it's height and stay there. If it keeps on moving you need struts.
