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Another consideration is wildfires. In the last few years, they've become the new normal throughout the west. Alaska has 'em too but some areas are more-or-less protected (from fire, or merely the smoke) by geography.
Smoke and fires are a problem here. I've had to evacuate once, and be ready to evacuate several times. Air conditions as well as damage to infrastructure (e.g. cutting off roads between towns, causing electric and internet cuts, etc.) are issues even when the fires don't hit homes/businesses. And we don't get the massive firefighting response the lower 48 does. It's worst in the interior/north are the only areas I'd say are really "protected" are the coastal rainforests and various islands.
The reason it's less in the news such that you can minimize it like this is that a)let's be real, the lower 48 does not care about us and b)we haven't sprawled to occupy every available square inch of land the way much of the lower 48 has, so fires are just less likely to hit as many homes/businesses.
Smoke and fires are a problem here. I've had to evacuate once, and be ready to evacuate several times. Air conditions as well as damage to infrastructure (e.g. cutting off roads between towns, causing electric and internet cuts, etc.) are issues even when the fires don't hit homes/businesses. And we don't get the massive firefighting response the lower 48 does. It's worst in the interior/north are the only areas I'd say are really "protected" are the coastal rainforests and various islands.
The reason it's less in the news such that you can minimize it like this is that a)let's be real, the lower 48 does not care about us and b)we haven't sprawled to occupy every available square inch of land the way much of the lower 48 has, so fires are just less likely to hit as many homes/businesses.
I usually pay close attention to fire fighting activities in Alaska. I think 1.5 million acres burned each year is the average. I would say the majority of the fires are kept in "watch" status because they are not threatening anything man made and left to burn naturally. The various agencies focus their efforts on fires that look to be heading towards a village, town, or important infrastructure like the pipeline.
That said, we still get some destructive fires at times - Sockeye fire (2015), Swan Lake fire (2019), Miller's Reach fire (1996). We have a house in the middle of Anchorage and I have photos of airtankers banking over our house to line up for a water dump on a fire burning just a few miles from our house. That was caused by a homeless camp in a park and the firefighters jumped on it and held it to a few acres. It was a really dry year that year and things could have escalated quickly.
Tahoe has unique challenges being in a state with 40M people and just 2.5 hrs from the 8M folks of the Bay Area.
Bullseye! That's our problem in a nutshell. And the traffic congestion is compounded by our mountain roads. Slow Vehicle Turnouts are plentiful, but few use them (and, to be fair, they aren't always plowed in a storm), so there's few safe passing opportunities. Consequently, parades of slow-moving traffic are routine year-round. [Didn't used to be the case, though.]
So, when folks speak of Alaska tourism (or maybe any tourist town), I wonder how it compares to Tahoe's 'perfect storm.' I often say, "if we were a plane trip away from SF, things would be totally different."
Not to harp on road congestion, but if it's any sort of barometer, I just discovered Google Maps offers a "Typical Traffic" option for its Traffic layer - sorta cool! It's specific to hours of the day and days of the week, but apparently incorporates data from the entire year. For example, Tahoe's summer gridlock at Sand Harbor is indicated clearly, even though there's no such congestion now (January).
Not to trivialize those directly impacted by fire, but most of the US west coast is affected by smoke every summer now. Until a few years ago, the wind would determine who got smoked out by the big fire du jour and for how long. But now, the wind determines which fire smokes you out now and which fire will smoke you out next week, and the week after that.... California is starting to appreciate and follow Nevada's lead on forest management, but it's gonna take 200 years of controlled burns to catch up. I don't know what the rest of the western states are doing, but they all logged (pardon the pun) a lot of fires last year.
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Originally Posted by rya700
Just curious if you have you considered Wyoming?
No, I haven't! Bits of Montana, yes, but not Wyoming. I'll check it out!!! Thanks!
I understand Yellowstone is overdue for some sort of mega-eruption, but if that's the place to be, let's enjoy every day and go in a blaze o' glory.
Bullseye! That's our problem in a nutshell. And the traffic congestion is compounded by our mountain roads. Slow Vehicle Turnouts are plentiful, but few use them (and, to be fair, they aren't always plowed in a storm), so there's few safe passing opportunities. Consequently, parades of slow-moving traffic are routine year-round. [Didn't used to be the case, though.]
So, when folks speak of Alaska tourism (or maybe any tourist town), I wonder how it compares to Tahoe's 'perfect storm.' I often say, "if we were a plane trip away from SF, things would be totally different."
Not to harp on road congestion, but if it's any sort of barometer, I just discovered Google Maps offers a "Typical Traffic" option for its Traffic layer - sorta cool! It's specific to hours of the day and days of the week, but apparently incorporates data from the entire year. For example, Tahoe's summer gridlock at Sand Harbor is indicated clearly, even though there's no such congestion now (January).
Tahoe is uniquely awful for the reasons you listed. Same for Yosemite. We gave up going to these places in the early 2010s because it just wasn't worth the frustration. I don't mind lots of people as long as they're respectful. But the Bay Area has a culture of consumerism and entitlement that gets brought to the mountains. Hikers blasting music. Camping where prohibited. Flying drones in Wilderness Areas. Constant yelling and generally being obnoxious. Leaving trash. Not doing the wilderness bathroom thing correctly. Oh, and folks setting up camp right on top of you -- if there are no reasonable campsites around spread out a little bit and be courteous to those around you even if this means you don't have the ideal view.
I don't need spectacular scenery to enjoy the outdoors. A few mountains and a river or lake are good enough for me. For a long time I had some spots near Sonora Pass and Ebbetts Pass that were relatively unknown and worked well. Then one year the weekend warrior crowd showed up. Guessing someone did a magazine write up or something. It was fun while it lasted.
The above wasn't the reason we got out of California, but it is a nice benefit of being in Idaho. Some trail heads get crowded during peak season, and highway 55 gets backed up coming into the Treasure Valley after a holiday weekend (meh, they can have it), but I have no problems finding less popular areas that are quiet and good enough for what I like. There's a remoteness in parts of WA, OR, ID, MT, WY, UT that largely doesn't exist in CA.
Last edited by AnythingOutdoors; 01-12-2023 at 05:50 PM..
Forgive me for the cliche-ness of this suggestion but would you consider Washington State?
This is EXACTY what I was thinking after strongly considering a move to Anchorage myself. I've been to Anchorage and various other parts of Alaska in winter and during summer, and I don't think Anchorage is an 'easy' place to live year round, despite having decent amenities and access to the rest of Alaska.
Washington is about as close as you can get to Alaska without actually having to put up with the hardships that come with its rough winters. I know places have more snow and worse weather in the lower 48 than Anchorage during the winter, but it's still no picnic. Maybe climate change will make this less of a problem in the near future, but for now, Alaska is still pretty remote/isolated and not for the uninitiated.
Bullseye! That's our problem in a nutshell. And the traffic congestion is compounded by our mountain roads. Slow Vehicle Turnouts are plentiful, but few use them (and, to be fair, they aren't always plowed in a storm), so there's few safe passing opportunities. Consequently, parades of slow-moving traffic are routine year-round. [Didn't used to be the case, though.]
So, when folks speak of Alaska tourism (or maybe any tourist town), I wonder how it compares to Tahoe's 'perfect storm.' I often say, "if we were a plane trip away from SF, things would be totally different."
While I don't have the statistics, I suspect what few localized traffic issues occur in Anchorage or the entire state aren't created by tourism. The majority of tourists aren't driving, they're using some sort of industry mass transit to get around. Cruise ships, ferries, commercial busses associated with cruise lines, jets, smaller chartered prop aircraft. They also don't drive to reach AK in the first place, they fly, ferry, or cruise in. That makes for much shorter vacations. Most of the state isn't accessible by road anyway. Basically, there are two roads in or out of the Anchorage bowl; one heading north and one south. An accident or road construction on either one can create hours of commuter gridlock regardless of season.
As for volcanoes we have them two and many of them are active. I can drive a short distance from the house and see clear views of at least 5. If any of them decides to blow its top, I'll have a front row seat. If I don't feel a seismic tremor once a month I start waiting for it.
Last edited by Parnassia; 01-13-2023 at 02:16 PM..
Our traffic problems are seldom related to volume of traffic (although regular traffic jams do happen sometimes for commuters from Anchorage bedroom communities to Anchorage during peak hours), but when they occur they're more paralyzing than a regular traffic jam. I think it's hard for people from out of state to visualize just how fragile the infrastructure is here. There's often only one road from a popular destination to another popular destination, no realistic alternative routes. If there is a rockslide, washout, avalanche, wildfire, etc. that overland connection is just gone until it's repaired. If there's a car crash, military exercise, semi jackknife, etc. that road is totally or partially blocked and can create a lengthy traffic backup quite quickly. Like, if you're going from Delta to Fairbanks and a bridge is out on the Richardson Highway, your drive has gone from a two hour drive to a twelve hour drive. If you're coming in from Girdwood to Anchorage and there's a gnarly accident along the Turnagain Arm (which happens regularly because it's a tricky drive) you may be stuck there for a good hour or hours.
Like I said, I love living here, but I don't think Alaska is the answer to the specific complaints the OP has about Reno life.
This video cracked me up. I've been in a few traffic backups on this stretch so the guy has my sympathy:
While I don't have the statistics, I suspect what few localized traffic issues occur in Anchorage or the entire state aren't created by tourism. The majority of tourists aren't driving, they're using some sort of industry mass transit to get around.
I mostly agree, except for a tourist in a rental RV. Doesn't take too many of these to completely mess up traffic on the Seward or Glenn Highways (north of Palmer).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frostnip
Our traffic problems are seldom related to volume of traffic (although regular traffic jams do happen sometimes for commuters from Anchorage bedroom communities to Anchorage during peak hours), but when they occur they're more paralyzing than a regular traffic jam. I think it's hard for people from out of state to visualize just how fragile the infrastructure is here. There's often only one road from a popular destination to another popular destination, no realistic alternative routes. If there is a rockslide, washout, avalanche, wildfire, etc. that overland connection is just gone until it's repaired. If there's a car crash, military exercise, semi jackknife, etc. that road is totally or partially blocked and can create a lengthy traffic backup quite quickly. Like, if you're going from Delta to Fairbanks and a bridge is out on the Richardson Highway, your drive has gone from a two hour drive to a twelve hour drive. If you're coming in from Girdwood to Anchorage and there's a gnarly accident along the Turnagain Arm (which happens regularly because it's a tricky drive) you may be stuck there for a good hour or hours.
Like I said, I love living here, but I don't think Alaska is the answer to the specific complaints the OP has about Reno life.
This video cracked me up. I've been in a few traffic backups on this stretch so the guy has my sympathy:
Totally agree with Frostnip. When something happens, there often is not an "alternate route." You can sit and wait or turnaround. Those are your only choices.
As for the video, that was during the repair of the Mirror Lake exit ramp off the Glenn. The roadbed failed and slid down the hill during the November 2018 7.1 magnitude earthquake. The contractor they hired to repair the ramp was the most incompetent road contractor I've ever witnessed. What should have been a 2 month job (if that) took 2 years and caused numerous traffic jams. They shouldn't even be allowed to drive on a road, let alone repair one.
I've been blessed to live at Lake Tahoe for 30 years - specifically, Incline Village, NV, 30 mins south of Reno. I adore Tahoe - the Sierra Mountains, the snow, and the outdoor activities. However, in the last five years, it has seen an influx of people - mostly Californians from LA and SF - that has changed everything. Courtesy and common sense have all but disappeared. Crime and road rage have skyrocketed. For example, a couple years ago, I was T-boned by a driver who - surprise, surprise - "never seen snow before / just got here from Los Angeles." Then, in 2019, my best friend was killed while crossing the street with his bicycle, by a drunk driver with a suspended license (for DUI). Daily pleasures, like hiking, mountain biking, snowshoeing, and AT skiing are no longer "get-away-from-it-all" solo activities. Crowds and the stench of marijuana (not judging) are inescapable. Confrontations with nasty (and just plain weird) people are a regular concern. Sorry to sound like a curmudgeon, but I pride myself in being courteous and friendly and miss the humble, laid-back community Reno/Tahoe once was.
So, I'm considering a move to Alaska (since every other mountain town from here to Canada is reporting similar difficulties). I've been three times and adore the geography and feel I'm well-prepared to handle the snow. However, I'm not prepared to go off-the-grid, or even "off-the-Costco." So, I'm looking at Anchorage suburbs, like Eagle River, Rabbit Creek, and Girdwood. In fact, on paper, Incline Village is to Reno as Girdwood is to Anchorage - a ski resort town 30 minutes from the conveniences of the city. And very similar populations. [Reno = 260k. Anchorage = 280k. Incline Village, 8k. Girdwood, 2k.]
So, here's my question: Is Anchorage like Reno of old (ca. 2016), where the people were mostly friendly and responsible - a "small-town" vibe? Or, is it like modern day Reno, with its big-city nuisances and attitudes? Rush hour congestion and 24-hour road rage? Are your hiking trails overrun on the weekends? Do you worry about crime? If that's the case, I'll push my real estate hunt further south, towards Moose Pass and Seward, provided there's some "grid." I work from home, so rural mountain living is an option and might even be preferable.
Please don't be shy. This is one discussion where rants are welcome. And the good stuff too! What's great about Anchorage, compared to other big cities? I appreciate your insights and hope to invite you to a housewarming party soon.
Great Article… I love to read your articles because your writing style is too good, its is very very helpful for all of us
But the Bay Area has a culture of consumerism and entitlement that gets brought to the mountains. Hikers blasting music. Camping where prohibited. Flying drones in Wilderness Areas. Constant yelling and generally being obnoxious. Leaving trash. Not doing the wilderness bathroom thing correctly. Oh, and folks setting up camp right on top of you...
YES! We suck in the Bay Area, not all of us, but a lot. Didn't used to be that way, but it now is and is one of many reasons I am looking to get out of this area and Alaska is just one of several areas I am considering moving to, so am enjoying this post. Best wishes with whatever you decide OP!
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