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Old 12-01-2010, 09:15 PM
 
Location: Mountains of middle TN
5,245 posts, read 16,425,771 times
Reputation: 6131

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Was the alternator but by the time we got to town it had killed the battery. Grrrr...... replaced the battery and made the rest of the trip to AZ. They tested it and confimed alternator, which I knew by that time. $200 for the alternator alone. I'll call the two other auto parts stores in town in the morning to see if any others are cheaper. I know nothing about cars, so I'll have to call the mechanic and see which of my arms he would like for the install. Looks like the beast will go to him on Friday. For pity sake...........

Thanks for the help all. I thought of a junkyard for a replacement but on line it looks like this is a common problem with the TB. Wonderful. So I figured going with new that's got a lifetime warranty is going to be my best bet. I hope I didn't get a problem vehicle!
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Old 12-02-2010, 12:12 AM
 
Location: Poway, CA
2,698 posts, read 12,170,887 times
Reputation: 2251
Well, glad you got to the bottom of it. Hopefully all the driving around won't kill the new battery as well. I'm sure your mechanic will know this, but the battery should really be charged back up before throwing on that new alternator.

Mike
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:19 AM
 
Location: Ohio
780 posts, read 2,924,591 times
Reputation: 638
Well, here is something that may help.

I don't believe that a battery dies on first deep discharge. I would try to charge it with a proper charger overnight.

Secondly, if you have Advance Auto Parts within reasonable driving distance, go to their website and order the alternator. Then use coupon code LC123 or ES123, it should give you $40 off.

If you still need battery, do a separate online purchase. Use either of the same coupon codes.

Hopefully that will lessen the financial strain.

I wish I was local to you, alternator swap is something I can do in 15 minutes (or even less)
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Old 12-03-2010, 12:42 PM
 
Location: Ohio
780 posts, read 2,924,591 times
Reputation: 638
Update: try BIG50 code for anything above $200.
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:31 PM
 
Location: Not far from Fairbanks, AK
20,292 posts, read 37,171,275 times
Reputation: 16397
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrs1885 View Post
Hubby drove all day; fine. I got in tonight and the battery light was on. Drive down the road and the info center said 'battery not charging'.

So, is it a battery problem or an alternator problem?
If the battery is not holding a charge, then you can't start the car unless you jump-start it. If the battery is dead, and you start the motor by jump starting, keep the motor running, and then go for a drive without any problem: the battery is bad. In this case, the alternator is providing the necessary power for all the motor controls and functions, lights, heater fan, and so forth.

You can have the alternator tested at NAPA, since this will be more expensive than the battery. If it checks good, then it's the battery.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:10 PM
 
Location: Mountains of middle TN
5,245 posts, read 16,425,771 times
Reputation: 6131
Thanks POS. Wish I'd checked back here first!!

Mechanic had me buy the alternator on his account which gave us a $25 discount at least. And he only charged $40 to install it and did it while we waited. All things considered, happy!!

Since then no problems. Phew!
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Old 05-16-2015, 01:40 PM
 
4 posts, read 4,621 times
Reputation: 10
I have a 02 Chevy trailblazer awd 4.2 vortex.
My problem is battery drain with no check engine lights on
New battery
New alternator
Still dies over nite I don't ever have in side twilight lights on Wat could it be
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Old 05-16-2015, 02:12 PM
 
4 posts, read 4,621 times
Reputation: 10
I just can't figure these newer cars out
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Old 05-16-2015, 02:14 PM
 
4 posts, read 4,621 times
Reputation: 10
I have a 02 Chevy trailblazer awd 4.2 vortex.
My problem is battery drain with no check engine lights on
New battery
New alternator
Still dies over nite I don't ever have in side twilight lights on Wat could it be
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:51 PM
 
Location: NJ & NV
5,771 posts, read 16,583,343 times
Reputation: 2475
I'm thinking the only practical way to get a handle on that one is to use a digital ammeter, that is usually a regular DMM or DVM in the AMPS or current position. Usually this means you move the lead to a different hole on the meter because current is measured in series. That means you don't measure across, you measure THROUGH the circuit.

This will tell you how many amps or milliamps the draw is and you can further try ro nail it dowm like that, maybe also by pulling use by fuse until the current draw goes down.
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