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Not sure why you think a 6.0 iron block will last any longer then a 6.0 aluminum block motor.... Atleast not in terms of mileage. Perhaps in terms of centuries of sitting in a junk yard.
392 Hemi swap FTL. Chrysler can keep their piece of **** ECM. Rather have something I can tune. LS or GTFO.
I stated from what I see come in the engine shop. Another reason to go with the iron block? Horsepower. 18-20 more HP with the iron block over the aluminum block. Why? Because the iron is far more stable, especially at higher RPM. And why would you use the Chrysler ecm or a gm ecm ? The aftermarket has plenty of far better tunable systems than either one. But if you really want it right, you would put a carb on it - Or dual carbs.
But the new hemi isn't a hemi. For some reason that bugs me. It seems like they are being deceptive.
It is true that it is more of a semi-hemi design, but it's proven to be better than a true bowl with valves in the head for a combustion chamber. But the Valve angles are the same as they did the experimental Hemi in 1963. The dual quench areas of the new "hemi" make more power, and the new Hemi out of the new style engines is the best one to build. You can get 790 hp out of it using factory block, crank and heads!
Another reason to go with the iron block? Horsepower. 18-20 more HP with the iron block over the aluminum block. Why? Because the iron is far more stable, especially at higher RPM.
More stable??? What kind of an answer is that? Not quite.
Iron blocks USED to make more power than aluminum blocks, note USED to. Newer aluminum blocks and billet blocks make the same amount as an iron block all day long.
The main reason iron blocks would make more hp was because of sealing issues around the deck of aluminum blocks, the repeated heating/cooling of the aluminum block would cause the iron liners to shift a bit, and under high compression, you'd get a bit of head lift or coolant push. This has largely been remedied with modern aluminum blocks, either by O-ringing, pinning, etc.
The only time an iron block proves better than aluminum is when running extremely high compression and horsepower levels (like 1000+). It maintains its shape a bit better than aluminum. Anything less than a full on drag strip car, an aluminum block is the way to go.
More stable??? What kind of an answer is that? Not quite.
Iron blocks USED to make more power than aluminum blocks, note USED to. Newer aluminum blocks and billet blocks make the same amount as an iron block all day long.
The main reason iron blocks would make more hp was because of sealing issues around the deck of aluminum blocks, the repeated heating/cooling of the aluminum block would cause the iron liners to shift a bit, and under high compression, you'd get a bit of head lift or coolant push. This has largely been remedied with modern aluminum blocks, either by O-ringing, pinning, etc.
The only time an iron block proves better than aluminum is when running extremely high compression and horsepower levels (like 1000+). It maintains its shape a bit better than aluminum. Anything less than a full on drag strip car, an aluminum block is the way to go.
The difference I have seen is 18-22 hp at only 549hp aluminum vs. 567hp iron block level. Other wise same pair of heads on both, same intake, throttlebody, same cam grind, headers etc. The more hp an engine makes, the more the difference. The only reason for an aluminum block is weight. And yes, I've built the 4000+hp aluminum block based race engines.
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