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Old 06-16-2015, 08:22 AM
 
23,177 posts, read 12,223,977 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sherifftruman View Post
What possible agenda would they have? It's not like they are saying never do anything but change all 4 to sell more tires? They sell 2 tires either way? i see no possible advantage for them direct the two tires to either axle and would love to hear a theory.
Most people want their two new tires on the front. When told they will be put on the rear many will go ahead and get 4 new tires so they can have new tires on the front like they wanted.
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:24 AM
 
23,177 posts, read 12,223,977 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollywood View Post
Like I said, one cherry picked scenario of driving in heavy rain and hydroplaning when 95% of your driving involves braking, accelerating, and steering on dry pavement. Where are the tests comparing stopping distances or steering ability?
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:26 AM
 
Location: Morrisville, NC
9,145 posts, read 14,768,819 times
Reputation: 9073
Because there is not nearly the difference between newer and older tires on dry pavement because there is no water to get in the way so the extra tread depth and siping is not really needed?
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Old 06-16-2015, 08:33 AM
 
Location: San Antonio, TX USA
5,251 posts, read 14,250,516 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oceangaia View Post
Like I said, one cherry picked scenario of driving in heavy rain and hydroplaning when 95% of your driving involves braking, accelerating, and steering on dry pavement. Where are the tests comparing stopping distances or steering ability?
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/...ay.jsp?ttid=91

Tread depths tested:
New (10/32")

  • Predictable dry road handling with good dry braking traction
  • Conclusion: While new tires can't match the dry road handling of worn and nearly worn out tires, they do come very close to equaling their ability to stop in dry conditions.
Worn (4/32")
  • What We Liked: More responsive dry road handling with good dry braking traction
  • Conclusion: While 4/32" deep treaded tires can't quite match the handling feel of nearly worn out tires, they can equal their ability to stop in dry conditions.
Nearly Worn Out (2/32")
  • What We Liked: More responsive dry road handling with good dry braking traction
  • Conclusion: Nearly worn out tires provide more responsive handling, but don't significantly exceed the stopping ability of new tires in dry conditions.
Since we normally test new tires with full tread depths, the braking forces developed by the new 10/32" deep Energy MXV4 Plus tires felt reminiscent of the full tread depth Grand Touring tires we'd experienced previously. The car pitched forward as the brakes were applied, quickly took a set and slowed the car with authority. After repeated runs we learned that the average stopping distance from 50 mph for the vehicle equipped with new tires was 89.3-feet.
However following the same procedures with the worn tires revealed a difference even before the panic stop braking commenced. Preparation for our braking test requires accelerating the vehicle from 40 mph to 50 mph while driving through a large, sweeping 325-foot diameter turn that moderately challenges the tires' steering response and handling. Because brake testing requires consistent repetition of driving technique, our tester was able to notice an improvement in steering responsiveness and cornering stability with the 4/32" deep tires. While this wasn't unexpected, the real question was how much of this enhanced handling feel would translate into shorter stopping distances. It didn't take long to get the answer. After repeated runs on the 4/32" deep tires, we learned that the average stopping distance from 50 mph was 87.8-feet, just 1.5-feet shorter than with the full tread depth tires.
When evaluations with the 2/32" deep tires commenced, our tester was looking to see if another incremental improvement in steering response and cornering stability would be felt. The 2/32" deep tires provided a very subtle handling improvement, yet after repeated runs, we learned that their average stopping distance from 50 mph was 87.8-feet, the same distance as the 4/32" deep tires.

Last edited by Me007gold; 06-16-2015 at 08:42 AM..
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:53 PM
 
Location: Myrtle Creek, Oregon
15,293 posts, read 17,687,736 times
Reputation: 25236
And next time get your tires rotated every 15,000 miles. If you buy your tires there, most tire shops will do this for free.
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Old 06-16-2015, 03:00 PM
 
Location: Morrisville, NC
9,145 posts, read 14,768,819 times
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Honestly if you start with all 4 new tires, I would rotate them way more often than that to promote even wear.

Or you could neve rotate them, buy new when your fronts wear out, move the rears up there and put the new ones on the back.
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Old 06-17-2015, 07:27 AM
 
Location: Hickory, NC
1,199 posts, read 1,553,504 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oceangaia View Post
Like I said, one cherry picked scenario of driving in heavy rain and hydroplaning when 95% of your driving involves braking, accelerating, and steering on dry pavement. Where are the tests comparing stopping distances or steering ability?
I'll take the troll bait.

In that case, why buy treaded tires? Just buy racing slicks and don't bother driving in the rain. Problem solved.
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Old 06-17-2015, 07:28 AM
 
Location: Hickory, NC
1,199 posts, read 1,553,504 times
Reputation: 1719
Quote:
Originally Posted by oceangaia View Post
Most people want their two new tires on the front. When told they will be put on the rear many will go ahead and get 4 new tires so they can have new tires on the front like they wanted.
Troll, most people that buy two tires do so because they can't afford 4 tires. If money were no object, they'd have 4 new tires.


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Old 06-17-2015, 03:08 PM
 
Location: Butler County Ohio and Winters in Florida
929 posts, read 2,724,186 times
Reputation: 635
Default Tires

Quote:
Originally Posted by KittenSparkles View Post
My trusty mechanic has told me that my two front tires need to be replaced, but the back two are good.

I know that they will move the back two to the front, and put the new ones on the back.

My questions:

1. Do the new ones need to be the same brand/style as the two that are on there?

2. What other costs to expect aside from the tires when I take it in to get the two new ones put on

3. Balance and alignment- is that done at the tire shop, or will I have to take it somewhere else for that? I believe I had the alignment done last year when the tie rods were replaced, but I'm not sure if that has to be done again when there are new tires?

These may sound stupid... but I had a great mechanic for many years who just took care of all of this for me; I've since moved and my new mechanic doesn't do tire stuff.

I am trying to become informed to help lessen the chance that the tire shop tries to sell me services that I don't need. As a female who is not an expert on cars, I have experienced being blatantly lied to in situations like this in the past.

TIA
Have him show you why you need tires. If they are worn, you probably do need tires.
If this shop is the shop you use, let them do everything. Buy the tires from them, get your oil changes there etc... loyalty works both ways. If you give them ALL your work, they usually work hard to keep you happy and cut you breaks on other things.
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Old 06-18-2015, 04:50 PM
 
Location: in my mind
5,333 posts, read 8,546,864 times
Reputation: 11130
Ok.... an UPDATE ....

Today I got two new tires (same brand/style as the other two), and the shop put them on the back. They also swapped the back (now front) tires from left to right, balanced, etc.

I drove home, and when I was going 60mph or higher, the car pulls just slightly to the right.

I got home, called the alignment shop where I had the alignment done last year, and told him about it. He said its a tire pull and I need to go back to the tire shop and tell them to move the new ones to the front!! (it made me think about this thread) My old tires are fine and barely worn, so he didn't think I should buy two more tires.

OMG

I am so confused now.....
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