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Totally understand this for a dually as it is the normal setup, but for a single wheel floater, unnecessary.
Has been accomplished by other mfg's without having to pull axle and hubs.
So I don't have to remove the drum to replace the brake wheel cylinder?
Another thing is that when I removed the axle (just a little bit) their was some rubber on the ends of each bolt, it crumbled off sort of. Do I have to put more of this rubber back on?
So I don't have to remove the drum to replace the brake wheel cylinder?
Another thing is that when I removed the axle (just a little bit) their was some rubber on the ends of each bolt, it crumbled off sort of. Do I have to put more of this rubber back on?
Ah... much older than I thought. If you have what is seen in the pic John posted, then yes, you will need to remove axle, hub and drum to get to the wheel cylinder. That being said, once you get to the cylinder I still don't think its worth the trouble trying to repair it, just replace.
You have a full floating axle. What that means is the axle itself is not carrying the weight of the truck and load. The axle housing is carrying the load. With this axle, you have 2 bearings, an inner and an outer bearing. With a standard or half floating axle, you only have one bearing supporting the load and the rotational forces of the engine. It wears a lot of hats. What you have is not new technology obviously and it's still used on heavier equipment. The bearings ride in the oil, not grease and will last almost forever in you application. Do not attempt to fix the current cylinder- just replace it. Yes, the brake drum has to come off. Good news, there's no seals to screw up- it's a simple pull the drum off. The seal for the axle is on the end of the axle. This must be sealed tight when reinstalling. If you can't find the right gasket, form-a-gasket will work. When installing the bolts to put the axle back in, make sure to use either the non drying form a gasket on the bolt heads or use Lok-tite to keep the bolts from backing out. Once you have the unit back together, you have a bolt on the back of the rear gear case (the fat thing in the middle). That's the fill and check hole. You'll put 70-140 oil in there until it runs out then quickly replace the bolt. Considering the age of the unit. I'd try to get as much out as possible while you're at it and consider it a partial fluid change. You're looking for an axle fluid with a high content of moly. It has 2 nasty characteristics. It stinks from the sulfur in it and it's black, like ink. If it's not black and smells like crap,literally, it's not the right fluid.
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