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Your info is false, one of my MBs has 70K miles with original rotors and pads. I assume it’s how one drivers.
You have a C43 with 70,000 miles on the original rotors and pads? What is the measured thickness of the rotors (or since you are lucky enough to not need to measure them, what is the approximate pad life?) No one else on any of the forums has been able to get anywhere close to that, I'm certain it is not 'how one drives', and guess you don't have a C43.
The C43 has high performance rotors and pads, which are fabulous for braking (world class stopping distances) but terrible for wear and dust. When i reference changing pads before 30,0000 miles and rotors probably making it a little pass 30k I was referring to the C43, which obviously does not apply to anything that is not a C43, Mercedes or not.
In terms of my general Mercedes statement of rotors who sacrifice their lives and should be changed with the pads, that is the general Mercedes philosophy. Since you have original for both, you haven't hit that yet. The service manuals do (luckily) give minimum thickness for rotors and don't just blanketly say the rotors must be changed, but the majority of dealers will tell you to change them with the pads and unless you compare measurements to the service manual and call BS on them, you'll be getting them changed.
Since I do my own, I'm able to make my own call, and measured the rotors and pads specifically, and am very aware of the life, hence my note on how long they last (in a C43).
I would look at the Mercedes and BMW as they tend to handle very well. The Alfa is very fun to drive, though I have not driven one in winter, but my guess is that it's not going to be as solid as the Mercedes or BMW. I have gotten several Infiniti Q50 rentals in recent weeks, both AWD and RWD. I find that it handles well, even with stock rental car tires, but it lags in comparison to Mercedes, BMW, and Jaguar in terms of interior appointments and finish.
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All the world's a stage, and all the men and women merely players: they have their exits and their entrances; and one man in his time plays many parts, his acts being seven ages.
~William Shakespeare (As You Like It Act II, Scene VII)
I have a 340i MSport w/Track package and adaptive suspension and all the other desirable bits currently. I had several Audi S4s prior. The 340 gets great gas mileage, is comfortable and sounds nice, and it’s a riot to drive at the limit. Anything less than spirited though and it’s woefully disengaged from the driver. There’s no steering feel, throttle response is awful and it’s just generally a boring car.
The good news is ALL my maintenance is taken care of during the lease and this car leases stupidly well, meaning you can probably get one for much less than the others even at a higher MSRP. If I had to do it all over again I’d get a track package 330i over the 340. It’s just better in everyday driving.
This is a cheap to operate bridge car for me and the lease is up in 2019. I’ll be replacing it with an S5 Sportback or a Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. I can’t wait.
Alfa Romeo Giulia Q4
Infiniti Q50/60 400 Red Sport
Mercedes C43
BMW 340i/440i
Jaguar XF 35t or XE 35t
and if I can find a good lease on an F-type S with AWD I would go for that. THat seems like a stretch though was trying to keep payments under $600. All of these cars have AWD but do they come with summer or all season tires from factory? I would want one with good tires that can last hopefully 30k+ miles (was going to lease). I had originally thought I wanted a pure sports car with a beater for bad weather but want something I can drive all the time and have the only thing to worry about be payments. My commute is also shortening from 30 miles one way to about 8 soon making leasing more attractive.
I have leased 4 BMWs in a row. 3 series coupe twice, then 5 series, then 4 series gran coupe. All have been X drive, BMW's all wheel drive and drove without issue in the snow. All came with all season run flat tires, which were adequate for the snow, but on the first I switched to winter tires and they were great but it was definitely overkill.
I had an Infiniti G37 (old model #) leased for the spouse and it was pretty meh. Terrible on gas and died at 2 years, flatbedded to dealer then fixed. Couldn't wait to turn it in.
You have a C43 with 70,000 miles on the original rotors and pads? What is the measured thickness of the rotors (or since you are lucky enough to not need to measure them, what is the approximate pad life?) No one else on any of the forums has been able to get anywhere close to that, I'm certain it is not 'how one drives', and guess you don't have a C43.
The C43 has high performance rotors and pads, which are fabulous for braking (world class stopping distances) but terrible for wear and dust. When i reference changing pads before 30,0000 miles and rotors probably making it a little pass 30k I was referring to the C43, which obviously does not apply to anything that is not a C43, Mercedes or not.
In terms of my general Mercedes statement of rotors who sacrifice their lives and should be changed with the pads, that is the general Mercedes philosophy. Since you have original for both, you haven't hit that yet. The service manuals do (luckily) give minimum thickness for rotors and don't just blanketly say the rotors must be changed, but the majority of dealers will tell you to change them with the pads and unless you compare measurements to the service manual and call BS on them, you'll be getting them changed.
Since I do my own, I'm able to make my own call, and measured the rotors and pads specifically, and am very aware of the life, hence my note on how long they last (in a C43).
I have a new C63s with only 6000. But I also have an E430 with about 70K.
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