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Old 01-16-2012, 05:17 PM
 
Location: Eastern Washington
13,388 posts, read 42,701,155 times
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I think only early Powerglides had a rear pump such that you could push-start them, back in the 50's. You need a push vehicle or maybe any good NFL defensive line could push the car fast enough to get the rear pump up to pressure such that you get a bump start.

Any car with fuel injection you have to have enough power from the battery to at least run the fuel pump, if you are push-starting a manual.

Back in the day of carbs, or if like me you spend some time living in the past and still have some rigs with carburators - yeah, these you can roll-start or push start, essentially just like a lawnmower or chainsaw...
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Old 07-04-2017, 10:46 AM
 
Location: Northern Wisconsin
4,198 posts, read 2,023,315 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melinuxfool View Post
Does anyone even offer a stick shift on a heavy duty pickup truck these days?

It seems that the stick shift is being relegated to either small, compact cars, light duty trucks, or cars that the average Joe cannot afford.

Personally, I hate it. I've never liked automatic transmissions. Hate every boring minute of driving one, hate them in the hilly country, and especially when pulling any sort of a load. They always feel gutless and never seem to be in the right gear.

They break down more often, and cost a boatload more to repair and maintain than manual transmissions as well. Perhaps why many of the car companies are no longer offering you the choice. After all, they make money on those repairs!
Only the Ram trucks still offer it with a 6-speed transmission. Fords and Chevrolets and GMCs no longer offer manual transmissions for their heavy duty pickups.
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Old 07-05-2017, 10:22 AM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
20,773 posts, read 37,441,293 times
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We recently swapped in a 13 spd Roadranger to a CTD 1T. Very handy for towing HEAVY (30,000#+) in mtns. (has Exhaust brake as well)

Automatic makes too much heat, and even with locking TC, will not slow you enough for downhill switchbacks and steep inclines on gravel roads.
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Old 07-05-2017, 12:41 PM
 
Location: Northridge/Porter Ranch, Calif.
22,151 posts, read 26,606,075 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3 Mitch View Post
I think only early Powerglides had a rear pump such that you could push-start them, back in the 50's. You need a push vehicle or maybe any good NFL defensive line could push the car fast enough to get the rear pump up to pressure such that you get a bump start.

Any car with fuel injection you have to have enough power from the battery to at least run the fuel pump, if you are push-starting a manual.

Back in the day of carbs, or if like me you spend some time living in the past and still have some rigs with carburators - yeah, these you can roll-start or push start, essentially just like a lawnmower or chainsaw...
The Mopar Torqueflite, up to and including the 1965 model year, could be push-started.
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Old 07-08-2017, 12:50 PM
 
Location: Billings, MT
8,988 posts, read 7,076,226 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleet View Post
The Mopar Torqueflite, up to and including the 1965 model year, could be push-started.
Many automatic transmissions in the "early years" (1940 to the mid '60s) had a rear pump, and could be pushed or towed to start them. They had to get up to about 30 to 35 MPH, IIRC, in Neutral, then dropped into Drive.
The GM Hydra-matic, Powerglide, and Dyna-flow; FOMOCO Ford-o-matic & Merc-o-matic; AMC Flash-o-matic; Mopar 727 and 904; etc. IIRC, all of them could be push or tow started.

The early mechanical fuel injection did not need electrical power to operate.
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Old 07-08-2017, 01:50 PM
 
Location: New Jersey
6,036 posts, read 6,076,947 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StealthRabbit View Post
We recently swapped in a 13 spd Roadranger to a CTD 1T. Very handy for towing HEAVY (30,000#+) in mtns. (has Exhaust brake as well)

Automatic makes too much heat, and even with locking TC, will not slow you enough for downhill switchbacks and steep inclines on gravel roads.
How would the splitter and range selector work on a truck with no air?
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Old 07-08-2017, 03:07 PM
 
Location: We_tside PNW (Columbia Gorge) / CO / SA TX / Thailand
20,773 posts, read 37,441,293 times
Reputation: 20763
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanAdventurer View Post
How would the splitter and range selector work on a truck with no air?
Added electric air pump (years ago for dump controls / tailgate and exhaust brake). Use the (custom) tube front bumper as air tank.

Had to do a 3" cab lift to stuff the W-I-D-E countershaft tranny under the cab.
My next conversion will just use a Class 5-6 chassis (F750 - 850) with a CTD and SAE bellhousing / Clutch / starter already in correct orientation. Hopefully the Chassis will have air brakes (Which I prefer for mtns and heavy towing) ~ 35,000# - 40,000# is too heavy for a 1T dually. (to be considered very SAFE). I use my Class 8's when needed, but they are tough to squeeze into some of the tight forest jobs I do.

the main headache... DOT "Butcher". they are happy writing $1,000 tickets all day, or tagging you "Out-Of-Service". They also ALWAYS dip your tanks (if pickup, or commercial). They wrote up a "balewagon" a few yrs ago for using red Dye for 'On-Road-Use'. <1mi field to farm.
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