1990 Suburban making click clack noise after startup. (valve, truck, mileage)
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When I start it up in the morning it makes a click clackedy noise but after 2 or 3 minutes, it goes away.
Also after like 5 minutes when I come out somewhere like a store and get back in the trcuck and start it ip again, the noise ia not there.
I live in New Orleans btw.
I usually keep my oil change every 3 to 4000 miles.
I use 10w40 and have been using it ever since July of last year since I had the motor from a 1992 Silverado put in it. The engine at first had 74000 miles on it, not it has over 101000 miles.
There's SIX page letter from GM explaining why it's "normal". What it is, it's infamous "morning sickness". Piston slap. Cylinder bores are oblong from the factory, resulting in piston slapping the walls until metal expands and gap closes. Ain't sheat you can do about it. I tried.
Mine lasts for about 30 seconds and goes away. The only real way to fix it is to pull engine out, give it to a pro shop, let them re-bore and re-set pistons right. Which will cost you more than entire truck is worth, as you can pick them 90s trucks for peanuts on craigslist.
Just live with it, keep truck warm and dry. Maybe have engine warmer installed, to keep metal from shrinking. I know from GM forums that folks drive into 300 000 miles with that slap. It's GM truck - proudly announces to the hood its arrival with clunks and clacks.
There's SIX page letter from GM explaining why it's "normal". What it is, it's infamous "morning sickness". Piston slap. Cylinder bores are oblong from the factory, resulting in piston slapping the walls until metal expands and gap closes. Ain't sheat you can do about it. I tried.
Mine lasts for about 30 seconds and goes away. The only real way to fix it is to pull engine out, give it to a pro shop, let them re-bore and re-set pistons right. Which will cost you more than entire truck is worth, as you can pick them 90s trucks for peanuts on craigslist.
Just live with it, keep truck warm and dry. Maybe have engine warmer installed, to keep metal from shrinking. I know from GM forums that folks drive into 300 000 miles with that slap. It's GM truck - proudly announces to the hood its arrival with clunks and clacks.
There's SIX page letter from GM explaining why it's "normal". What it is, it's infamous "morning sickness". Piston slap. Cylinder bores are oblong from the factory, resulting in piston slapping the walls until metal expands and gap closes. Ain't sheat you can do about it. I tried.
Mine lasts for about 30 seconds and goes away. The only real way to fix it is to pull engine out, give it to a pro shop, let them re-bore and re-set pistons right. Which will cost you more than entire truck is worth, as you can pick them 90s trucks for peanuts on craigslist.
Just live with it, keep truck warm and dry. Maybe have engine warmer installed, to keep metal from shrinking. I know from GM forums that folks drive into 300 000 miles with that slap. It's GM truck - proudly announces to the hood its arrival with clunks and clacks.
Also, how much do you think I can pick a used 350 V8 up on craigslist for?
No. Oil changes produced no effect on the noise. I have 5.3L Vortec, and it also sort of "started". I have great pressure, all the way up to 60 on cold.
But to keep you sleeping well, you can rent pressure tester and hook it up to say where oil sensor is. Test pressure.
I Seafoamed mine, used various oils, it goes down a little bit after oil changes, but then goes back to where it normally is. Absolutely relevant to cold. The colder the worse.
And, truly, it may not be slap in your case, it may be worn out rockers or lifters. What you can do, is to run can or 2 of Seafoam through the oil, for about 500 miles or so. It opens passages and un-stick lifters. No harm, had it done many times.
As of how much you can find engine for... That's a tough one. If you want to go that far, I'd rather buy a new block and then replace the rest of it off the old engine. But why? It's 1990 truck. They cost pennies on craigslist. You can always find a decent one to kill, for less than what repairs will cost you. Auctions. 3-400 bucks...
Well, I guess, I have to take it back. Quick craigslist scope for your area shows that those are apparently in great value in New Orleans. $10 000 for 1990 one? Unbelievable. They run north of $2 000 here. So, yeah, it may make sense to fix one then. But I would never buy an engine off c-list. Long block new is what, $1200 or so?
Look at this: 25. Chevrolet "small block" V8 Engines
A 350 Chevy engine does not, and should not, normally make any such noise on start-up. Period. Obviously there is something wrong.
If it's a "tick tick tick" that goes away within a few seconds, that is probably one of your lifters bleeding down when the truck sets for a long period of time. Years ago, I had an '89 Chevy truck that would do that. I added some Lucas Oil Stabilizer, and it helped a lot.
I fear that you either have a piston wrist-pin that is loose, or a rod bearing that has worn enough to do this. Neither problem has a cheap solution.
Out of curiosity, does your oil pressure drop dramatically when the engine is at operating temperature - and by that I mean it drops to less than half what it runs cold? If so, it's very likely due to excess bearing wear.
The bottom line is that you're probably looking at some serious engine work. Whether you're better off with a used engine, or having your current engine rebuilt, depends on a lot of factors.
Are you using a Fram oil filter? If so, replace the filter with a Wix, Purolator, or Napa Silver/Gold. Fram is known for defective anti-drainback (check) valves.
When that check valve is bad, the oil in the stopped engine slowly leaks backwards through the filter down to the pan after the engine is turned off. When the engine is restarted, the oil passages must refill before the oil can start lubricating the parts properly, which can result in excess noise for a few seconds.
I've solved a couple of "engine knocks on start-up" problems by changing the oil filter from Fram to a better quality brand.
Otherwise, since there's nothing you can do about it cheaply, and since so many of these trucks apparently run fine for years and years with this problem, you can just probably ignore it unless it suddenly gets much worse.
There's SIX page letter from GM explaining why it's "normal". What it is, it's infamous "morning sickness". Piston slap. Cylinder bores are oblong from the factory, resulting in piston slapping the walls until metal expands and gap closes. Ain't sheat you can do about it. I tried.
Mine lasts for about 30 seconds and goes away. The only real way to fix it is to pull engine out, give it to a pro shop, let them re-bore and re-set pistons right. Which will cost you more than entire truck is worth, as you can pick them 90s trucks for peanuts on craigslist.
Just live with it, keep truck warm and dry. Maybe have engine warmer installed, to keep metal from shrinking. I know from GM forums that folks drive into 300 000 miles with that slap. It's GM truck - proudly announces to the hood its arrival with clunks and clacks.
My 93 suburban with a 350 cu in engine had this morning tick tick. The dealer changed the mains and rod bearings to overside and the tick tick is gone.
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